An Insider’s Look at the Sullivan Catskills: Foraging, New York Wheat, and the Flavors of the Region

Global Plates: The People We Meet, The Food They Eat

Who: Bob Eckert, owner of Northern Farmhouse Pasta
Recipe: Oxtail Ragu
Where: Roscoe, New York
Visit: Sullivan Catskills

Originally published at An Insider’s Look at the Sullivan Catskills: Foraging, New York Wheat, and the Flavors of the Region — Global Journeys with Jill Dutton

Just about a two-hour drive from New York City, the enchanting landscapes of the Sullivan Catskills awaits. This hidden gem in the heart of New York State is a captivating region that offers travelers solace as well as an immersion in nature.

Settled in Roscoe, NY, you’ll find Northern Farmhouse Pasta, and its owners, Jen and Bob Eckert. Bob says of the various cities in the Sullivan Catskills:

“Sullivan County is a book, and each of its villages is a chapter — each unique, and filled with their own stories.”

Known as the U.S. origination of fly fishing, the area is filled with unspoiled lakes, expansive forests, and scenic mountains.

Bob Eckert, originally from Queens, New York, found his calling in the culinary world after a successful career in construction. With a passion for pasta-making, Bob and his wife Jen established Northern Farmhouse Pasta in 2011, initially as a wholesale pasta business. In 2015, they expanded their venture to include a restaurant, where they serve Italian dishes using locally sourced ingredients.

Embracing Locally Sourced Ingredients

Central to Northern Farmhouse Pasta’s philosophy is the use of 100% locally grown wheat in their pasta. Bucking the trend of conventional pasta, Bob Eckert recognized the potential of using wheat that thrives in the region. Partnering with farmers in the Finger Lakes area, they source organic grains that are milled to order, ensuring freshness and quality.

One of the highlights of Bob Eckert’s culinary journey is foraging for unique ingredients in the Sullivan Catskills. Each season brings a bounty of wild produce, such as ramps, watercress, and mushrooms. From the pungent flavors of wild ramps to the earthy richness of porcini mushrooms, these hyper-local ingredients find their way into Northern Farmhouse Pasta’s delectable dishes.

While incorporating locally sourced ingredients presents its challenges, Bob Eckert is committed to educating diners about the value and flavor of these regional treasures. Engaging with the local farming community, Bob overcomes obstacles such as limited processing facilities and the need for close collaboration with farmers. Through their efforts, Northern Farmhouse Pasta brings the farm-to-table experience to the Sullivan Catskills.

Northern Farmhouse Pasta serves as a gateway to the captivating Sullivan Catskills. Visitors are encouraged to explore the various towns and immerse themselves in the local culture and stories. With a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere, the region offers a multitude of experiences, from outdoor adventures to unique dining options.

Visiting the Sullivan Catskills

According to Bob, any season is a great time to visit. Come during the spring and summer months for fishing and hiking; enjoy the brilliant foliage during a fall trip; or, indulge in the quiet solitude of a winter visit to the area.

Bob’s tips for a visit:

• Don’t over-plan. Go with the flow, and engage locals for recommendations of hidden gems.
• Seek local experiences. Visit farmer’s markets, farm-to-table restaurants, and discover the region’s culinary offerings.
• Try something new. Be open to sampling different flavors, whether it’s foraged foods incorporated into a menu or locally-sourced produce, savor the flavors of the area.

The Sullivan Catskills and Bob Eckert’s Northern Farmhouse Pasta embody the spirit of embracing nature, local ingredients, and authentic culinary experiences. By foraging for ingredients and showcasing the region’s flavors, Bob Eckert invites travelers to unravel the tapestry of the Sullivan Catskills one delicious bite at a time.

Oxtail Ragu

During a visit to Northern Farmhouse Pasta, I was enamored with the hearty and savory pasta dishes made exclusively with New York wheat. I dined on the Oxtail Ragu, a dish that took me back to childhood memories of our father slow-cooking an Oxtail Stew for Sunday dinner.

When asked how Bob came upon using oxtails in his sauce, he replied, “We had a lot of Spanish restaurants where I grew up in Queens, and you would go in and get an oxtail stew with some rice. I always loved it, and so then I started working with it. We were almost emulating the Spanish versions that I had as a kid, but then, I learned more about putting it into a Ragu. And what I learned was that the fattiness — the fat on an oxtail — just melts really quickly and coats everything. It adds this incredible flavor. And we get it from local farmers, which really makes us happy.”

Bob Eckert was gracious enough to share his delicious recipe.

Northern Farmhouse Pasta — Oxtail Ragu Recipe

4 pounds of oxtail (osso buco meat cuts can work as well)

Equal amounts of celery, carrot, and onion (approx 12 ounces)

48 oz. of whole pear tomatoes blended up

4 bay leaves

1 tsp. of chile flakes; salt & pepper to your liking

Put all the above ingredients into a pot and cook for at least 3 hrs on low heat and stir every once in a while.

The meat should be falling off the bone….then it is done.

Plate with your favorite pasta, add a little olive oil, and fresh parsley, and grate some pecorino romano over the top.

Enjoy!

Plan Your Trip:

Follow this itinerary for suggestions that include where to stay, what to eat, and places to discover in the area including a distillery, a brewery, and a cidery.

This article was written using excerpts from the Global Journeys with Jill Dutton podcast, Episode 2, Unearthing the Flavors of the Sullivan Catskills. Listen to the full episode, and past episodes, here. Follow Jill’s travels at Global Journeys with Jill Dutton