Coffee, Love, and Adventure: Exploring Bali’s Coffee Plantation
Discover the art of coffee-making, encounter the unique luwak coffee process, and savor the sweetness of black Balinese bee honey
Together, with my wife, we embarked on a journey where the simplicity of a small scooter became a chariot of love, carrying us through the beauty of Bali’s landscapes and the warmth of shared moments. As we drove next to the rice terrace, something grabbed our attention. On the side road, a big wooden board was planted where we could see written in beautiful words: Kumulilir Coffee plantation.
We entered the place and a young lady welcomed us with a smile that reflected the kindness and hospitality of the Balinese people. With gentle words, she said:
“Welcome to Kumulilir Coffee plantation, we are happy to have you here. Please, follow me, I will show you our beautiful coffee plantation and at the same time you’ll witness the entire coffee-making process, from planting and harvesting to processing and roasting.”
She didn’t ask us to pay for anything, she was just happy to show us her beautiful coffee plantation. We followed her on this unforgettable guided tour.
It was the first time I witnessed a coffee tree — standing high with beautiful green leaves and several colorful beans that add a touch of beauty. Coffee beans typically go through several color changes as they ripen on the coffee tree. Initially green, they then become yellow or orange and when the bean is ready to be harvested, it becomes bright red.
I took one directly from the tree, touched it, smelt it and then tasted it. I wasn’t expecting the sweetness of this bright red coffee bean. Before being ready to use, the coffee bean goes through different processes:
- Harvesting: taking off the red bean from the tree
- Pulping: When I first tasted the red bean, it was the outer skin that gave me the sweet flavor. This step consists of removing the skin from the bean.
- Fermentation: Place the beans in a fermentation tank or container and let them ferment for around 12–48 hours.
- Washing: You may need to rinse them several times until the beans are clean.
- Drying: Spread the washed beans on a clean, flat surface and let the sun do the work. This process can take several days before it’s complete.
- Hulling: Once the beans are fully dried, remove the parchment-like covering, which is the dried mucilage.
- Roasting: Roast the bean at your desired level of roast.
You then have brown coffee beans ready to use. Enjoy!
Something grabbed my attention — it was an animal in a big squared cage. I came closer — it was my first time to see such a creature. I asked our guide:
“What is this animal and why do you have it in a cage?”
“This is the luwak, also known as the civet. We put it in a cage, feed him with coffee beans, then take out his poop to make the luwak coffee,” she replied.
The animal is scientifically classified as a civet, but due to language and cultural differences, it is known in Bali as luwak. The luwak may hold cultural or traditional significance, and the local name may be preferred to emphasize its importance. I came closer to the cage and saw a hopeless animal, with no energy to run, play, or fight. The civet should be provided with a balanced diet; if not, he may end up eating only coffee beans his entire life.
It’s good to mention that in some cases, the luwak is not kept in captivity. In the wild, the animal roams freely and forages for his food, which includes various fruits, insects, and, of course, coffee cherries. Luwaks are known to be selective in their food choices and may pick the ripest cherries, which they can digest more easily. The digestive enzymes of the civet alter the beans’ proteins and amino acids, resulting in a smoother and less bitter coffee.
When the animal is not in a cage, farmers need to wander into the wild, looking for the civet poop. It increases the complexity of the process with a decrease in production that justifies the price difference.
Luwak coffee is often praised for its mild and less bitter taste compared to conventionally processed coffee. The fermentation process in the civet’s digestive system reduces the coffee’s acidity. The flavor can vary depending on the type of coffee bean, the civet’s diet, and the roasting method. In general, and due to the labor-intensive process and the limited production, luwak coffee is one of the most expensive coffees in the world, with a price that can reach US$100 per kilogram for farmed beans and US$1,300 per kilogram for wild-collected beans.
We continued our tour in this unique coffee plantation. Every step was an invitation to learn more about the fauna and flora of Bali. The air was scented with the sweet perfume of tropical blooms. Flowers such as jasmine, frangipani, and orchids not only give a unique flavor to this place but also fill the surroundings with peace and love.
I continued holding the hand of my beloved wife and together we didn’t stop stepping into the unknown of this unique coffee plantation. The unknown led us to witness for the first time the beauty of the black Balinese bee. They are very small compared to the regular size of the golden bees I already know, but their honey is one of the tastiest I ever tried. Writing these words makes my mouth water. Its small touch of acidity gave the sweetness of the honey the taste I’m in love with.
Besides its higher cost and its unique taste, it is considered to be medicinal. Locals use it only when necessary and in small quantities.
Ni Nyoman, our lovely guide, finished our tour in a spectacular coffee shop in the middle of the coffee plantation. For a moment, I thought I was in heaven. While I was contemplating the beauty of the place, Ni Nyoman handed us a wooden plate with ten different cups of drink, all locally cultivated and processed. From pure hot cacao to Balinese coffee or several types of tea, each had its own color, its own story, and of course its own taste.
The luwak coffee didn’t fit on the wooden plate and was served separately. Maybe because it’s different or maybe because it’s more expensive.
I’m still wondering if it’s expensive because it’s different or if it’s different because it’s expensive. I still don’t have my answer, but I earned a magnificent experience that I added once again into my personal book of life.
