HAD-DINGLI
The ancient village on the edge of a cliff
Perched atop a stretch of cliffs that run for a few kilometres across Malta’s northern coastline, Dingli is a small village with an incredibly colourful history. In fact, although today it’s called home by some 3,600 people, Dingli’s remoteness has allowed its heritage to be left practically untouched for centuries. Stretching to over 200 metres above sea level, many locals and foreigners head here to take in the breathtaking, open views of the Mediterranean Sea and of the tiny nature reserve of Filfla, an islet that contains various protected species of endemic flora and fauna.
Yet few are aware of the secrets stored in the repository of information under their feet. Geologically, for example, the cliffs showcase all the strata of Malta’s rock formation, while the caves and the rockface tell stories that date back to prehistorical times. Indeed, archaeology has unearthed activity here dating back thousands of years including ancient grooves in the rock (known as cart ruts) and chambers believed to have served as Roman baths. Not far away from these sites is also ‘Is-Simblija’, a medieval hamlet that consists of once-repurposed caves and various other structures, like a mill room, a cooking area around a courtyard, and a derelict church believed to be that of St Mary of Callus.
Rather unsurprisingly, churches are a recurring feature in Dingli, and the most prominent one is St Mary’s Parish Church, whose belfries offer the highest viewing point in all the islands. This is also joined by many chapels that dot the area, with the recently-restored St Mary Magdalene Chapel being the most famous. Rebuilt in 1646, the church has become an icon of the cliffs with many photographers featuring it in their work.
If you head here, make sure to check out the small marble plaque from 1777 which reads Non gode l’immunità ecclesiastica (‘This church does not offer sanctuary to troublemakers and outlaws’). This, possibly, points towards Dingli’s darker past when the fear of attacks from pirates was so widespread that many farmers used to spend their nights in caves, which they descended or climbed to using ladders before covering the entrances with tree branches and rubble. Although those threats have subsided, the villagers’ relationship with the surrounding wilderness remains strong, and many venture here to enjoy the beautiful stretches of Maltese countryside. Among these areas is Buskett Gardens, Malta’s largest wooded area where Verdala Palace is located. Commissioned by Grand Master de Verdalle, construction of this three-storey castle began in 1586 and now serves as the summer residence of the President of Malta.
The fact, however, remains that Dingli is not frozen in time, and a recent revival in interest in the locality is changing its landscape. And the best symbol for that is probably the radar tower — erected 79 years ago on the cliffs’ edge — which stands testament to Dingli’s contribution to the creation of modern Malta, particularly through its role in World War II.
