Mature Flânuer
In St. Rémy: How Van Gogh Got His Groove Back
The light of Provence
There is something about the light in St. Rémy de Provence that seems magical. At twilight, the sky attains the deepest, glowing indigo I have ever seen — especially through the branches of the ancient plane trees that line the old town’s ring road.
I remembered that light so clearly from ten years ago when I first came to St. Rémy. Now we are back again, and we (me and Teresa, my adorable wife), are loving it. The winding streets of the old town are lined with two-story limestone houses. About one-quarter of the center is filled with little boutiques and restaurants, while the rest retains its quiet, residential charm.
Just strolling around town is a delight. Sometimes, a colorful surprise awaits us around the corner: an ancient fountain, masked Venetian-Carnevale figures, or simply the overpowering perfume of a wisteria vine coming into bloom.
