Three Days in Paradise: Welcome to Koh Chang Thailand
I decided not to even argue. She told me yesterday “You don’t listen to me. You need to listen to me!”. Personally, I thought her father’s truck would be fine on the island. But a wise man once said that wise men should also choose their battles wisely. So we parked the truck, paid in advance for an island taxi service, and boarded the ferry to the island of Koh Chang Thailand. Never been? Let me tell you about my three days here.
A Little About Koh Chang
Koh Chang in Thai means “elephant island”, and was named by the first settlers here for its shape and appearance. It is the third-largest island in Thailand and sits just off the mainland coast within the Thai Gulf. For centuries, settlers here have made their living from fishing and growing fruit. During the later part of the twentieth century, however, the island started receiving attention from foreign backpackers and hippies, arriving mostly by fishing boats. Today, tourism has become the main source of revenue for the more than 5000 residents here.
Just a short disclaimer: This trip was in May 2022. I had originally thought the island would be busy because it was difficult finding a hotel online. In fact, there were very few tourists there when I went, with much of the island still closed due to the pandemic. Looking around, you can see that it was once a bustling little tourist attraction. Now that restrictions have been lifted, I hope the locals will be able to reopen and return to normal soon.
Serenity Resort
Location: 51/18, Ko Chang, Ko Chang District, Trat 23170, Thailand
The ferry ride was only a 30-minute trip from the mainland. We had traveled over seven hours that day by car. Needless to say, we were glad the resort was only a few kilometers from the Centrepoint ferry dock. I had booked a little bungalow at Serenity Resort. The room was a stucco structure with a cute palm-thatched roof. It was on the mainland side, with views of Cambodia and Thailand in the distance.
Island Taxi Tour
With only three days to spend here, we decided to do some sightseeing right away. So the next day, we rented a taxi to take us around. A small Toyota diesel picked us up, outfitted with an open back for passengers.
It wasn’t long into this ride that I realized someone was probably right about the hills here. Steep S curves lead up from small beach villages, crossing mountainous jungle terrain between stops. At several points, I had to hold on so I wouldn’t roll out from the back of the taxi.
Bang Bao Fishing Village
Location: X8C6+GW Koh Chang Tai, Ko Chang District, Trat, Thailand
One of our first stops that day was at a quaint little fishing village by the name of Bang Bao. Today, it is most popular as a jump-off point for snorkeling and diving tours. Small shops and restaurants line the pier, everything built directly on the water.
The place was quiet when I went, with few visitors or open shops, and tour boats sitting idle. A handful of tourists and locals were eating at a nearby restaurant. There were storms brewing on shore at the time, and you could hear the distant roar of thunder as it pierced through the muggy midday heat. Being on the southwestern tip of the island, you could see for miles into the Gulf of Thailand.
Lonely Beach
Location: 275V+C6H Tambon Ko Chang, Amphoe Ko Chang, Trat 23170, Thailand
After an hour or so at the fishing village, we hopped in the taxi and headed off to Lonely Beach. Located on the western side of the island, I was impressed by the white sand and ocean breezes here. Known as a popular destination for party-goers, there wasn’t a single tourist here at the time. For now at least, Lonely Beach lives up to its name.
KaeBae Viewpoint
Location: 27CR+7Q4, Ko Chang, Ko Chang District, Trat 23170, Thailand
On the way back, there is an amazing overlook at Kai Bae beach. It is a popular spot to watch the sunset over the ocean. The little island in the distance is Koh Man Nai, which serves as a sea turtle sanctuary, protected by the Thai government.
Exploring by Motorbike
Being the rainy season in Thailand, you just never know when you will get drenched. The next morning I woke up to a heavy downpour, pounding the roof of the bungalow. By afternoon, however, the sun finally prevailed so we decided to chance it and do a little exploring by motorbike. The resort made all of the arrangements, and the motorbikes were delivered directly to us.
One thing they forgot to deliver was fuel. Mine was on fumes by the time we found a gas station. This station had the oldest gas pump I have ever seen still in use. The attendant pumped a measured amount from the drum into the glass tube by turning a manual crank. Then he dispensed it with an ordinary plastic hose. Two liters and we’re off.
After filling up, we headed south along the eastern side of the island. There was a sign for a waterfall, Khlong Nonsi, so we ventured down a few backroads looking for it. No luck, it looks like it will have to go on the bucket list for next time. It was actually okay not to find it because I enjoyed seeing the palm trees and mango groves along the way.
Thanmayom Pier
Location: 39HF+P7R Tarnmayom Pier, Rural Rd, Ko Chang, Ko Chang District, Trat 23170, Thailand
There’s a jetty that we came across shortly afterward. It’s an old, dilapidated structure about midway down the eastern side of Koh Chang. With the tide low, you can see millions of barnacles clinging to the rust-stained concrete underneath. It stretches out for what seems like 300 meters or more into the gulf, with a few forgotten shipwrecks lingering nearby. It was a great place to take photos and just awe at the beauty of the sea.
Than Ma Yom Waterfall
Location: 39G8+HWH, Ko Chang, Ko Chang District, Trat 23170, Thailand
Around mid-afternoon, we discovered Than Mayom Waterfall. It was getting hot, but there was a small restaurant here that had food and cold drinks. They even had my favorite Thai beer, Chang.
The concrete bridges and walkways were a bit slick due to recent rainfall, so I made my way carefully until reaching the site of the falls. From that point, you have to cross the creek by holding onto a rope and trying to hop between rocks. It was the only way to get a decent photo and ended in me getting drenched. I finally stopped short and zoomed in for the picture below.
Retreat to Serenity
On the last day in Koh Chang, we decided to spend our time enjoying the resort. There were so few guests that we had the pool and beach to ourselves all day. When we were hungry, there was a full-service restaurant at our disposal. We even took a kayak out on the sea for a while.
In all, I had just enough of a taste of Koh Chang to make me want to return in the future. There are many more things to see, photograph, and write about here. Even during peak tourism, the island is known for its affordability, its friendly people, and peaceful atmosphere. It’s definitely a beautiful and serene place, offering an escape from the hustle and bustle of life on the mainland.
I was quoted a monthly room rate of just under $300 US dollars if I decide to return for a longer stay. That’s quite tempting don’t you think?
