The Magnificent White Temple of Chiang Rai
There are over 80,000 temples in this little Asian country. I came across this one online while staying in the old northern city of Chiang Mai. After spending a week there visiting temples, I decided to trek the 225 km north to see this jewel, Wat Rong Khun, otherwise known as The White Temple of Chiang Rai, Thailand. What I discovered was far from the ordinary, and perhaps a bit bizarre. The temple is located about 15 minutes outside the city of Chiang Rai, in the small village of Ban Tha Klang. Truth be told, this isn’t really a temple at all, though there are Buddhist monks here.
It’s more of an art exhibit with an ominous theme. The creator, Chalermchai Khositpipat, is a native of this area. An alumnus of Bangkok’s Poh Chang Art School, his successful career has completely funded the construction of this exhibit. Starting in 1997, Khositpipat has invested over 30 million baht of his own money into the project.
With a majestic three-tiered roof covered in Naga serpents, Wat Rong Khun is finished top to bottom in white plaster. The white symbolizes the purity of the Buddha. Much of the building itself is inlaid with thousands of these decorative glass inserts. They are said to represent the wisdom of Buddha.
When you approach the temple, you see water and a bridge crossing over it. On each side are these kinnaras statues (half man, half bird creatures) of Thai Mythology.
Rahu statues guard the entrance to the temple as you cross over. The entire length of the walkway is lined with white Naga serpents
The main thing you will notice are the hands. You cannot miss the hands, reaching up in apparent desperation. The purpose—to show the result of unbridled greed and lust, advising the onlooker to run from worldly greed, material possessions, evil desires and attachments. They serve as a stark warning indeed.
When you get to the end of the bridge, you’re greeted by the “Gate to Heaven”, or entrance to the main sanctuary.
There are signs that prohibit photography inside, but I will describe it to you the best I can:
The main interior hall is decorated mainly in blue and orange tones, a large Buddha standing to one end. There are images all over the walls of rocket ships, nuclear attacks, oil pumps at work, and even a depiction of the world trade center attack. There are photos of Michael Jackson, Harry Potter, The Angry Birds, Kung Fu Panda, Batman, and Neo from the Matrix. My guess was that this portrayed the influence of Western culture. The overall theme inside is a depiction of modern society, its obsessions and preoccupation with the trivial, and the overall evil and destructive nature of human beings.
After leaving the main sanctuary, I walked around the exterior to capture a few photos of the architecture and artistry that went into making this. I can see why it took decades to complete.
Some believe the artwork here at the White Temple is distasteful, or perhaps even sacrilegious. The artist disagrees, and claims to have created this as an offering to Buddha. He believes it will win him merit, and potentially eternal life. A real visionary, he has plans for at least 9 buildings on the site. The goal is that the temple be a place to learn and meditate for many future generations.
Wat Rong Khun is truly an amazing site to see, and is certainly beyond ordinary. It is complex and detailed enough to spend hours just taking it all in. If you’re ever up for adventure in Southeast Asia, don’t miss this incredible site.
The White Temple of Thailand, Wat Rong Khun is open every day from 6:30 am to 6 pm, the entrance fee is 100 Thai baht for foreigners. Thai nationals get in for free.
