An Idea for Your Next Hiking Trip to Sweden !
Hiking the Finnmarksleden — from Loos through Hamra National park
Preface:
Frodo to Sam: “He often used to say there was only one Road; that it was like a great river: its springs were at every doorstep and every path was its tributary. ‘It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out of your door,’ he used to say. ‘You step into the Road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there is no telling where you might be swept off to.” (J. R. R. Tolkien in Lord of the Rings)
Introduction
This article describes a multi-day (2–5) hike from Loos to the Huvudentén Entry of Hamra National Park. The hike is known by the name “Finnmarksleden” and has a length of approximately 50 km. The hike is marked as a “blue” trail on Trailforks. Depending on the conditions it may be more difficult. The hike requires one to bring camping and food supplies. Furthermore, the hike is a through-hike, meaning that it is one-directional. I will provide some guidance, maps and a summary about the experience made on the trail. Any highlights you will find in the final section. Enjoy :)
Location & Maps
Where is Loos and how do I get there? Loos is a small town in Gävleborg County and located about 4 hours north of Stockholm. With a car one can travel to Loos via Gävle on the E4 and then through Edsbyn and Bollnäs. It is also possible to reach Loos with public transportation, but it takes some planning since Loos can only be reached via bus.
Please have a look at the following Google Maps plan to get an idea:
No matter if you go by car or via public transport, from Hamra National park one has to organize a ride back to Loos. Alternatively, it may be a better option to park a car at the destination and then hike to the car.
Now you must be curious to see the map that actually shows the hike? One such map can be found on the website of the Ljusdals Commune.
Let me explain some of the landmarks.
Map1 Loos — Voxnan :
The red point located on Map 1 shows the location of Lotta Boden, a popular café and farm shop in loos. At Lotta Boden you can receive a printed out version of the maps and ask questions about the hike. Also the coffee shop is a great starting point. Next to coffee, pastries and Wifi are available.
The blue point on Map 1 shows the entry point into the hike. You can get on the trail by walking across the road of the ICA grocery store located at the center of the town. Another option to enter the hike is to start at the Loos Kobalt Mine, which is a popular museum and tourist sight. I can highly recommend to take a guided tour through the mine if you have time.
Map 2 Voxnan — Hamra National park:
All purple points on Map 1 & Map 2 show nice places that are available for camping. You can choose other places however if you like. You are also allowed to camp in Hamra National Park (marked by black circle & number 1) except for the section with the ancient trees (marked by black circle & number 2). Make sure to follow the park’s rules about camping, making fire, dogs and fishing. At every entry of the park you will be able to find a detailed hiking map. Additionally, I recommend to take a printed out version of the park’s map:
In total you need at least three maps: Hamra national park’s map, Finnmarksleden map 1 and map 2. It is recommended to also buy the Grönna Kartan, which shows everything more detailed.
Equipment & Safety
While you will be able to find plenty of information on the internet about what should go into you backpack and what you should bring on a multi day hike, I will outline some items specific to the Finnmarksleden.
Weather
The weather in Sweden, particularly in the north and central Sweden can be rough. Even if you hike in the summer it is possible to get into heavy rains or even snow. Therefore ensure to check the weather forecast before you go and always carry gear with you that can keep you warm and dry !
Trail Markings
At the time of this writing the trails are market very well from Loos to Hamra National Park, but not very well within wider Hamra National park. The trail is marked by orange colored flags. It is possible to loose the trail if one is not careful. Trees fall over and the landscape changes over time. Many places of the trail are particularly remote. Therefore always bring (waterproof) maps, compass and perhaps even GPS device (better something more reliable than your phone).
Wildlife
In general one does not need to worry about the wildlife in Sweden. Bears and wolfs exist, but they avoid humans. As a matter of fact, most people would consider themselves lucky to even see a moose. Nonetheless, bring a bear box. It gives you peace of mind when carrying your favorite sausages with you. Keep in mind that Hamra National Park is the most bear populated region of Europe.
Marshlands, Lakes & Forests
If one looks at the map, one would think that 50 km should easily be walked in two days on flat terrain. But if you have ever hiked through a swamp, you may know that it is hard work. Depending how much it rained during the season, you be wading through water up to your knees. Additionally, fallen trees and hip-high boulders may block your way in Hamra National Park. The hike can become very grueling if you underestimate it. Bridges across creeks exist, but do not expect them to be always perfectly maintained.
During our hike, we used barefoot shoes (socks) which turned out to be perfect for stepping through the wetlands. The only disadvantage is that one has to switch between socks and hiking shoes depending on if one crosses a marshland or a rocky section. It takes discipline to keep your shoes dry, but you really should keep them dry for your own comfort. Rubber boots may not be the best choice, since I expect them to give blisters. Feel free to comment in the section below if you have any opinion on the matter :)
On the note of mentioning blisters, one can not easily leave the trail everywhere. There are some forest gravel-roads used by forest workers which cross the trail at some places, but the forest roads do not always lead to the main road. Additionally, lakes or thick forest may block your way to the main road. For that reason, it is recommended to always maintain a sense of location and a charged phone.
Insects
There are a lot of mosquitos. Therefore it is a good idea to bring mosquito repellant. Ants may bite you too while you are wearing your barefoot shoes. The ants are harmless though.
Food
You are allowed to fish in Voxnan river (with fishing permit) and pick mushrooms and berries outside of the national park. Yet I would recommend you to bring your own favorite supplies. The water in the region is very clean and you can drink from any running water source. It may taste a bit earthy, but it will not make you sick.
Personal Highlights and Experience
“Every adventure has both the light, the dark, the toil and the reward. To experience that alone is to become absorbed by an activity, by a place, and by its people…. You no longer know where you end and where the world begins.”
Kyle Dempster, Separate Reality
Toil
- The hike is difficult. At times you are knee-deep in swamp water with a heavy backpack on your back. Mosquitos and ants bite you and you wonder why you are moving only few kilometers per day.
- At the beginning of the hike, outside of the national parks, you may be hiking through areas where trees have been cut extensively. While I enjoy sitting on my Ikea chair at home, it hurts to see the cut trees and deforested areas. I would call it a painful “awareness-shaping” experience.
- Sleeping outside is not always pleasant. Especially if you are in Europe’s most bear populated region without a bear box. Although bears are incredibly shy in northern Europe and bear attacks are very, very rare, one can develop an uncomfortable feeling.
Rewards
- If someone reads the word “swamp” one probably thinks of smelly landscapes. Actually, the Scandinavian marshlands are incredibly beautiful and peaceful. While you hike, it is like moving through a sacred, untouched space (most sections of the trail give that impression). This is particularly true when hiking through Hamra’s ancient forest. A true rarity.
- There is a lot of rare wildlife on and around the trail. This includes a wide variety of birds, but also big animals such as brown bears, moose, wolfs and dear. Unfortunately (or fortunately), we did not see any big animals on this trip. It was such an experience though to watch all the small and big birds going about their business.
- Swimming in the lakes as you please, camping where you want, making bonfires… Enjoying nature really does give ones that feeling of freedom.
- Solitude and digital detox: while constantly being surrounded by the buzzing of society, Covid, war and other unpleasantries it is very valuable to get some head space and recalibrate.
Final words
This hike was one of the best I ever did and I can highly recommend this adventure if you are up for it. Either way, I hope this article was informative and entertaining to you and perhaps you even got an idea for your next summer trip ?
