Meet the Mountain Man
The Cordillera mountain range in the Philippines is a little-explored region in an archipelago- country known for its pristine, white sand beaches. The roads that traverse it are perilous and are often inundated with landslides. But to travel to this remote area is a treat — the cool air serves as a respite from the tortuous tropical weather, and the mountains are almost magical, as if they both nurture you, and keep profound secrets.
We drive through the winding roads, and a fog seeps in. One can’t see more than a metre ahead of us. For those with an overactive imagination, or an affinity for the creepy, it feels like a scene straight out of a horror movie. But for Mark Bryan Grey, who considers the Cordillera mountains his adopted home, it is nothing extraordinary.
Mark Bryan Grey, or Koi, as he is affectionately called, is a bit of a legend in the Philippine mountaineering world. His occupation on Facebook reads as Adventure Designer for Expedition Support, an outfit that creates customised outdoor itineraries in the Philippines. He wears his hair in long dreadlocks (“Look, it’s Bob Marley!” a bystander screamed as we hiked our way behind the waterfalls); has a slight build; and moves unassumingly in the urban shopping mall where we regroup after a trip. “Naiingayan ako,” he says in the vernacular. “I find it noisy,” he declares — in a relatively empty shopping mall whose noise comes from the hum of air-conditioning, the soft buzz of conversation around us, and some piped in music. He is far removed from his element here. “The mountains are my home,” he proclaims.
This young man of 26 already has several achievements packed away. Out of a 30-man expedition, he alone completed the Cordillera Great Traverse, a 444-kilometer trek through the six provinces that cover the expansive mountain range. At that time (back in 2015), the expedition’s aim was to establish a long, scenic and sustainable trail in the Philippines, similar to those found around the world: the Appalachian Trail in the United States; the Great North Walk in Australia, the Drakensberg in South Africa and the Gran Recorrido in Corsica. In essence, Grey completed a trek that no other person has ever walked in its entirety. In 17 days, 4 hours and 10 minutes.
The legends are unending, and almost unnerving (also, quite frankly, very fascinating) for a proclaimed city-dweller like this author: On a trail that would normally take an experienced mountaineer about five hours to hike, Grey usually clocks in around two. He prefers to walk the mountains barefoot; he says he’s more accident-prone when he wears shoes. His nutritional preferences and cure-alls come from experience, and from interacting with the mountain’s natives. Nadine Tengco, a certified nutritionist and a steady hiking companion of Koi’s, relates, “When he and I spoke about superfoods and healing nutrition, he felt validated. Whatever I studied in the UK, he already knew from his experience out in the wild.”
COMMUNING WITH NATURE
Sagada is a mountainous village high up in Mountain Province, in the Cordillera Region. It is a 12 to14-hour drive from Manila, the Philippines’ capital. It’s experiencing a surge in tourism, with visitors flocking there to see the hanging coffins of the local tribespeople; to explore the caves; to hike around its waterfalls and mountain peaks; and to catch the early morning sunrise and its sea of clouds. The surroundings are lush, but its roads are narrow and often clogged with white vans filled with tourists. The route heading to the remote municipality is riddled with traffic jams; we are approximately two hours behind schedule. Grey shudders a bit. “Nagagalit ang bundok,” he says. The mountains are angry. When prompted for a reason, he answers: “Too many people.” I am silent. I somehow both know what he means, and have no idea what he’s talking about.
Here’s a man whose communication with nature is practically intuitive. He believes, however, that this is trait that’s innate in humans-one that we’ve forgotten, with all the technology and fast-paced living that we have today. “Dati alam natin kung uulan, kung babagyo. Yung mga taong bundok, alam pa rin naman nila yun.” We (as a people) used to know when it would rain, when a storm was coming. The tribespeople, they still know.
There are countless articles that tout mindfulness, meditation, relaxation and disconnection as a key element of a balanced life. Modern studies have shown the benefit of nature on one’s mental and physical health: from reduced inflammation to sharper thinking and creativity, from improved vision to restored mental energy.
We did not need instruments or a weather app. We could feel it in the air — that certain heaviness before the weather would change. We would know what time of day it was, how deep into the night we were, without a watch. And yet, we have all forgotten how. We have become too involved with our smartphones, too connected to the Internet, and too enamored with modern conveniences that perhaps we have not remembered how life’s joys can be far too simple: the aroma of green trees; the rushing sound of waves on the shore; the feel of rain drops on one’s skin; and the sight of awe-inspiring vistas.
Keen on exploring the Philippines, away from the usual tourist traps? Contact Expedition Support at philippinewilderness@gmail.com or visit their Facebook page. Photo credits to StudioZag@AsiaTrailMaster.
This story was originally published on Ideiya.
