Born in America, Raised in Okinawa

An “American Village” sign under construction.

Okinawa, which accounts for only 0.6% of Japan’s land area, currently hosts about two-thirds of the US military forces, who have been stationed in the country for over seventy years since their defeat in World War II. Today, there are 31 active American bases in Okinawa and the heavy presence of these bases on the island remains a controversial one. Some Okinawans associate the bases with noise pollution, crimes and accidents while others view them as a vital contribution to the local economy.

The influence of American culture is visible in every corner of Okinawa. From playing American pop music to selling vintage American goods, some neighbourhoods like Chatan exude a stronger American influence than others. American Village, a commercialized facility and tourist attraction built to look like a replica of a Southern American town is located right outside Kadena airbase, the largest military base on the island.

This photo essay documents the influence Americans has had on Okinawa over the years and how Okinawa adapted these influences to make it uniquely theirs.

The American Village

Local residents in Okinawa have capitalized on the strong American presence in the area by developing “American Village”, a dining and entertainment area with majority of its shops owned by locals. Promoting a unique blend of Japanese and American culture, the area is popular with tourists and residents alike.

Ms Mayu Higa works at Daikouku Drug, a popular drugstore chain in Okinawa. The 22-year-old feels motivated working at the American Village branch because she gets paid 1200 yen (16 SGD) per hour, higher than the average rate of 1000 yen (13 SGD) per hour. “I can speak Chinese and Japanese, which allows me to interact with tourists more easily,” said Ms Higa who studied at a university in Taiwan for four years.

Mr Okuhana Misao likes American style furniture which inspired him to start a shop selling American style car license plates as merchandise two years ago. While the 50-year-old can barely speak English, he feels that the Americans are very friendly.

Old, used military patches are being sold at shops in the American Village for 100 Yen (1.30 SGD). Many tourists buy these patches as souvenirs.

Influx of American Establishments

The first A&W outlet in Okinawa was opened in 1963 when Okinawa was still under American occupation. Okinawa is the only prefecture in the whole of Japan to have the fast food chain’s outlets. To date, the American franchise has about 26 outlets in Okinawa. This year marks the 11th year Ms Mayumi Tanaka has been working at the A&W branch at the American Village. She says she enjoys her job because she is able to meet and interact with tourists of different nationalities.

Japanese restaurants are popular amongst Americans

Kyoto Ramen, located just outside Camp Foster, is popular among Americans where they can get a good bowl of ramen, says Mr Miguel Echols. (left) “I come here often for the taste and softness of the noodles,” said the 22-year-old. Ms Yuria Nakana (right), who works part-time at the restaurant, says that the shop is usually packed with Americans on weekends. While the 18-year-old high school student cannot speak English fluently, she understands the basics of the language which helps her to communicate with the Americans.

Lifestyle changes

In some shops near the American bases, American dollars are accepted as a form of payment.

Ms Michisue Karimata, decided to dye her hair blonde two months ago after looking through an online magazine featuring American models. “I thought that it was good to switch up my look for a change,” said the 25-year-old who has an American brother-in-law.

Koza, now known as Okinawa City, is most famous for its Koza Gate Street, commonly known as Gate 2 for Americans. The street — lined with restaurants, bars, and clubs — thrives as a night life destination especially on Friday and Saturday nights and is popular with men from the U.S. forces and locals alike.

American influence on diet

Cans of Spam ham stacked on top of one another at a local supermarket. Spam, a well-known military staple food, was introduced to the Okinawans during the World War II when meat was scarce. Today, Spam is used in several Okinawan dishes, including the traditional Okinawan dish, Goya Champuru.

Steak Ramen is a specialty at Stripes Restaurant, an American-Okinawan fusion ramen shop opened 2 years ago by an Okinawan couple to cater to the palettes of the Americans.

Providing a sense of security

Airplanes at the Kadena air base, the largest U.S. military base on the island, take off almost every hour. Despite the noise, some civilians living near the area are thankful for these bases as they feel that it will protect them in times of war.

American influence on the community — Immigrants & Mixed-raced Children

Mr Lachu Lekhraj Nandwani (left) and his son, Mr Vijay Lachu Nandwani (right) are second and third generation immigrants from India. They run a tailoring and vintage clothing business, which was started by Mr Lachu’s father in 1961 when Okinawa was occupied by America. Mr Lachu arrived in Okinawa in 1977 to help his father run the business. “At first, I was complaining a lot because I’ve always wanted to go to the States,” said the 61-year-old. “But after a while, I fell in love with the country so I decided to settle down here.”

Mr Vijay was born and raised in Okinawa, even though he holds an Indian passport. He learned Japanese and English in an American school which allows him to communicate with both the Okinawans and Americans. “The Americans are friendly and easy to deal with,” said the 35-year-old. “A lot of them are our frequent customers.”

An Amerasian refers to a person born to an Asian mother and a U.S military father. The AmerAsian School of Okinawa (AASO), a non-profit organisation, was set up in 1998 to provide a safe and non discriminatory place for mixed raced children to learn both American and Japanese cultures. “It is important for them to learn both languages so that they can communicate with both sides of their heritage,” said Mr Shinsuke Nakano, who works at the AASO.