Exploring Phimai, Thailand
The little town is about a four-hour drive from Bangkok but seems like a world away. Less than two percent of the 40 million annual tourists here ever travel to this region of Thailand, referred to as Isaan. I’m sure a far fewer percentage ever glimpse this little farming village of only about 10,000 residents.
What you’re reading now is actually a compilation of several trips to the area. Here, I’ll introduce you to Phimai Thailand, a unique place rich in culture and history, and show you some places worth visiting here. The Historical Park, the Museum, Sai Gnam Park, and the Night Market are the most popular attractions in Phimai.
Brief History
Built between the 11th and 12th centuries, Phimai was once part of the ancient Khmer Kingdom, as well as a bustling hub of trade and commerce. It was constructed to resemble and oriented to face its sister city of Angkor Wat, approximately 380 km south in present-day Cambodia. It sits alongside the Mun River, and just outside the scattered remnants of the old city walls, you’ll find portions of an old moat. The ruins of the temple and old city walls were placed under government protection in the 1930’s. Restoration efforts began here in the late 60’s, and the historical park was open to the public in 1989.
Victory Gate and Ancient Walls
Today, perhaps the first thing you will notice in Phimai are the remnants of the old city walls, along with portions of the moat that once surrounded it. Entering from the south side, travelers are greeted by the main gate, Pratu Chai (or Victory Gate). This was used as the main entrance during Khmer times. The road from this gate led travelers to the Khmer Capital of Angur Wat. It was partially reconstructed in 2018, and gives you an idea of what it looked like 800 years ago.
Phimai Historical Park
This is by far the most popular tourist attraction here in Phimai. Adult admission to Phimai Historical Park is 100 baht or just under three U.S. dollars. The original temple of Prasat Hin Phimai stands 28 meters tall and is partially intact, thanks to the restoration efforts since the late 1960’s.
Upon entering the complex you cross through a series of free-standing columns and walk toward the inner courtyard. The courtyard and buildings of the park are adorned with ancient statues and carvings, displaying the skill and artistry of Khmer times. You will see the temple remains as the most prominent feature.
There are three sections of the temple sanctuary, with the main one being dedicated to Mount Meru (considered by both Buddhists and Hindus to be the center of the spiritual and physical realms.) You’ll also find a statue of the ancient Khmer King Jayavarman VII; a replica, the original one is housed at the local museum. Though the Khmers were predominantly Hindu, this temple was built for the Buddhist inhabitants of Phimai — a testament to religious tolerance within the Khmer Kingdom. Today, the area remains mostly Buddhist.
Night Market
After 4pm, the local night market opens. Only 50 yards from the Historical Park, it’s a good place to experience the culture and try out different types of Thai food. You can purchase food here to cook or enjoy freshly prepared meals also. There’s an array of clothing and jewelry here at the night market. I had my ear pierced here once and lived to tell about it. Leave your credit card behind and bring local cash (Baht) for your purchases. None of the shops take credit. There are ATM machines near the Market, and they will convert the currency for you.
Sai Ngam Park
It would be remiss to come here without visiting the beautiful Sai Ngam Park. Surrounded by an old man-made tributary from the Mun river, the most notable item within the park is a 350-year-old Banyan tree, which covers 1350 square meters of the park’s inner island. It is thought to be the oldest and largest Banyan tree in the world, and certainly within Southeast Asia.
The Buddhist locals consider the Banyan tree to be sacred because it was under such a tree that Buddha achieved enlightenment. Some believe that spirits reside within the park. Spirits or not, it’s a great place to retreat from the midday sun, or take an evening stroll. I really enjoy conversations under the banyan tree here, and find the park to be a peaceful place.
Phimai Historical Museum
This is one place I was not able to see until just recently, due to all of the pandemic shutdowns. I finally made it inside the doors just last month (June 2022), and was really amazed at all of the artwork and relics on display here. I photographed nearly every piece in the museum and though I can’t possibly show you all of them, I’ll try to include some good examples of what you’ll see.
During the days of Khmer rule, there were quite a few cities built like Phimai. In the museum, you’ll see artifacts from nearby cities and villages like Khon Kaen and Buriram, and many from the Phimai area. It appears that many of them were built very similarly to one another with some, like the one here in Phimai, being more elaborate than others.
From my trip to the museum, I learned that the Phimai area has been inhabited for over 3,000 years. Archeologists have been able to identify three distinct periods of history here, including the Tamyae (from 1,000 BCE), the Phimai Period (from 500 BCE), and the Early Historic Period (from 600–1,300 CE). Artifacts and human remains found here to indicate how the people once lived, and the common beliefs they held. I found the photos of human remains quite interesting, as they were covered with jewelry. Evidently, they believed that anything you are buried with would follow you into the next life.
Overview
Phimai is a place I’ve come to appreciate. It’s a quiet farming community but has a good selection of hotels and guest houses. You’ll even find a few Western restaurants here.
For those looking for a break from bustling cities and tourist destinations, Phimai offers a slice of laid-back Thai culture and charm not seen in usual tourist areas. There’s enough to see and do here for several days. Visitors will enjoy world-class food, interesting sites, decent accommodations, and friendly people. If you can come to Thailand, it is definitely worth checking out Phimai.
