Men’s Fashion Week : Is the man a woman like any other?

Crédit : Jacquemus PE19 CNN / Getty Images

Yesterday again, women took a more important place than men in the world of fashion and haute couture.

But this has changed with the arrivals of the Superstar Artistic Directors such as Virgil Abloh, Kim Jones or Hedi Slimane, respectively named at head of Louis Vuitton, Dior and Céline men’s collections.

Men have always existed in fashion, with a style previously overrepresented: the Italian dandy one. Regardless, we could still find it at Pitti Uomo, the famous men fashion salon in Florence.

Dandies at Pitti Uomo

A multiple masculinity Artistic Directors are defining

But what is the male client looking for today? And above all, who is he? Men, like women, have multiple persona. There is not one, but many of them.

It seems that the debate about femininity that animated the world of fashion in previous seasons is widening by questioning now the notion of masculinity.

Indeed, the issue of gender takes a very important place among creators, and if some have adopted genderfluid trend in recent seasons, such as Gucci, Vetements or Andrea Crews who offer unisex collections and scrolls men and women together, others redefine man to their ways.

Vetements SS 2019 show

Palomo Spain, for example, dresses men with sequined dresses and vaporous blouses. The latter, who saw his popularity explode the day Beyoncé posted the presentation’s picture of his twins wearing a dress Palomo Spain, signed this year the costumes of the queer ballet of Ivan Perez, the Male Dancer.

Palomo Spain AW 2018/2019 show

But at a time when men’s fashion is moving in unison towards an non-gender trend, some, like Jacquemus, are going the opposite way.

The one of virility.

“Le Gadjo”, the first Jacquemus men show

These multiple masculinities are especially evident on Instagram, which acts as a sounding board for previously unseen micro-communities. Instagram boosts true minor aesthetic trends, such as London’s non-binary Art School London queer label, which end up becoming true Fashion Week trends later, such as the Man SS 2019 Margiela fashion show, where models proudly wore light dresses and corsets nylon.

Men’s Fashion Week on Instagram

On Instagram besides, the Men’s Fashion Week, which long remained in the shadow of his female counterpart, just ended and made a lot of noise.

Indeed, Kim Jones’ first shows for Dior, Jacquemus for his own brand and Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton were highly anticipated.

The attractiveness of the Men’s shows was also felt on social media. Our Artificial Intelligence detected a growing participation of influencers we follow during the Men’s Fashion Week.

Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton Debut

The prize for media coverage goes to Virgil Abloh who presented his first collection for Louis Vuitton Homme.

A huge success, as always for the friend of Kanye West who was also one of the first to rethink the cloakroom of the man of today.

He gave a new meaning to the urban man who is no longer only the superior with the neat look and moccasins waxed but the slasher (just like Virgil Abloh himself who is a designer, architect, DJ and artist) who prefers to be confortable in his sneakers to jump from one subway to another.

Note also the many reposts of the minishorts from the Prada and Fendi shows and the message bag “IT’S VERSACE, NOT VERSACHEE” clarifying the pronunciation of the brand Versace.

the “IT’S VERSACE, NOT VERSACHEE !” bag

Now, we should just wait for the proposal that Hedi Slimane will make at Céline at the next Men’s Fashion Week.

All eyes are on him to know what will be his definition of the Céline man, a positioning that we will closely follow at Heuritech through our analysis of social networks.


Heuritech empowers fashion teams to monitor in real time both products and trends through cutting-edge image recognition technology applied on millions of social media images every day. If you want to know more, get in touch at info@heuritech.com

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