Mature Flâneur

Dolceacqua: A Lost World of Medieval Enchantment

Within those stone walls, another Italy

Tim Ward, Mature Flâneur
Globetrotters
Published in
7 min readMay 24, 2024

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Dolceacqua’s Doria Castle. All photos by Tim Ward

After two months traveling through southern France, Teresa (my beloved spouse) and I must have seen a hundred medieval villages. So much antique cute-osity: hand-crafted stone houses, windy little streets, rough-hewn stairways, time-worn statues, towering châteaus upon the hilltop, and perhaps a ruined castle fortification — the scarred remains of some duke’s vainglorious attempt at independence.

Goudron, Provence
Left: St. Agnes; Right: Lacoste (both in France)

Oh, I enjoyed each and every one of these villages. But I suppose it is fair to say we had become a little bit bored with them by this point in our journey. Comparisons became inevitable: this one has too many kitschy tourist shops, that one feels Disney-fied, this one has decayed from neglect, that one is all Air B&Bs— as if we were undercover reviewers for some Best of Medieval Towns Michelin guide.

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Tim Ward, Mature Flâneur
Globetrotters

Author, communications expert and publisher of Changemakers Books, Tim is now a full time Mature Flaneur, wandering Europe with Teresa, his beloved wife.