An Ode to Kolkata
The vintage city with yellow taxis
Another day, another walk.
It’s Monday today and a state-wide holiday where I live. Durga Puja is here in Kolkata. The city is all dressed and lit up. It’s a sensory overload
Stunning pandals with otherworldly craftsmanship and storytelling decorate every street corner.
Each pandal is extremely well-thought-out. This year, I came across unique themes like the Ice Age, sustainability, Chandrayaan 2 (India’s recent successful Lunar mission), child trafficking, menstruation, afforestation and replicas of Disney World, Hogwarts and the London Bridge.
I can never forget this one pandal I saw last year- Starry Night but made out of jeans. The entire blue background of Van Gogh’s most famous painting was created using different shades of blue jeans.
The entrance to the pandals are lit up with lights and lanterns. Hawkers are selling their wares. From street food, exotic beverages and chai to handcrafted furniture, cheap plastic toys and one-of-a-kind local jewellery and home decor, Kolkata is buzzing. Creativity is on display at every corner.
Everywhere you go, you can hear loudspeakers playing soothing Bengali songs and the police blowing their whistle in an attempt to keep the enthusiastic pandal hoppers in check.
The roads are lined with bamboo to form a sort of queue for people to move. Some street lanes have blocked all vehicles to allow people to enjoy this once-a-year, most-awaited affair.
Small parks have been converted into Mela grounds or fairs with stalls galore and adrenaline-spiking rides- the Giant Wheel, merry-go-round, Break Dance, and my-fair-lady, to name a few. The balloon shooting booth gives people a chance to show off their aim by shooting at balloons stuck to the back of the booth using large rifles.
The food everywhere is top-notch, considering Kolkata was named among the top 11 culinary destinations in the WORLD! You can find Muri, Papri Chaat, Ice-cream, Momos, chai, Chuski (like snow cones but with very different, albeit complex flavours) and of course, Puchka, an explosion of crispiness, potatoes and spicy water in your mouth.
Another thing that engulfs the streets are advertisements and large flex hoardings.
No matter where you go or at what time, during this week of Durga Puja, you’ll find huge crowds everywhere. Especially after midnight. Everyone is on the streets, all dressed up like the city itself.
People come from across the country and the world only to experience Durga Puja.
Kolkata is often called the Indian metropolitan city that is asleep or lazy.
And I get that. It’s not as advanced as Bombay or Delhi or Chennai or even Bangalore. It is not quick to adopt trends.
But it is developed in its own way. It is the romanticized city. The vintage city with yellow taxis.
Kolkata is brimming with art, literature, culture and heritage. No other place has preserved its heritage the way Kolkata has.
In no other place do artisans spend months creating these exceptionally detailed idols.
No city spends millions on the creation of extravagant pandals.
No state coordinates the way Kolkata does- coming up with well-thought-out themes for each pandal, new ones each year while ensuring there is no repetition.
Along with being a cultural extravaganza, Durga Puja is solely responsible for generating lakhs of employment opportunities. Each pandal is sponsored by some large corporation or cooperative society. They, in turn, employ artisans, construction workers, and people to man the stalls and manage the crowds.
One of the rural artisans mentioned that the income he generates from Durga Puja helps him sustain his family for about 6 months!
It is also the biggest shopping season (kind of like Christmas in the West). As a result, local markets see an uptick in sales.
But above all, it brings happiness to people. Roaming the streets together, marveling at the pandals, posing for pictures, buying new clothes, and eating out.
It’s like a state-wide party where there’s something for everyone.
Have you been to Kolkata during the Pujas? If not, you must at least once.
If you enjoyed reading my thoughts and experiences, please engage and let me know what you think in the comments below. I look forward to hearing from you.
