Mature Flâneur

Why We Fancy Nancy

Birthplace of Art Nouveau

Art Nouveau office building in central Nancy. All photos by Tim Ward

It seems nobody knows Nancy. Nancy is a bit remote. Tucked away in the northeast corner of France, Nancy is the capital of Lorraine Province. It’s wedged between Strasbourg (famous for its Alsatian Christmas markets) to the east and Reims (famous for its Champagne) to the west. Poor little Nancy, stuck in the middle, does not even rate a mention in the popular France guidebook, Rick Steve’s France.

We, too, would have passed Nancy right by, but for the fact we needed a place to stay while driving from Paris to Alsace. On the map, Nancy made for a convenient midway stopover. That’s why we went.

It turns out, Nancy has style. Art Nouveau style.

Before we started our trip, Teresa (my beloved spouse and intrepid co-flâneur) discovered that Nancy was one of several birthplaces of Art Nouveau. In the 1890s the École du Nancy drew together famous architects, artists and artisans who were exploring the new movement that came to define the exuberance and optimism of the new 20th century.

Gorgeous turquoise, wrought-iron decorations and a butterfly-shaped door stand out on a city corner, even on a dreary rainy day.