Can we just keep it simple?
With Israel, the answer is probably no. Its people have had too long a history of exile, too horrific a trauma during the Holocaust, and now, too dramatic of a victim-to-villain role reversal for the story to make any sense. We were repeatedly told that if we learn one thing on Trek, it’s that Israel is complicated.
Yet there are simple observations to be made. From the perspective of an outsider, not an expert or an inhabitant of the area, this is what I learned: the conflict is about emotional reconciliation, not land acquisition. We heard stats revealing mistrust between and within both parties. Israelis and Palestinians vastly underestimate how much each other are willing to settle for peace. Of the possibly helpful concessions, strongly desired by both sides is simply an apology and acknowledgement of the other. Even a symbolic right-of-return, without practical land swaps, boosts the likelihood of peace. There is a way forward. But the people have to be willing. As peace negotiator Tal Becker told us, the willingness to concede and continue has to spring from a bottom-up, societal reshaping of self-identity.
Another simple observation: the longer this change is delayed, the more people have to suffer — on both sides. Palestinians will continue to live without their freedom, and Israelis will continue to live in constant fear of retaliation. Juxtaposed with this truth is the simultaneous truth that life does go on for people. When we were in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, we saw people selling their goods in the market, walking to Shabbat dinner, creating technology start-ups, surfing at the beach. Many of these people grapple with the moral repercussions of the country they inhabit; all of them find a way to carry out fulfilling lives at the same time. The situation appears different in Palestine, where material standard of living is considerably lower, but even those who struggle without electricity and water or protest against oppression find meaning in the way they live.
On the last day, our tour guide Amir (beautiful soul) told us one thing. That regardless of what opinions we formed during the trip, he just wants to know that we care about Israel/Palestine. Perhaps there is no right or wrong at this point, only peace or continued suffering, and the first step out of the dilemma is caring about the people who suffer.
