Japan: Onsen Oasis
Getting Soaked in a Hot Springs Paradise
Story and Photos by John Penisten
A Cultural Experience
Perhaps none of Japan’s numerous cultural icons are more endearing or significant to the Japanese people, and visitors as well, than the popular onsen (hot springs resorts/hotels and spas) located throughout the island country. Indeed, there are so many all over the country that Japan is an onsen oasis paradise.
A big part of the Japanese lifestyle is enjoying the numerous onsen, or hot springs resorts, year around on a quick weekend getaway or a longer indulgent vacation. For local folks, relaxing in the invigorating thermal baths while enjoying exotic and traditional onsen kaiseki (multi-course) cuisine and related activities is part of their natural lifestyle. For visitors, a dip in a hot spring bath at an onsen hotel provides a cultural experience like few others.
Japan’s Hot Springs — A National Obsession
To say that the onsen are Japan’s national obsession is something of an understatement. Japan probably has more natural hot springs baths per capita than any other country in the world. An onsen stay will add a relaxing and adventurous dimension to any Japan visit. The following is a sampler of good onsens from around Japan.
Honshu-The Main Island
Nikko
A good place to begin an onsen tour of Japan is the main island of Honshu. Nikko, about 2 hours north of Tokyo via high speed train, is in Nikko National Park, amidst a panorama of forest, mountains, lakes and gushing streams. Nikko is famed for the lavish Toshogu Shrine complex built in 1636 that serves as the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603. Visiting Toshogu Shrine is a solemn and spiritual experience as one strolls through the temples and buildings of the complex.
While Nikko boasts several onsen, Nikko Senhime Monogatari Inn is one of the best. Senhime features comfortable Japanese-style rooms and traditional cuisine served in intimate private dining rooms. The cuisine emphasizes the freshest of local produce, seafood and more. The onsen baths are inviting and invigorating with separate facilities for both men and women. For details, see: www. senhime.co.jp/en/ For general information on Nikko, see: www.visitnikko.jp/en/
Hakone
An hour or so by train south of Tokyo is the popular hot springs resort town of Hakone which lies near Mount Fuji in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. Hakone is an area of high mountains and features the beautiful Lake Ashi with winding roads and railways that connect the towns and villages of the region. The area’s volcanic origins account for the numerous onsen. Visitors enjoy ferry boat rides across the lake and then a ropeway (cable car lift) ride across the still steaming spectacular Owakudani Gorge. On clear days, Mount Fuji appears through the clouds. Hakone, the main town, is small and compact and situated in a deep valley surrounded by high peaks.
Hotellerie Maille Coeur Shougetsu is a boutique-style hotel with comforting onsen baths to soothe away a hard day’s travel. The baths switch genders each day so everyone can enjoy the variety of each. A full-service restaurant provides creative Japanese inspired cuisine with a set dinner menu and traditional buffet breakfast. For details, see: www.shougetsu.com For general information on Hakone, see: hakone-japan.com
Amanohashidate
Snuggled along the Sea of Japan coast northwest of Kyoto is one of Japan’s top scenic spots, the quiet fishing village of Amanohashidate. The “Bridge to Heaven,” a narrow 2.2 mile sand spit reaching across Miyazu Bay is the main attraction.
Japanese mythology has it that Amanohashidate is where the gods conceived the islands of Japan. View the “Bridge” from a lookout atop Kasamatsu Park across the bay (accessible by ferry boat-or walk across the sand spit) by bending over and looking upside down between your legs, making the sand spit appear to be floating in air.
The Taikyourou Inn is centrally located near the sand spit bridge and offers traditional onsen rooms, soothing baths, and cuisine with the emphasis on fresh local seafood. For details, see: www.taikyourou.com/eng.html For general information on Amanohashidate, see: https://en.japantravel.com/kyoto/amanohashidate
Kinosaki
Kinosaki Onsen town is located northwest of Kyoto 2.5 hours by train and near the coast of the Sea of Japan. A quiet tree-lined stream flows through the town.
Famous for its hot springs discovered centuries ago, Kinosaki has long attracted visitors to the warming and rejuvenating baths. In the evenings, the town comes alive as visitors dressed in yukata (robes) and geta (wooden clogs) stroll around this delightful town taking in the cafes, restaurants, game arcades and public baths.
The compact town is easily explored on foot. A popular day excursion is a ropeway (cable car lift) up the mountain to the Onsenji Temple. There is a panoramic view of Kinosaki and the countryside from the observation deck there.
The Nishimuraya Honkan is one of Kinosaki’s top rated ryokans. The traditional-styled buildings surround a peaceful Japanese garden with tall pine trees, elegant greenery landscaping and ponds full of colorful koi carp. The guestrooms are furnished in traditional Japanese style. Dining is also traditional kaiseki cuisine and served in the guest room.
Menus are seasonal using local products and featuring seasonal Matsuba crab (winter availability) and local Tajima beef, the origin of the famous Kobe beef. Guests will enjoy the beautiful presentation and artistic accent of each meal served.
For details, see: www.nishimuraya.ne.jp For general information on Kinosaki, see: https://www.japan.travel/en/travel-directory/Kinosaki
Takayama
Takayama is one of Japan’s most charming and traditional rural small towns. Located amidst the southern ranges of the Japan Alps, Takayama has an old Japan feel and flair with its old town narrow lanes lined with wooden houses, arts and crafts shops, cafes and restaurants, and sake breweries all helping retain that old town atmosphere.
It’s known as the “Little Kyoto of the Japanese Alps” due to the meandering streets and lanes similar to the old imperial capital of Kyoto. Visitors will enjoy strolling the morning market along the Miyagawa River. Vendors sell a variety of fresh produce, food items, and arts and crafts. Nearby is the historic Hida Village with numerous vintage traditional style buildings in an open-air museum setting. A bit further afield is the World Heritage Site of Shirakawago, a village of traditional houses with steep sloping thatched roofs in the gassho-zukuri style (like hands pressed together in prayer). The houses are designed to handle the heavy winter snowfall.
Gourmets will appreciate Takayama’s specialties of sake and Hida beef which rivals the country’s famed Kobe beef.
Takayama is also noted for its spring and autumn Yatai (Float) Festival considered to be among the most colorful festivals in Japan.
The festivals are highlighted with the rolling out of numerous colorful cultural yatai (floats) that are pulled through the town’s streets in a night parade.
Oyado Koto No Yume is a full service ryokan (Japanese style inn) and conveniently located, just a 2-minute walk from the Takayama train station. The hotel has colorful Japanese-style rooms featuring tatami mat floors, traditional futon bedding and full bathrooms.
And there are relaxing hot spring baths for soaking away the day’s stresses. The town’s attractions are all within easy walking distance. For details see: www.kotoyume.com For general information on the Takayama area see: www.japan.travel/en/travel-directory/Takayama
Sounkyo, Hokkaido-Japan’s North Island
Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island, is predominately rural and boasts several national parks and geothermal hot springs areas and the ubiquitous onsen. Situated in the middle of Hokkaido is the resort town of Sounkyo. The resort is of part of Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan’s largest, and sits in the spectacular Sounkyo Gorge. The park offers year around outdoor activities from hiking and backpacking to biking and cable car lifts. Scenic nature abounds with beautiful valleys, rock formations, and plunging waterfalls. The small resort town provides shops, coffee houses, restaurants and several onsen as well.
Sounkaku Grand Hotel is a full-service hotel that pampers guests with traditional Japanese guest rooms, a large buffet dining room combining western and Japanese dishes, and a large complex of indoor and outdoor hot springs baths.
After a day of hiking or exploring the park, a soak in the onsen baths will quickly relieve the day’s stress and strain. For details, see: https://sounkakugrandhotel.guestreservations.com For general information on Sounkyo, see: www.japan.travel/en/travel-directory/sounkyo
Akan Kohan
Located in eastern Hokkaido is Akan National Park, a preserve of dense forest, clearwater streams and lakes, and volcanic mountains with hot springs areas. Lake Akan-ko is a major attraction in all seasons with outdoor activities to match. The lakeside town of Akan Kohan is a visitor center with several onsen lodgings, restaurants, shops, activity vendors and more. This region of Hokkaido is noted for the indigenous Ainu people and culture. Ainu arts and crafts shops provide fine woodcrafts, artworks, jewelry and more produced by local artisans.
The Akan Tsuruga Besso Hinanoza Resort in Akan Kohan features fine Hokkaido-style cuisine creatively prepared using fresh local beef, seafood and produce.
Some rooms feature a private in room rotenburo, hot tub. The hotel has separate gender indoor/outdoor baths and a rooftop outdoor bath provides nice lake views while soaking up the ambiance. For details, see: www.hinanoza.com/en/ For general information on Hokkaido and Lake Akan, see: https://en-japantravel.com/hokkaido
The Southwest — Shikoku Island
Matsuyama
On Japan’s inland seaside of Shikoku Island lies the bustling city of Matsuyama and its famed Dogo Onsen, recognized as Japan’s oldest. Since the 8th century, the onsen has provided relaxation and refuge to emperors, feudal lords and commoners alike. Today, Dogo Onsen is a popular destination for travelers seeking a rejuvenating plunge in its numerous hot springs and resort baths.
The Chaharu Inn is one of Matsuyama’s best and provides first-class facilities and service and is located near the commercial center of Dogo Onsen. A spacious Japanese-style guestroom provides the ultimate in personal luxury and comfort. The hotel’s separate men’s and women’s rooftop bathing facilities are also top notch. A hotel room package usually includes both breakfast and dinner served buffet style with a choice of traditional Japanese kaiseki cuisine or western dishes.
Guests choose from a wide menu with an emphasis on fresh seafood including varied fish, shrimp, lobster, scallops, octopus, squid and others. Regardless of the menu specifics, guests are guaranteed a wonderful, satisfying and adventurous meal.
Also, be sure to try the local fresh oranges and other citrus fruits at the local markets. Matsuyama’s year around semi-tropical climate allows local farmers to produce incredible sweet and luscious oranges, grapefruit and more. Also, don’t miss seeing Matsuyama Castle, prominently located on Katsuyama Hill in the middle of the city. The castle dates from the 1600’s and is considered one of Japan’s best preserved feudal castles.
For information on Chaharu Inn, see: www.chaharu.com/en For general information on Matsuyama, see: https://en.japantravel.com/ehime/matsuyama
For more information on visiting Japan and staying at onsen resorts, check the Japan-Guide.com site: www.japan-guide.com/ and the Japan National Tourism Office site: www.jnto.go.jp/eng/index.html.
More Japan stories:
Wandering Around: Takayama, Japan | by John Penisten | May, 2024 | Hawai’i TraveLog| Medium
Finding Winter Fun in Japan’s Far North | by John Penisten | BATW Travel Stories| Feb, 2024| Medium
Sumo : Japan’s Revered Ancient Sport | by John Penisten | BATW Travel Stories | Jan, 2023| Medium
Kyoto, Japan: On the Trail of Temples | by John Penisten | Hawai’i TraveLog | Jun, 2023 | Medium
About the Writer
John Penisten is a photojournalist and longtime resident of Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai’i. He has authored the guidebooks Hawai’i the Big Island, Kaua’i the Garden Island, Adventure Guide to Hawai’i, and Experience the Big Island: The Road to Adventure. His personal adventure book Green Hills and Blue Lagoons: A Peace Corps Memoir covers his travels and adventures as a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer in the Fiji Islands, South Pacific. His travel stories and photos have appeared in a variety of print and online publications.
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