Introducing Hiwaga.
Driving Sustainability Through Fabric Creation.
It is estimated that each year, we produce between 80 to 100 billion pieces of clothing.
Many of those clothes are derived from synthetic fabrics such as polyester. From the crude oil used to harvest it to the billions of microfibers released because of it, synthetic fabrics are extremely detrimental to the environment.
That is why the fashion industry has begun to pivot back towards more natural fabrics. Cotton, a fabric derived from the cotton plant has become the face of the sustainable fashion industry. Each year, 27 million tons of cotton is produced, helping to account for 40% of the world’s clothing. As American Academy-nominated costume designer, Collen Atwood said:
I grew up in the age of polyester. When I got to touch real silk, cotton and velvet, the feel of nonsynthetic fabrics blew me away. I know it’s important how clothing looks, but it’s equally important how it feels on your skin.
However, the demand for cotton undermines its environmental costs, particularly in relation to water.
Cotton: A Deep Dive Into Production
As of April 2021, the global cotton process has used over 79 billion tons of water. This hefty amount of water usage can be attributed to both the growing process and manufacturing techniques.
Growing Process
Grown in humid subtropical areas like India, cotton inherently requires more water than other plants. It is very susceptible to stress when lacking water, affecting its ability to grow.
For 7 to 9 months, farmers must constantly water cotton in order to ensure a large supply for retailers. To achieve this, farmers install supplemental irrigation to carry throughout the field in order to stabilize the crop. One of many includes low energy precision applications and sprinklers.
However, the bulk of the water supply stems from its peak months. In planting cotton around spring, farmers are expected to prepare for July, where temperatures increase substantially along with the need for water supply.
Cotton’s constant need for water has severely affected the climate of areas that it’s grown in. With cotton production increasing in central Asia, farmers turned to the Aral Sea for more water supply. However, this led to the 4th largest lake in the world eventually drying up and was described by the United Nations as “one of the largest ecological catastrophes of our time”.
Manufacturing Techniques
The cotton plant can be described as a flimsy plant that can easily be blown in the wind. This causes massive stress to farmers who understand that in order to successfully produce cotton, the stem cannot be damaged.
To avoid this, techniques such as the conservation tillage and no-till system are implemented. Still, the cotton produced is quite delicate and must be made more durable in order to be used in clothing. Before finishing the cotton fabric, various materials are added to make it stronger and long-lasting for the customer.
This process is partially responsible for the millions of microplastics that are released into our bodies of water(e.g. lakes, oceans, rivers) each year. Most consumers are unaware that washing their clothing can cause the microplastics to slowly fall off. According to One Green Planet, “There are estimates of anywhere from a few thousand fibers in a single load of laundry to as much as 10 or 12 million fibers per a load of laundry”. Because our current filters are unable to capture these microscopic plastics, 35% of primary microplastics (which come from clothing) are responsible for water pollution.
Introducing: Hiwaga
Hiwaga is a sustainable fashion company focused on making cotton fabric more environmentally friendly. Our vision is to drive a future where the fashion industry works to protect the environment, not work against it. We believe that problem with cotton’s water pollution stems from its genetic makeup.
This is why we will use gene editing to re-adjust the cotton seed’s structures. This will focus on both decreasing its water usage and increasing its stability.
1. First Edit For Water Usage
To decrease water usage, we first edit the stomata of the cotton plant, a tiny array of pores in plant tissue that aid with gas exchange. By increasing the levels of a photosynthetic protein in the stomata called PsbS, the cotton plant will conserve its own water. The plant will be “tricked” into partially closing its pores, conserving 25% of its water.
If our cotton seeds were grown instead, 19/79 billion tons of water would be saved. This could provide the entire population of China (1.398 billion) with drinking water for over 2 years.
This process mimics a similar study conducted by the University of Illinois.
2. Second Edit For Stability
The second edit will focus on increasing the plant’s stability through readjusting the repressors. Found within the secondary cell walls (SCWs) made of cellulose, there are 2 different types of proteins: NAC and MYB. Both have a designated repressor that can be edited to conduct more SCW biosynthesis.
In creating more biosynthesis, more cellulose is created, which will strengthen the cotton. This will remove the need for incorporating materials that shed microplastics when washed.
This process was inspired by research conducted by Ohio University.
3. Working With Farmers
Once both edits are done, the cotton seed will be packaged and sent to our main customers, cotton farmers.
Side Effects?
Following the research outlined by both the University of Illinois and Ohio, our team has hypothesized that there will be minimal to no side effects for the cotton. Our next step as a company is to begin testing this theory to ensure that the cotton plant is not affected.
The fashion industry needs to pioneer an era of true sustainability. At Hiwaga, we strive to create a future where the fashion industry works to protect the environment, not work against it.
For any inquiries, please contact hiwagainfo@gmail.com.
