The Bread Men of Uzbekistan

Give us this day our daily bread … (and coffee, too)

The author encounters a van stuffed with hundreds of loaves of fresh-baked bread. The van is part of a network of bread men who fan out each morning through Samarkand, Uzbekistan, ensuring the delivery of this delicious staple to the city’s many cafes, restaurants and shops. (Photo: ©Craig K. Collins)

It is just before dawn in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, and I am wandering the streets of this legendary Silk Road city in a desperate search for coffee.

I am carrying a backpack full of camera equipment while on my way to capture some sunrise photos of the spectacular Shah-i-Zinde mausoleum complex.

But first, coffee. Priorities.

It is a little after 5 a.m., and night’s darkness has lifted, replaced by the dim glow of the coming dawn. I can hear shopkeepers stirring and can see through the light of a restaurant window workers beginning preparations for the coming day.

But this is all happening behind closed doors, and it appears the availability of coffee may still be a couple hours away.

On the streets there is almost no traffic, except for what I notice to be the zipping and zooming of an apparent fleet of small, white vans. One turns down a narrow street in front of me. I follow on foot out of perhaps a mix of curiosity and instinct — my drive to procure coffee at this hour is strong.