Day 15 — The Beautiful Alps of Japan
Summer in Japan, Summer for a Mountaineer
For many mountaineers, summer in Japan is one of the most hectic and fast-paced seasons. Japan is one of the most mountainous countries in the world, with 23 mountains over 3,000 meters high. In winter, these so-called alpine mountains are closed off by massive amounts of snow. The snow lingers from as early as September to as late as July, so normal climbers can only visit these mountains for a short time during summer. This is why many climbers make weekly trips to the high mountains during the short summer period. People who are obsessed with mountains are called “Yamaya / 山屋” in Japan. In this article, I would like to share a little bit of the appeal of the Northern Alps, one of the most famous mountain massifs in Japan.
The North Alps
The Northern Alps is a huge mountainous region that spans Toyama, Niigata, Gifu, and Nagano prefectures in Japan. Together with the Central Alps and the Southern Alps, the North Alps are commonly called the “Japan Alps”. The name “Japan Alps” originates from the book “Guide to Japan” in 1881 in which William Gowland, a British mining engineer who surveyed the Hida Mountains, and referred to the mountains and surrounding area as the “Japan Alps” in reference to the European Alps.
The North Alps was formed by a combination of volcanic activity and fault movements and forms a vast mountainous region of 150 km from north to south and 2.5 km from east to west.
The highest mountain in the North Alps is Mt.Oku Hotaka Dake (3,190m), and there are many other mountains in the North Alps, including 11 mountains over 3,000m. Here, I will introduce three of the most attractive mountains.
Mt.Yarigatake / 槍ヶ岳
Located in the southern part of the North Alps, Mt.Yarigatake is the fifth highest mountain in Japan at 3,180 meters. As its name suggests, its peak is pointed like a spear(yari). The most common way to reach Yarigatake is to start from Kamikouchi, one of the gateways to the North Alps, and take a two-day route called Yarisawa. On the shoulder of Mt. Yarigatake, there is a mountain hut called Yarigatake Sanso, which warmly welcomes climbers and watches over their safety during the summer season every year.
Mt. Yarigatake is one of the mountains that climbers admire because of its cool appearance. The view of Mt. Yarigatake from Yarisawa is always inspiring. It’s not easy to climb, with a long ladder just below the summit. However, the feeling of accomplishment you get when you reach the top is worth it.
Mt.Shirouma-dake / 白馬岳
Mt. Shirouma-dake is a 2,932-meter-high mountain located in the northern part of the North Alps. Hakuba Village, at the foot of Mt. Hakuba, is also a prosperous tourist destination, especially in the winter season when skiers from all over the world come to enjoy the high quality of snow.
Mt. Shirouma-dake, Mt. Hakuba Shakushidake, and Mt.Hakuba Yarigatake are collectively called Hakuba Sanzan (three mountains), and each of them has its own unique appearance. Mt. Shirouma-dake is the highest of the three. In the valley on the east side, there is the Hakuba Daisekikei, the largest snow ravine in Japan, which is formed by the accumulation of huge amounts of snow and avalanches from the surrounding mountains during winter. Most mountaineers climb up the Hakuba Daisekikei to reach the summit. Just below the summit of Mt. Shirouma-dake, there is Japan’s largest mountain lodge “Hakuba Sanso” with a capacity of 1,000 people.
The attraction of Mt.Shirouma-dake is the abundance of alpine plants. A wide variety of plants are in full bloom, including Haksan-Ichige, Uruppu-so, and Tinguruma. There are many mountain lodges and tent sites on the mountain, one of which even has a hot spring. My strong recommendation is the cake set available at Hakuba Sanso. The cake you eat while admiring the spectacular view may have a different taste from the one you get in a city.
Tsurugidake / 剱岳
At 2,999 meters above sea level, Tsurugidake is one of the most dangerous mountains for mountaineers to climb. The steepness of the mountain overwhelms visitors and is called “the edifice of rocks and snow” by climbers.
This is the mountain that inspired me to start climbing. I saw the movie “Tsurugidake: Ten no ki” and was intrigued by the mountain’s shape. Three years later after watching it, I reached the summit for the first time. At the base of Tsurugidake, there is a campground called Tsurugisawa Campsite where you can see Tsurugidake right in front of you.
The beauty of Tsurugidake from the campsite will never fade from my memory. Tsurugidake is beautiful to look at but is especially difficult to climb. The route, which takes about seven hours from the campsite to the top and back, is mostly rocky. The mountain wears out the feelings of climbers more than their physical strength. However, the reward is definitely a great sense of fulfillment when you reach the summit and descend safely.
Japan’s natural beauty
The mountains introduced here are just a few examples. There is still much beautiful nature left in Japan, including the North Alps. It is a pity that photographs can only convey one-millionth of charm.
When it comes to mountain climbing, there are many factors that can help you grow as well as enjoy the beauty of nature. I can’t deny the fact that mountain climbing is hard. However, there is more to it than that, and that is why “Yamaya / 山屋” cannot help but go into the mountains, despite the hardships. I encourage you to start with Mt. Takao in Tokyo and immerse yourself in Japan’s nature.
This article is part of the 2021 HENNGE Advent Calendar. An Advent calendar is a special calendar used for counting down the days till Christmas. 2021 HENNGE Advent Calendar presents one article by one HENNGE member per day for 25 days until Christmas, 2021
