The Benefits and Neuroscience of Essential Oils in the Cosmetic and Perfume Industries
Although there is a demand for cheaper and more diverse synthetic fragrances, natural products and their application with various benefits catch the eye of many researchers. This is the case with essential oils, which can offer incredible benefits for the skin or create a unique and long-lasting smell.
The main components of essential oils are various types of terpenes (usually monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes), chemical compounds that are identified by isoprene units. Although terpenes are widely used as a medicine, providing numerous benefits, such as antibacterial, antivirus, and even anti-cancer, however, it has played a significant role in cosmetics all around the world for millennia.
There is no surprise that essential oils would take the lead at this time when people start to focus on clean living, veganism, and cruelty-free products and start embracing nature with every gift it can offer. Many cosmetic companies are trying to create a great product for the skin and make it suitable as a self-care ritual for de-stressing, creating calming and grounding effect.
Perfume composition
Now, let’s focus on understanding how perfumes work and how terpenes in essential oils contribute.
Imagine that you have a small bottle of perfume in your hand. When you open the bottle and spray on your neck, you sense a particular smell that reminds you of cinnamon or gardenia. If you leave it for an hour, you can identify a completely different floral or spicy odour.
Why is it?
Essential oils, according to their odour, are classified as top, middle and base notes.
Top notes are the most volatile, which is why the first impression of the perfume is from this type of essential oil. Unfortunately, it lasts only for 5–10 min. Essential oils that are categorised include bergamot, juniper, cinnamon, and gardenia.
Middle notes tend to be either floral or spicy and last about 1 hour. These include geranium, lavender, jasmine, and clove.
And finally, the most important part — the base notes. These notes create a sense of depth in the perfume, last the longest, and include myrrh, vanilla and frankincense. If the top note was a selling note during an impulsive buy, base notes are more personal, they are the ones that let you find your style and express how you want to be perceived.
Cosmetics
However, essential oils are used not only in perfumes but also in skin care. As mentioned before, the main component of essential oils is terpenes. They encompass many qualities, one of them — having antibacterial properties. This is beneficial in the cosmetic industry because it can be used as a natural preservative.
After all, essential oils play not only a supporting role but also take a leading role and are used as an active ingredient in the formula. Some essential oils can brighten and tighten the skin, and heal acne. For instance, essential oils from orange promise better skin elasticity, and firmness, and treat scars, acne, and even stretch marks.
Aromatherapy, essential oils, and neuroscience
The fact that we have so many options to incorporate essential oils into many aspects of our routines encourages us to acknowledge the effect it creates on our brain and body. Many studies suggested that essential oils have an impact on the HPA axis, sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems, and neurotransmitter systems such as serotonergic, dopaminergic, and GABAergic pathways. Besides these aspects, it is important to mention the limbic system — the part of the brain that is responsible for our memory and emotions.
It is well recognised, that the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, the sympathetic nervous system, and the efferent vagus nerve are the main contributors that create the response of the central nervous system to stress. Triggers stimulate the release of corticotrophin-releasing-hormone (CHR) in the hypothalamus, which stimulates the secretion of the adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) in the pituitary gland, then the release of glucocorticoids in the adrenal glands are induced, which includes cortisol — the stress hormone.
Eventually, persistent HPA activation and cortisol concentration going through the roof increase the reuptake of serotonin — the happy hormone. As a result, we get high concentrations of cortisol and low concentrations of serotonin. This is the stress response.
Furthermore, stressors induce the release of adrenaline and noradrenaline in the adrenal gland and stimulate the release of proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin — 1, interleukin-6, and tumour necrosis factor-alpha. Cytokines can cross the blood-brain barrier and alter the metabolism of serotonin and dopamine. The dysregulation of these neurotransmitters contributes to depression.
Now, the question that many people would ask is — how can we interfere with this mechanism? Here come essential oils backed with science.
Studies showed that Frankincense, ylang-ylang, neroli, bergamot, sweet orange, geranium, and rose essential oils can influence the HPA axis by reducing glucocorticoid levels, which creates a calming effect. In addition, bergamot, lemongrass and lavender can activate the GABAergic system, GABA neurotransmitter slows down the brain and is associated with relaxation. No wonder, why lavender is marketed in many de-stressing products. On the other hand, rosemary, clary sage and roman chamomile induce the dopaminergic system, which could increase focus, cognitive performance and overall confidence.
Too much of a good thing
Regardless of the benefits, it is significant to understand how to use a natural product with essential oils and how to take care of it. First and foremost, essential oils can lead to irritation if used directly on the face, it has to be formulated with other products and in the right percentage concentrations to get all the benefits without causing any harm. Secondly, to avoid oxidation of essential oils and enjoy the odour longer, the product should be in dark bottles, in a dark and cold environment.
So, if you came to this article with disbelief in aromatherapy and the benefits of essential oils — here is your answer. It may not be such a big difference that could cure your depression or anxiety, make you think clearer, improve memory, and so on. But one small step after another, just a slight improvement in your routine could be the major result that you are looking for.
