Dionysius ruins and Paphos Lighthouse • Photo: R.C. Flores-Gunkle

Cyprus: Tombs and Tales

Beauty and the Beach

Going anywhere in the Greek islands is impossible without following in the footsteps of mythological gods and ancient heroes. What is a skeptic to do when taken to the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, during a visit to Cyprus?

I am old enough to remember the lines, “Venus, Goddess of Love that you are…” sung by Frankie Avalon (in 1959). I am educated enough to know that the Roman Venus was adopted from the Greek Aphrodite.

I have a vague memory of her origin story from Humanities courses. [Warning violence ahead.] Cronus castrated his father, Uranus, on the recommendation of his mother. He then threw his Dad’s severed privates into the sea. From the resulting white foam, Aphrodite emerged fully formed. You don’t want to know what Cronus went on to do.[Married his sister and ate their children — but everything came out all right in the end.]

Wide view of Aphrodite’s birthplace • Photo: R.C.Flores-Gunkle

So Uranus (the sky) was her father, and the sea her mother. This took place, according to legend, in Cyprus, near where I stood on a cliff gazing down at foam forming on a nearby rock — Aphrodite’s Rock. It was October, and a few dozen bathers were on the beach.