The History of Carhartt WIP: From Workwear to Streetwear
How a century-old clothing brand became a subcultural phenomenon
Carhartt WIP is a brand that has successfully bridged the gap between workwear and streetwear, creating its own collections based on the original Carhartt workwear, while engaging with the subcultures that have embraced it. In this article, we will explore how Carhartt WIP came to be, and how it has evolved over the years.
The origins of Carhartt
To understand the history of Carhartt WIP, we need to go back to the roots of Carhartt, the American workwear brand that was founded by Hamilton Carhartt in 1889. Hamilton Carhartt started his business with only four sewing machines and five employees, producing overalls in duck and denim for railroad workers under the slogan “honest value for an honest dollar”.
Some of the first products that Carhartt introduced are still in production today, such as the bib overall and the Chore Coat, which became iconic pieces of the Carhartt collection. These products were made from durable fabrics such as duck cloth (also known as canvas) and denim, which were ideal for tough working conditions.
Carhartt expanded its production and distribution throughout the 20th century, supplying workers with reliable and well-made garments for various industries and projects, such as hunting, farming, construction and even military uniforms during WWI and WWII. Carhartt also experimented with different product lines, such as sports apparel, casual jackets and jeans in the 1960s. By 1989, Carhartt celebrated its centennial anniversary as a workwear titan.
The birth of Carhartt WIP
While Carhartt was enjoying its success in the American market, a new opportunity emerged in Europe. In 1989, Edwin Faeh, a Swiss designer who had been importing American products to Europe under the title “All American Concept”, started to introduce Carhartt to the European market. He saw a potential for Carhartt to appeal to a different audience of consumers who valued refined design and quality, while still respecting the heritage and authenticity of the brand.
Faeh established Work in Progress (WIP) as the exclusive distributor of Carhartt in Europe, and began to develop his own collections based on original Carhartt workwear. He adapted and modified some of the classic styles to fit the European taste and size, while also introducing new designs and collaborations with other brands and artists. He also opened the first Carhartt WIP store in London in 1997, followed by more than 80 stores worldwide today.
The rise of Carhartt WIP
One of the key factors that contributed to the success of Carhartt WIP was its connection with various subcultures that adopted the brand as their own. In fact, this process had already begun in the US in the 1980s, when hip-hop artists in New York City and Los Angeles started to wear Carhartt for its robust qualities and utilitarian aesthetic. Some of the seminal figures that rocked Carhartt were 2Pac, Eazy-E, Nas and the Beastie Boys, who influenced the oversized style of ’90s hip-hop.
This trend soon spread to Europe, where Carhartt WIP became a staple for underground music and cultural scenes, such as rap, graffiti, skateboarding and street art. One of the early examples of this was the 1995 French movie La Haine, which featured Carhartt WIP clothing worn by the protagonists who represented urban youth culture. Since then, Carhartt WIP has continued to support and collaborate with various artists and communities that share its vision and values.
The present and future of Carhartt WIP
Today, Carhartt WIP is more than just a clothing brand. It is also a platform for creative expression and social engagement. It has its own skate team and music department, while supporting an array of artists and releasing various publications. It has also worked with a number of like-minded collaborators over the years, such as A.P.C., Converse, Fragment Design, Junya Watanabe, Nike, Underground Resistance and Motown.
Carhartt WIP has managed to stay relevant and innovative by constantly evolving and reinventing itself, while staying true to its roots and principles. It has become a subcultural phenomenon that transcends boundaries and genres, and a testament to the power of quality and authenticity.
