Learning the Meaning of Saudade

John Challis
Sep 3, 2018 · 8 min read

Cover photo from The INSIDE OUT Project

“Ok, here we go!” A professional paraglider from Colombia had finally found a hole in the clouds, a good gust of wind and was ready to jump off one of the tallest coastal monoliths in the world, called Pedra da Gávea in Rio de Janeiro. My hiking friends and I watched in wonder as the wind lifted him up in the air. He flew back and forth several times in front of us before dropping beneath the clouds and out of view. Minutes later, the clouds finally parted and the scene unfolded. White sands, blue water, green hills and massive stone cliffs make Rio de Janeiro one of the most unique and impressive landscapes that I’ve encountered.

Mornings in Rio were something to look forward to as I woke up each day to an endless stretch of sparkling ocean beyond the terrace of my hostel in Leme. It was directly next to Copacabana beach which seemed to be littered with beautiful and fit people working out, playing soccer or lounging in the sun. It was at Copacabana where I tried my first taste of açaí in Brazil. As I walked down the wavy striped boardwalk a broad smile came across my face that I couldn’t seem to hide. “First acai? a tour salesman asked me?”

After a short bus ride down the coast, I reached Sao Paulo. The selection of impressive architecture, museums, and art exhibits was almost overwhelming. I seemed to find another interesting building designed by the famed Niemeyer around every corner. Beco do Batman was a highlight of my stay. It’s a graffiti and art neighborhood full of design and art studios and cafes.

I was itching to get to Florianopolis during the surf season and before it got too cold so I kept moving south. The island was more beautiful than I could have imagined and almost immediately felt like a place I could call home. The many lakes, mountains, sand dunes, and beaches on the island provide a variety of recreational activities like kitesurfing, surfing, hiking, boating, sand boarding, and much more. I found a second-hand surfboard from Juan, the hostel owner at Campeche and former surf pro, and spent the next month enjoying all that Floripa has to offer. For the first few nights I lucked out with a great hostel group, we barbecued, had jam sessions on the beach and skinny dipped at midnight.

One day we decided to go to the southern part of the island to Matadeiro beach. We drove down in a friends car and then trekked to the beach with our little surf crew, as it has walking access only. The beach is in a small bay enclosed on both ends by a green mountain. My friend explained how the beach got its name, it was once a hunting ground for whales that would come to mate off the coast in the winter. It was sunny and the beach was packed, the entire bay was lined with surfers from one end to the other. After a few hours of fun, we decided to call it a day. On the way back we acquired another friend and surfboard so we ended up strapping our boards to the top of the car with a slackline and making our way slowly back to the hostel.

Matadeiro beach is also the access point to the hike to Lagoinha do Leste, another even more secluded beach that’s free from any civilization other than the occasional campers. A friend and I hiked there one afternoon. The trail winds through trees and along the coastal cliffs for several miles before dropping into a pristine bay with a small lake connected to the beach. Several times along the trail the surrealness of the landscape caused us to involuntarily stop and breath in the fresh salty air, listen to the waves crash below us and feel the breeze blow by.

My final stop in Brazil was Iguaçu falls, one of the largest waterfall systems in the world. The waterfalls are on the border of Brazil and Argentina and can be viewed from both sides. The end of the trail on the Brazilian side has a walkway that takes you to a panoramic viewpoint where you’re surrounded by waterfalls. It’s like stepping into a dream world created by CGI. Misty air, rainbows, bright colored butterflies that land on your arms and face and shoots of water in every direction, cutting through the green mossy cliffs. The Argentine side was just as impressive with miles of trails and seemingly endless views of the waterfalls.

Now as I look back at my time in Brazil it could be summed up in one word, saudade. It’s a Portuguese word that a friend taught me the first time we met. There’s no word in English with the equivalent meaning but it roughly translates to a combination of melancholy and deep longing for memories and intense happiness for having experienced the memories. I’ll always remember my first trip to Brazil. Hopefully, it’s the first of many.

More photos:

Rio de Janeiro

Sao Paulo

Florianopolis

Foz do Iguaçu


Originally published at www.hastyville.com.

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The Land of Fleeting Moments — A simulation formed by art, adventure and creativity

John Challis

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I’m a designer and traveler, sharing my experiences and perspective on life.

hastyville

The Land of Fleeting Moments — A simulation formed by art, adventure and creativity

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