Genuine leather ≠ good quality leather

Natalia Romanova
GLAMI.eco
Published in
4 min readMar 18, 2020

Not everything made from real leather has the same quality. We want to tell you about the differences between modern grades of leather and break the myth of “genuine leather” being synonymous with good quality.

The animal hide can be very thick — up to 1 cm. It is too much for the majority of goods so hide is usually split into top and bottom layers. The division into 4 grades of leather is based on the fact which layer is used and how it is processed:

  • Full grain leather
  • Top grain leather
  • Split leather (sometimes called “Genuine Leather”)
  • Bonded leather
Top layer (full grain and top grain leather) is considered high quality leather, while bottom one (split leather) has lower quality. Bonded leather is not on the picture — you will find out why.

Full Grain Leather

Full grain comes from the very top layer and is considered the highest quality. It is not going through harsh processing so it keeps all different traces on the surface such as scars, blemishes, which gives it that unique special look.

It is very durable since fibers are stable due to the protective upper layer of skin, which has not been removed. All the pores are open, which makes it also breathable and defines its ability to age beautifully — by absorbing oils during use it will develop a beautiful look of older leather called patina.

At the same time, it makes it sensitive to water and stains so it is not commonly used for jackets, car seats and many other items that have higher chances to interact with water.

Top Grain Leather

Every piece from full grain leather mentioned before is unique because of imperfections on its surface. This does not work for companies that require a consistent look for their products. Therefore leather is corrected and polished to have no variations in the grain and coloring.

Corrected top grain leather is not breathable and will gradually get scratched and look slightly worse with time. This is because the very top thin layer is gone and the leather cannot absorb oils which make full grain leather so durable. However, it makes this type of leather more resistant to water and stains. You will notice raindrops just rolling down.

Most of the luxury fashion leather items are made from this type of leather because of the flawless surface and good durability.

Split Leather

What happens to the bottom part of the leather after it is split into layers? Because it doesn’t have a grain on top, this bottom layer is usually heavily coated with a polymer and embossed with leather structure.

This type of leather is called split leather, and right now it is very popular as a cheaper option to produce since it is basically made from leather leftovers. Of course, it influences the quality — plastic on the top tends to crack and peel. Also, it is not breathable and not biodegradable.

GENUINE LEATHER
To make split leather more attractive to the user, marketing gurus came up with the word GENUINE that does not have a strict definition and can be applied to everything that contains leather. It was such a successful campaign that at first glance the word ‘genuine’ gives you the impression of very high quality. Not at all. The leather called “genuine” sometimes even feels and smells like plastic, because the plastic coat on top can be as thick as the leather itself.

Bonded leather

Bonded leather is basically leather dust and small pieces that are mixed with vinyl and polyurethane. That’s why you could not find it on the picture with layers. This type of “leather” can contain as little as 20% of actual leather. It is very cheap and is used in inexpensive furniture lining and accessories. It has practically no differences in comparison with faux leather.

From one point it can be eco friendly because it uses the resources that otherwise would be thrown away. But at the same time, bonded leather will degrade in quality and be thrown away very fast anyway, creating a pile of plastic garbage.

Conclusion

Naturally, these types of leather differ in terms of price. Make your choice based on your budget, but consider asking questions about the type of leather you are buying to avoid being disappointed with its quality. And if possible I recommend investing in one good quality item instead of three cheaper ones — you will enjoy wearing it more and will produce less waste. Good for you and the planet!

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Natalia Romanova
GLAMI.eco

Sustainability enthusiast, second hand fashion lover and brand manager of sustainable fashion search engine GLAMI.eco