Tokyo’s Shitamachi, Ever-Popular with Tourists!

Taking a Walk Through Yanaka and the Surrounding Area, where the Charming Townscapes of Old-world Japan Still Survive

by IGNITION Staff

Located in Tokyo’s Shitamachi* district, Yanaka and the surrounding towns of Nezu and Sendagi are popular with foreign tourists, though this comes as somewhat of a surprise to Japanese. With their traditional Japanese houses, shops that have been passed down from generation to generation and friendly residents, these towns embody an idea Japan that tourists want to experience.

*Shitamachi — Meaning “Lower Town”. It’s the local area common people used to live. the neighborhood often considered friendly and traditional, representing the real soul of Tokyo.

Yanaka (Taito ward) and the neighbouring Nezu and Sendagi (Bunkyo ward) are referred to collectively as “Yanesen”, an area famous for preserving a taste of olden day Japan.

One of the main attractions of Yanka is that it is within walking distance of Ueno Park, which has many cultural facilities such as the Tokyo University of the Arts, the National Museum of Nature and Science, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, the National Museum of Western Art, the Tokyo Bunka Kaikan, Ueno Zoo and more.

From the Taisho period — which began over 100 years ago — to the beginning of the Showa age, the atmosphere of old Japan is preserved in Yanesen’s buildings. The layout of the area itself dates back even further, to the Edo period. The fact that the towns didn’t suffer fire damage after the Great Kanto Earthquake and that they escaped bombing during the Great Tokyo Air Raid of the Pacific War are two major contributing factors to the area’s historic atmosphere.

The literary masters of the Meiji period, such as Mori Ougai, Natsume Souseki, Koda Rohan and others who recorded the age in their writing loved Yanaka so much that they used it as the setting for many of their works. It still preserves much of the same atmosphere today.

In Yanaka there are lots of narrow streets and alleyways lined with old, tiled-roof houses and shops that have continued doing business for many years. Also, in the temple district -

_ — , there are temples that have been standing for over 80 years. Throughout the country, the majority of old-style towns were lost during Japan’s period of economic growth, but a touch of the past still remains in this area.

— _The majority of temples destroyed in the 1657 Great Fire of Meireki were reconstructed in Yanaka, so it has a full-scale temple district.-

Tennoji temple

The area is famous for the large variety of temples scattered throughout. Heading towards Yanaka cemetery from the JR Nippori station, you find Tennoji temple.

There are also lots of cats in Yanaka. As residents treat cats with respect and care, you will find the tame creatures popping up in every corner of the area, which most visitors find charming. There are also cat-themed shops at every turn, so Yanaka is sure to be a fun for all cat-lovers.

You’ll soon come across soundly-sleeping cats in the temple grounds on sunny days.

Yanaka cemetery is located near JR Nippori station. The huge cemetery is lined with cherry blossom trees on both sides. It contains the graves of many well-known people including Yoshinobu Tokugawa, the last shogun of the Tokugawa government.

Leaving the cemetery brings you back to the hustle and bustle of the town. The streets are lined with long-established Japanese confectionary shops, cafes and art-galleries — all perfect for taking a short rest.

“SCAI the Bathhouse” is one building that is slightly out of kilter with the townscape; it was originally a public bathhouse, but has been renovated into an art gallery. It is one of the leading art galleries in Japan, a country that is working to promote its artists worldwide.”

This shop, with “Ogyochi” written on its sign in large letters, sells the famous dessert of the same name from Taiwan. It is not commonly available in Japan.”

Diagonally opposite Ogyochi is a building with an air of history about it. It is a Japanese confectionary shop that was established over 80 years ago.

Going even further down the street you will find the Shitamachi Museum. The splendid Japanese-style buildings found in the museum grounds are very rare and are characteristic of buildings from the Edo and Meiji periods.

Cedar trees tower above the town.

Miura-Zaka slope. Entering Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi you will find the roads quite hilly.

There are lots of friendly cats about the town. Rather than running away on catching sight of a person, they will approach them.

A typical Shitamachi street. The distance between houses is less than 1 metre.

As the Shitamachi district has such a long history, there are many speciality foods in the area. Nezu’s taiyaki (fish-shaped cake) shops are so popular that there are always queues.

A famous dessert shop. Most customers come for the homemade ice-cream and anmitsu (a traditional Japanese dessert made from cubes of agar jelly).

The Nezu-jinja shrine is located close to Nezu train station. It has been designated an important cultural asset.

Within the vast grounds of Nezu-jinja shrine lies the Otonome Nari shrine. The rows of red tori gates are one of its distinguishing characteristics.

Near the Nezu-Jinja shrine there is a long, meandering road known as the “snake road”.

A short walk from JR Nippori station in the opposite direction from Yanaka cemetery will bring you to an area called “Yanaka Ginza”. It is an old-fashioned shopping street lined with privately owned shops that have been there for generations. Despite being only 170 metres in length, there are about 70 shops crowded into the space. The lively atmosphere makes the area very popular, with the streets filled with conversations between shopkeepers and customers, locals and tourists.

The stairs at the entrance to Yanaka Ginza is known as “Yuyake Dandan”. The apex of the stairs is famous for its beautiful views of the setting sun.”

There are lots of old shops near Yanaka Ginza. Pictured is a traditional rice-cracker shop “Yanaka Senbei”.

There are also a large number of temples in the area. The photograph shows Kannonji castle, located in the grounds of Kannonji temple. The castle was built in the Edo period, and is made of alternate layers of tile and soil, which is exceptionally rare.

This slope was named “Fujimi Slope” as it was possible to see Mt. Fuji from the top. While the view has been obstructed in recent years with high-rise building, it is still possible to see Mt. Fuji on clear days.”

Walking from Fujimi Slope towards JR West Nippori station, you reach West Nippori park. It is densely packed with trees, which is rare for a Tokyo park. Local children are often found playing here, as it very spacious and has lots of natural beauty

JR Nippori station is at the bottom of the hill that leads down from the park.

Distinctively Japanese Shitamachi townscapes, interactions with friendly local residents, delicious recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation and more are all to be found in Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi. These three towns are representative of the Shitamachi district and have a unique sense of old Japan about them. They are certainly worth visiting for anyone who wants to experience Japan of the past, untouched by the modern world.

(photo: Daisuke Hayata, translation: Rebecca Bourke)

Originally published at ignition.co.

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