The Travel Agents Guide to Iceland
The Land of Fire and Ice
Table of Contents
- Intro
- Weather
- Itinerary
- Tips and things we wish we had time to do.
- Price Breakdown
- Outro
Intro
In October 2019, Brian and I traveled with friends to Iceland. There are many ways to see Iceland, one of the most popular is to experience the Golden Circle area of the country while on a layover for a day or two. Another way is to travel the country’s single highway, Route 1 aka the Ring Road. This travel guide will not be an extensive guide to the country but will follow Brian and I’s experience in the country as we spent 7 days traversing the South Coast and the country’s capital of Reykjavik.
Little Icelandic language lesson for you:
- Foss means falls, so think waterfalls.
- Jokull mean ice, so think a glacier
- Vik means bay, so Reykjavik means “Smokey Bay”
- Fjall means mountain
- Sarlon means lagoon
- Lastly, fjara means the beach
Weather
Iceland does have four seasons, however, Fall and Spring are more of a month-long season as opposed to the 3–4 that we Americans are used to. May to September are the warmer months, while November-March is when things get much colder, and roads around the country may close due to weather. Tourist season is at a high in the warmer months due to comfortable temperatures. During the warmer months, visitors will experience long days as sunsets can last from 9 pm to 2–3 am. In contrast, the colder months offer longer nights with a great opportunity to see the Northern Lights. Visitors to Iceland in the Summer months will not see the Northern Lights. Temperatures in the month of October can range from the low 30’s to the high 40’s depending on where you are within the country. However, prepare for temperatures closer to 0 due to wind chill. In some parts of the country, one might experience hurricane-force winds. On top of this, October is the rainiest month in Iceland so do not expect snow. However, on our trip, we did not experience any rain. It is worth saving the following site as it is a great resource for daily weather information in the country. Iceland can experience some extreme weather differences depending on the area you are traveling in.
Click here: Vedur
Itinerary
Day 1
Our group landed at Keflavik International Airport (KEF) at 6 am in the morning. We had arranged to rent a large van that could comfortably seat 6 people and their luggage. Immediately upon exiting the airport we were hit by the brutal cold of the country. Our itinerary starts with a long drive to the area of Hof, where our hotel Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon is located. This drive is approximately 4.5 hrs long. We decided it would be best if we started our trip out east and end our trip in Reykjavik so that we were closer to the airport instead of having to drive 5 hours from Hof to the airport at the end of our trip. Along the way, we will stop at various points to sightsee including the village of Vik, the black sand beach of Reynisfjara, and popular filming location Dyrhólaey.
The Village of Vik is the first stop on our trip. Vik is a small village that many stop by for lunch and to see the popular sights of Reynisfjara and Dyrhólaey. We recommend stopping by the Restaurant Sudur Vik. The restaurant offers a great homey environment and fantastic food. You will quickly learn that the food in Iceland is top-notch. After lunch, you will want to stop by and visit the world-class beach of Reynisfjara, the most well-known black sand beach in all of Iceland. You will see sprawling basalt columns, as well as Reynisdrangar. Legend has it that these rocky stacks were once trolls turned to stone by a man enacting revenge on the trolls for kidnapping and killing his wife.
Before continuing on our trek to the hotel we stopped at Dyrhólaey, home to the historic lighthouse Dyrhólaeyjarviti and a 120-meter long rock promenade. It is here that visitors can see the Dyrhólaey Arch, the volcano Katla in the distance, and puffins in the summer months. Dyrhólaey is a famous filming location for big projects such as the television show Game of Thrones.
From here we only have a two-hour drive to our hotel Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. We arrived at dark so we could not see the majestic Vatnajokull glacier in the background of our hotel. Vatnajokull is the largest glacier in Europe. Inside the hotel, guests enjoy heated bathroom tiles, rooms with views of Iceland’s otherworldly landscape, and the option to dine in Fosshotel’s Restaurant. We recommend checking out the restaurant for a delicious meal and an opportunity to talk to many of the workers of whom are usually from different European countries seeking employment opportunities in Iceland. It is worth noting that Fosshotel’s restaurant was the most expensive dining experience we had while in Iceland. However, the price per room at Fosshotel starts at 99 USD.
Day 2
We begin our day with breakfast at Fosshotel, which is about an additional $20 per day. For Iceland, this is a pretty good price. We make our way to Skaftafell National Park, a 50-minute drive west into the even larger Vatnajokull National Park (yes there is a National Park within a National Park)
Once at Skaftafell we begin our 3.4-mile hike to see Hundafoss and the famous Svartifoss. Although the trail is paved, the hike is on a steep incline. Be prepared for a moderately difficult hike for those inexperienced with hiking. Note, there are many different trails within the park but the one we are doing is the trail to Svartifoss. Once at the end, you will be rewarded with seeing the gorgeous waterfall surrounded by basalt columns. It is here that the architect for the church Hellgrimskirkja found inspiration. Can you see it?
We make our way to our next destination, Fjallsarlon. Fjallsarlon is a short 40 min drive from Skaftafell and is one of the great glacial lagoons in the region. It is also a great place to grab lunch. For us, this was the coldest point in the trip. We were met with fierce winds that made it difficult to walk at times. However, you are rewarded with a great experience. You get to get up close and personal to a glacial lagoon. If you are hungry you can grab a bite to eat at the Frost Cafe, a self-service restaurant. The average plate is about $25.
We continued our glacial lagoon sight-seeing tour by visiting Jokulsarlon, the most popular glacial lagoon in Iceland. It is also the deepest lake in Iceland, with depths up to 850 feet. You may also get to see wild seals! Like many places in the country, the lagoon boasts a long history of being an established filming location for films like the James Bond franchise as well as Batman Begins. Visitors can book a cruise trip around the lagoon for around $50. Please note, that if the wind or weather is too extreme they may cancel within a few hours notice.
Close to Jokulsarlon is the famous “Diamond Beach”. Diamond beach is where the icebergs of Vatnajokull break off into Jokulsarlon and make their way out into the ocean and break apart. The remnants of these icebergs land on the black sand beach of Breiðamerkursandur, forming diamond-like icebergs. Hence the name Diamond Beach.
TIP: We almost missed this location, thinking that the diamond beach was the beach of Jokulsarlon. It is not. Diamond beach is just a few hundred feet away on the opposite side of the road.
By now, we were pretty frigid and wanted to experience the geothermal spa culture of Iceland. We decided to travel to Hoffell Hot tubs. These hot tubs were man-made tubs heated by the geothermal springs nearby. The added benefit of being surrounded by giant mountains made the area much more interesting. Sadly, when we arrived they were closed. We did get to see some wild reindeer nearby.
Determined to experience warm water outside we decided to make our way to the Harbor town of Hofn, where we got to experience one of the coolest experiences that we had on the entire trip. We landed on the idea of checking out the local swimming center, a building equipped with a steam room and several hot tubs (that were outside). First, we grabbed dinner at the restaurant next door called Cafe Hornid, not to be confused with the one in Reykjavik. I recommend dinner here if you find yourself in the area, we got to eat a Reindeer burger and get warm. The average cost of food here was about $25.
After dinner, we made our way to Sundlaug Hornafjarðar, the local swimming center. Please note, in Europe people get naked in front of each other in locker rooms. There’s really no place to privately change like here in America. So know that. The swimming center had a steam room inside, and then two swimming pools outside, two hot tubs outside, and an ice pool….outside. What made this such a cool experience was that it was the first time on the trip we talked to local Icelanders. Not only that, but we got to experience a legit Icelandic cultural activity. As we sat there in the hot tub our hair started to freeze but we were finally warm. We got a great chance to talk to locals who owned B&B’s or who were in the film industry as extras. We met one of the stuntmen for Netflix’s The Midnight Sky. If you are looking for a unique experience, I HIGHLY recommend checking out a swimming center in Iceland. We made our way back to Fosshotel for the night.
Day 3
We start the day by checking out of the hotel. Our goal today is to see the big sites along the south coast that we missed on our journey on day 1. Our first stop is Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon or Feather Canyon. Feather Canyon was made popular by Justin Beiber’s music video I’ll Show You. If you happen to be staying at Fosshotel, the drive to Feather Canyon is about 1 hrs and 15 min. Feather Canyon is the only location on our guide in which we veer from Route 1. There is only one highway in Iceland and that is Route 1. The other roads that branch off are called “F” Roads. These roads can be closed off during the winter or in extreme weather scenarios due to the fact that some of these roads are barely roads. I mention this because there is a small possibility that the road will be closed. Our van made it okay to Feather Canyon, so this particular F road was no big deal.
TIP: This location is out in the middle of nowhere and there was only one bathroom. It was closed, so we had to backtrack to the nearest town to use the restroom. So, use the restroom in the town before Feather Canyon if you need it.
As we get closer to Reykjavik we make a stop at Skogafoss. One of the largest waterfalls in Iceland. This towering waterfall is home to another legend. Legend has it that there is buried treasure behind the waterfall. Someone almost found it, but the ground caved and the treasure was lost.
The next stop is another famous waterfall called Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is famous for allowing visitors to walk behind it and experience the waterfall in a unique way. There are a few things to note when coming to see Seljalandsfoss. One, there is a “hidden” waterfall tucked away about ¼ mile to ½ mile away from the big waterfall. I highly recommend seeking the waterfall. You will need to walk in the stream into a cave, so be careful of ice if visiting in the colder months. You will need to pass a second tinier waterfall that is outside. The second thing to note is that you do not want to make the mistake of going behind the waterfall when everything is covered in ice. This is something we did, and if not for the four of us using each other to help climb, I would probably still be there.
From here we made our way to our Airbnb in downtown Reykjavik. This last leg is about one hour and 45 minutes by car. We capped our night with some local pizzas at Eldsmiðjan.
Day 4
For us, today is all about relaxing and recovering from the past few days by having a relaxing time in Reykjavik. Our notable highs are visiting Hellgrimskirkja, eating one of the best cinnamon rolls I have ever had at Braud and Co, enjoying endless Icelandic soup at Icelandic Street Food for $17, and going on a hunt for the Northern Lights!
Day 5
Today is what I like to call quintessential Iceland day. It is here that we will visit the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. The Golden Circle has several sites that make it famous but the three most popular are Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss. Check out the map below, for insight on where each attraction is located along the Circle. Note that as of writing this there is no cost to parking at the sites.
As the map suggests, we start off by visiting Thingvellir National Park. It is home to the Silfra Fissure, an area in which the tectonic plates of Europe and North America collide. Visitors can scuba dive down into the nearby waters, step foot in new land created by the tectonic plates, or visit the area where leaders of 30 tribes formed the first European Parliament in 930 AC. One could spend a whole day exploring Thingvellir so be cautious on time and selective on what you want to see and do.
Our next stop along the circle is the farm-to-table restaurant, Efstidualur. Visitors can eat locally produced ice cream, farm-to-table foods, and pet Icelandic Horses.
Near to Efstidualur farm is the blue waterfall Bruarfoss. Off the beaten path, visitors need to park and walk the scenic trail to the waterfall. The hike there and back is about 2–3 hrs in length.
After the long hike, the next stop on the circle is Geysir. Although Geysir is not very active now, the neighboring Strokkur goes off every 5 to 10 minutes. This stop is a quick, albeit neat attraction off the Golden Circle.
Finally, the last stop on the Golden Circle is the mighty Gullfoss. You won’t want to miss out on this waterfall, it is worth the hype.
Personally, I loved that we ended our exhausting day at the Golden Circle with a trip to the Blue Lagoon. It was a great relaxing way to end the day. The Blue Lagoon is the biggest tourist trap in Iceland but honestly, it’s worth going to. The Blue Lagoon is a man-made geothermal hot spring located between Keflavik and Reykjavik. From Gullfoss, the Blue Lagoon is about a two-hour drive. It is not much more than the 1 hour and 40 min drive to Reykjavik. Visitors to the Blue Lagoon get a wristband with the electronic capability to purchase food, beverages, and mud masks while out in the Lagoon. Unlike the swimming center in Hofn, there is a lot more privacy in the locker rooms. Tickets to the Blue Lagoon start at $45 and include a complimentary mud mask as well as a complimentary beverage (wine/beer included).
Day 6
On our 6th day, we opted to take a page from Rick Steve’s book and take the ferry to visit the Westman Islands off the Southern coast near Skogafoss. The Westman Islands offer a unique experience in that you get to visit a pretty isolated area that not many tourists go to. The island was ravaged by a volcano in the 70s and is home to a museum dedicated to that event as well as the volcano itself and Heimaey, the windiest location in all of Europe. However, in our experience, the wind was pretty calm. The Westmans also offer a cool look into the local Icelanders' life. It is also home to a Beluga whale and Puffin sanctuary. We opted to take our van with us so that we could drive around the island and explore. The cost of the ticket was $34 per person. The cost to visit the sanctuary was about $24 per person while the Eldheimar museum was about $18 per person. I recommend checking out Slippurinn for dinner.
Day 7
Our last day in Iceland. We spent our time before our midday flight enjoying the local shopping on Laugavegr street, grabbing another cinnamon roll at Braud and Co, and grabbing a hotdog at the famous Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. (not kosher friendly).
Tips and things we wish we would have done
Tip #1: The biggest tip we can give you is our recommendation that you rent a vehicle and explore Iceland at your own pace. You will see so much more this way.
Tip #2: We did not need to carry any Icelandic Krona with us, we were fine with credit cards the entire trip. However, I recommend keeping some on you just in case. Note: There is the Swedish Krona and the Icelandic Krona, they are different and have a different exchange rate with USD.
Tip #3: If you decide to rent a vehicle and do off-road driving, make sure you get a spare tire and know how to change a flat tire. The F roads of Iceland can be rough to drive on, and it’s not uncommon to need to change your tire after driving the roads.
Things we wished we would have done:
Day trip to Snaefellsjokull Peninsula — About 3 and half hours north of Reykjavik is a popular peninsula that is home to Kirkjufell, the most photographed mountain in all of Iceland. Visitors can explore the landscape as well as enjoy geothermal hot springs.
Laugarvatn Fontana Day Spa — One of the stops on the Golden Circle, the village of Laugarvatn is the site of the popular Fontana Spa. Placed near a body of water with Thingvellir National Park in the background, visitors can experience a Finnish-style Spa and a cheaper experience than that of Blue Lagoon.
Trek to Reykjadalur Valley — the valley is located about 40 minutes east of Reykjavik. Visitors can park their car and hike 2–3 km to the geothermal area of the valley. It is here that many can see active geothermal springs, but be careful as the water here is boiling. Further along the path, you will see wooden paths and platforms where you can climb down into the geothermal river for a relaxing soak in the valley.
Road trip along the entire Ring Road — If I had any idea how much I would enjoy this country, I would have opted to stay much longer and travel the entire Ring Road. In doing so, travelers can visit the same sites we saw along the south coast but also the mighty Vestrahorn in the East Fjords, the hot springs of Myvatn, the Northern city of Akureyri, the marvelous West fjords, and the pristine nature reserve Hornstradir.
Price Breakdown
Flights: $481 from Cleveland to Reykjavik (including baggage and seating choice). As of the time of writing this, the cheapest month to visit Iceland is in October, with a roundtrip cost of $341.
Fosshotel: $145 per room for the Deluxe Double, breakfast included.
Airbnb: $463 per night divided by 6 people. (per person cost of $77)
Gas: For 2021, the price of gas is around $6–7 per gallon. We allotted a budget of $100 per person to cover gas expenses.
Food: This will obviously vary per person per trip but it’s safe to assume the average meal is about $20–25. Grocery store visits are not much cheaper either.
Rental Car: $176 per person for an 8 seater van for 7 days.
Blue Lagoon: $45 per person
GPS and Car Insurance: $23 per person
Westman Islands Visit: $76 per person
- Eldheimer museum: $18 per person
- Ferry Ticket: $34 per person
- Animal Sanctuary: $24 per person
Total per person: $1,355 per person (does not include food)
Outro
Iceland is a truly unique country, rich with nature and exciting landscapes that make one think they are in an alien world. I can not recommend enough that you visit this country, and I wholeheartedly recommend exploring the country by car. Do not be turned off by the fact that the country has the word “Ice” in it. It may be cold at times, but overall it’s an inviting and fantastic country. I hope you enjoyed this guide, and that it helps you plan your next trip to Iceland.
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