Abyaneh. An Eternity of Red Clay
Authentic Persian village which exists for about 2000 years
One of the most exciting places to visit in Iran is the ethnic village of Abyaneh, located about 90 km from Kashan city. It’s one of the oldest settlements in the country, about 2000 years old. By its example, it’s possible to see how Persian villages looked in the middle ages. Abyaneh is included in all guides and routes, which could spoil its virgin atmosphere. But in covid times, its popularity isn’t in focus.
The village’s highlight is red clay. Most of the houses are built of it. Although they are ordinary village huts, you can’t find even two the same. And doors or portals decorations are worthy of real palaces. Brick houses were built in the same vein and color.
Ditches are hollowed out directly in the roads. Some of them were full of water with the same sandy color.
Abyaneh is located on a dead-end road 2100 meters above sea level. For a long time, it remained a bastion of Zoroastrians who escaped from Muslims’ chase in such hard-to-reach places. Also, I felt the altitude on my skin: on the April morning, it was pretty cold. And when trees had already blossomed in the lowland, only the first blooms had appeared here.
Only about 300 people live in the village, mostly the older generation. Young people go to big cities leaving houses of their ancestry or using them as summer cottages.
We’re leaving the Abyaneh streets for last, but for now, let’s go on the opposite hill to see the village panorama.
A ruin of a middle-aged fortress is located on the hill. Around it, locals made cellars and panels for cattle. All this is abandoned now.
As we were climbing, we could see the views we came for. All the village was out in the open from here.
And the same in detail. Due to relief, upper streets can be located on the roofs of lower streets. A typical turquoise mosque dome is present too.
We could see one more fortification at the hill against us. On Wikimapia, it’s briefly marked as “castle” in Persian. I saw information that Abyaneh had three castles but also information that this all was just cowsheds.
From all points of the compass, the village is surrounded by mountains and valleys, which are stunning, whatever the season.
The fortress towers nicely complement the landscape.
After the hill visit, we returned to get lost in the village streets.
These portals are entrances to water tanks:
The huts’ walls close up:
All is RED.
Some details are shockingly exquisite.
Of course, the village has its hammam. Due to the height differences, the fortress is visible from some points. On the highest hills above it, snow remained.
We found a surprisingly decent coffee in one of the local souvenir shops.
Meanwhile, peasants live their lives. One of Abyaneh’s highlights is bright-flowered women’s scarves. They are very contrasting compared to black hijabs worn in cities. These scarves are also popular among young girls.
And it’s possible to buy such a scarf, of course. At that moment, foreign travelers were almost absent in Iran, but domestic tourism is very cultivated here.
In contrast to women, men dressed in black. They often wear some wide harem pants instead of ordinary pants.
I shouldn’t have taken this photo. I hid behind the bus window, but women exposed me and began resenting me. But I couldn’t resist.
Soon we were rushing to Isfahan. Dry and harsh Persian mountains unrelentingly accompanied us.
