Volterra; the town on a hill

A small town in southern Tuscany that is fun to wander about

Dave Scott
Globetrotters
4 min readMar 8, 2023

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A stone stairway takes visitors up into the city of Volterra
Climbing into Volterra ©2023 Dave Scott

“On a hill he said.”

I was talking with the concierge at our resort in Tuscany. I had asked about things to see and do while we were here. He continued…

“Visit Pisa of course. You will want to take the train to Florence. And you should visit Volterra.”

Ok, Pisa was on the list as was Florence. Volterra; never heard of it.

So here we were, Saturday, January 7th. The day following the Epiphany holiday. The day after our adventures in Florence. A good day for a quiet drive. A good day to discover something new. We loaded ourselves into our rental, navigated the winding roads toward Pisa, and then south. More winding roads. Then more winding roads this time climbing up to this town, Volterra.

Driving through and around Volterra to get some idea of the layout not lost but looking for a place to park. These narrow streets don’t make it easy.

The parking lot was great, but the path into Volterra, not so much. It was a stone staircase that kept on going. The top was hidden, not quite in the clouds.

A view out across the valley to the west of the town of Volterra, IT.
Looking West from the top of the stairs ©2023 Dave Scott

We ascended the stairs achieving the summit after one or two stops to catch our breath. This staircase was the main entrance to the city in ancient times. The staircase was used by merchants and farmers to bring their wares to sell at the market. Damn, they must have been fit!

Somebody had been kind enough to place a bench at the viewpoint at the top of the staircase. It was wonderful to sit and catch our breath while enjoying the wonderful vista of rolling Tuscan hills. After enjoying the view, we turned and climbed up the street into Volterra proper.

A narrow street filled with pedestrians between buildings
Narrow Streets are the Norm ©2023 Dave Scott

This is an old town dating back to the sixth century BC. The foundations were built by the Etruscans.

Like all European towns, the streets are narrow which contributes to the charm of these towns. The main shopping areas are mostly closed to auto traffic. Foot, bicycle and small mopeds only. Another thing contributing to the charm of these towns.

I captured June enjoying her lunch.

Chicken & Tomatoes ©2023 Dave Scott

A nice spread of sliced chicken breast, fresh tomatoes, cheese and fresh bread. Very simple, very tasty. Enjoy with white wine.

I’m sure we saved a bit for Liddy who was under the table. She was not alone as there was another well-behaved dog at the table next to us.

A couple wander along a narrow street through the old town of Volterra
Wandering the streets of Volterra ©2023 Dave Scott

After lunch, we enjoyed the quiet of the afternoon wandering through the streets. I can’t help thinking of them as a maze because without a map you could be lost forever 😊

Palazzo dei Priori ©2023 Dave Scott

We found the town square, the piazza where the Palazzo dei Priori is located. This proud, building dates back to the thirteenth century which probably accounts for its simple architecture. The Discover Tuscany Website mentions an annual medieval fair that is held here in August.

One of the shops June enjoyed was an Alabaster Museum which was located on the piazza. Filled with many fascinating works of art carved from this snow-white marble.

A brick stairway leading up to the center of the town of Volterra
Climbing down from Volterra ©2023 Dave Scott

Fortunately, we did have a map of the town, because on our way back to our car I did manage to take several wrong turns before arriving at the top of the staircase down to the parking lot.

We enjoyed our day exploring Volterra. I’m sure there are lots of stock jokes by residents and visitors alike about the stairs and the streets that are either going up or going down.

rolling hills of Tuscany looking south at the town of Volterra
Volterra, City on the Hill ©2023 Dave Scott

I will leave you with this view of the city silhouetted against the sky atop its hill. I am already wondering when we will be able to return for another visit.

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Dave Scott
Globetrotters

Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime. — Mark Twain