The City of Dreams
By Malvika Dahiya · Mumbai, India
Built on what was once seven separate islands floating on the Arabian Sea, Mumbai — formerly known as Bombay — is India’s bustling financial hub, home to Bollywood, and the third most densely populated city in the world. Often referred to as “the city of dreams,” Mumbai is a symbol of opportunity, upward mobility, hope, and prosperity to millions of Indians. It is a place where anything is possible and anyone can fulfill their potential.
Drive or walk around the city and it’s easy to see why. Mumbai is full of colorful chaos, buzzing with crowds of people hustling, young professionals running to catch trains in the monsoon rains, street vendors dragging carts of the famous local snack vada pav (deep fried potato fritters inside lightly toasted buns and served with spicy chutneys) and mothers dressed in bright saris with armfuls of bangles dropping their children to school. At the heart of the city’s energy and vibrance are people who will stop at nothing to achieve their dreams and will work their hardest in this city of opportunity, but who will also open their doors to strangers stranded in the monsoon floods with warmth, chai and snacks.
Being Indian, I thought I knew what to expect when I first visited Mumbai two years ago. Mumbai ended up surprising me with its history and youthful energy. The beauty of Mumbai is in its diversity. People from all walks of life thrive in Mumbai as it is home to almost every religion known to humankind and has a rich cultural legacy. Walk around the lavish locality of Bandra — home to many Bollywood personalities, cricket players and politicians — and you will find old, quaint British and Portuguese churches in between some of the best restaurants and cafes in the city. Drive to the coast of Worli, the heart of the city, and you can see the famous Haji Ali Dargah, a mosque located on an isle in the sea accessible by a walkway. Take a 40 minute ferry away from the city and you will reach Elephanta Caves, an island filled with hidden caves with ancient Hindu statues and carvings.
For a traveller on a budget, Mumbai is the perfect city. Tourist attractions are cheap, but they are not necessary to get a complete picture of Mumbai; it is easy to get a distinct flavor of the city just by driving around. Mumbai is at once home to Asia’s largest slum and the world’s most expensive home. Crowds of people hang from the doors of the packed local trains, while India’s richest man flies home in a helicopter. Five-star hotels offer expensive arrays of delicious teas and pastries, while chai vendors on the street pour the most satisfying cups of masala tea for under a dollar. For luxury seekers, Mumbai has plenty of great options, but I believe that Mumbai is actually ideal for budget travellers because they are able to see the true soul of the city in a raw, unfiltered, authentic light.
I am a strong believer in learning about a city through your taste buds — the Mumbai experience would be incomplete without its food. Mumbai is a haven for food lovers. Many people who know Indian food associate it with curries and naan bread. While this true, there are many regional differences to Indian food that are as nuanced as India itself. I highly recommend trying Gujarati food while in Mumbai. Gujarat is a state near Mumbai that has had a prominent impact on the city’s culinary culture. All the curries, daals (lentils) and vegetable dishes that you may be familiar with have the distinctive Gujarati twist of being either very spicy, very sweet, or both. Sweetness in savoury dishes may sound strange, but it is extremely delicious and a great way to gastronomically explore one of India’s many subcultures. In addition to the food, the whole Gujarati restaurant experience is worth trying in itself. Typically, a Gujarati restaurant will serve a thali: a round, metal plate filled with many different types of food. This may include a variety of different Indian breads, appetizers and various curries, daals and vegetables in the bowls. The idea behind this is to have a holistic meal that incorporates many different types of foods, flavors, spices and textures on one plate so that you really get a little bit of everything the restaurant has to offer. As you dig into your thali, servers will continuously circle the establishment offering to refill your plate with whichever dishes you want, as many times as you want until you are satisfied. All of that, for under $5–10!
For the less adventurous diner, Mumbai has essentially anything else you would want to eat. Kala Ghoda (which translates to Black Horse) is an art district downtown with many of the city’s beautiful heritage buildings, art galleries and educational institutions. The area is packed with charming brunch spots and cafes (perfect for your Instagram avocado toast shot), in addition to typical Indian restaurants. Bandra, a posh neighborhood in West Mumbai, is also famous for its diverse and high-quality eateries. They have everything from fusion Pan-Asian bistros, to the best salad spots in town, to decadent patisseries. Prices vary, but you would probably spend only $10 per person at an upmarket cafe downtown.
One of my favorite things to do in Mumbai is to explore the culturally rich downtown area called Colaba. I would start a trip to Colaba at the famous Leopold Cafe. Owned by descendants of Zoroastrian Iranians who came to India in the 19th century, it is another marker of India’s ethnic diversity and multiculturalism. The cafe, with bullet holes that remain on the walls, holds significant emotional meaning to the people of Mumbai. The cafe was attacked by terrorists in the infamous Bombay terror attacks of November 26, 2008, but reopened just four days after the attack, becoming a symbol of strength, resilience, and the spirit of defiance for Indians.
After grabbing a bite at the cafe, I loved walking around the street markets that adorn the district. They decorate the sidewalks with colorful handicrafts, tote bags with ethnic designs, and art with images of elephants, gods and other Hindu symbols. Finally, no trip to Colaba is complete without stopping by the famous Gateway of India by the seaside promenade. The Gateway — a beautiful example of Indian architecture — is an arch monument built in the 20th century. Towering proudly over the Arabian sea, it was originally built to welcome British governors and allow entry and access into India. It is Mumbai’s top tourist attraction and a definite must-see.
I love Mumbai, and would recommend it to any traveler on or off a budget. To me, Mumbai is the smell of milk, ginger and cardamom lingering around the chaiwala (tea vendor) at the street corner. Mumbai is long commutes, bumper to bumper traffic and crowded trains that somehow always manage to squeeze that extra person in. Mumbai is temples, mosques and churches. Mumbai is warmth, energy and possibility. Mumbai is the city of dreams.
This article was published in the Spring 2018 issue, Budget Travel.
About the writer
Malvika Dahiya is from Mumbai, India, and Singapore. Her favorite city is her hometown of Mumbai because of the history, culture and chaos.
About Guac
Guac is an award-winning travel publication run by an interdisciplinary group of students at Cornell University. We aim to inspire our readers to celebrate cultural diversity and view the world with an open mind through delivering unique stories from people around the world.
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