Rottnest Island. Warning: Wild Quokkas Ahead
I had 6 hours to find as many quokkas as possible
All photos were taken by the author.
My most recent wildlife adventure took place in Perth a few months ago. There were several wild hiking spots there, but Rottnest Island stood out.
Quick intro: the island got its name from the Dutch, who discovered an island with weird rat-looking animals (as the Dutch thought). So they called it “Rats’ Nest Island”. Rats appeared to be quokkas, the kangaroo’s li’l siblings that have recently gained popularity. Quokkas used to live on the mainland as well, but they became extinct due to dingoes and foxes. Fewer people know that the island was once a prison for aboriginal people. Unlike Alcatraz, the prison no longer exists; instead, hotels and guest houses have taken its place.
When our ferry arrived, I had 6.5 hours to find as many quokkas as possible. I didn’t rent a bike because I prefer narrow paths to wider roads. But the island turned out to be much bigger than I had thought.
We arrived in a small, cosy village.
A quokka! A preschooler next to me exclaimed, pointing to bushes nearby.
It happened much sooner than I expected. I immediately counted 16 quokkas, but I decided not to waste time trying to take a selfie. I had the whole island to explore. I was eager to see more quokkas in the wild.
So I let them do what they liked best — eating — and hit the road.
I went south and quickly got to the Royal Australian Artillery. Zero quokkas waited for me there.
I kept moving south to Parker Bay and Henrietta Rocks. The most breathtaking views ever, but it was cold and blustery. And no quokkas.
Where were those fellas?
Only then did I realise that the only ferry back to the mainland would leave in 2.5 hours.
I still have time. I told myself. I saw a shortcut on the maps through the salt lakes.
I headed north and soon came across the lakes. The most colourful salt lakes I have ever seen. Still no quokkas.
2 hours… and the dead end telling me I needed to take a detour. So imagine me, the half-repaired runway, and this fellow spider. The biggest one in my life, too.
It seemed like the right time to run.
1.5 hours, two salt lakes, and no quokkas later, I made my way back to the village. To my surprise, I didn’t see humans. I saw… quokkas. It seemed like they never moved from that place.
If you stay quiet for a while, at least one quokka will come to meet a new friend. I thought they might have seen me as their food competitor.
That was my last shot on the island. The last and very early winter ferry took me back to Fremantle. By the time I landed, I forgot how many quokkas I had found. But I still think of my mission as done!
Thanks to Joel R. Dennstedt for amazing wildlife pictures
And Kim Baker for comparing humans and birds
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