Bali: An aesthetic born out of a moving Earth
Bali was one of the first destinations that I flew to as an independent tourist with a friend. At the end of that trip, I knew I would be back because I was hooked on to the beautiful mystery that was Bali. On both the trips, being an over-planner, I already knew how the street leading to the hotel would look like, the entrance, the room, etc. Its true that such planning spoils the surprise and the authentic experience of a newer culture, space, and people. But I am unapologetically alright with overplanning because my experience felt more nuanced when I got out of the airport pickup taxi. I remember being incredulous about the approach road that google was showing me. It was a narrowest alley way that I had ever seen in my life! With great trepidation we crossed it and came across a gate guarded by some fierce-looking and mossy Rakshasas (Dwarpals) carved in stone. Once we were past them, a burst of luscious space greeted us.
The mossy stone Rakshas that welcomed us earlier seemed to have touched everything inside. The area was spacious but at the same time every inch was littered with ants, leaves, and flowers. The walls and pillars provided structure but simultaneously offered a free roaming undivided space. Water elements imitating the rain, the waterfall, the sea, and the ponds were also prominently featured. Privacy was ensured by tall growing trees and plants! It was absolutely a verdant wonderland. We were inside a working/living space but at the same time it felt like being in the great outdoors surrounded by nature.
I realized my discomfort came from the fact that my entire life I have been keeping the nature out of my living space as much as possible — the bugs, the soil, the trees. Only the carefully manicured and potted plants have place in my house and that too in the windows and the balcony. Here, everything crossed the boundaries that I had in my mind about a safe space called home. This interior design went against my instinct of a living space. The decor asked me to give up my control over nature. The visuals before me were instantly eye-pleasing. However, the landscape in front of me would become my living space only when I could lower my inhibitions and accept that reality that I was powerless in the presence of mother nature. The symbolism of the mossy stone Rakshasas suddenly became clear. They are supposed to ward off evil. It seemed like they were asking me to leave my need for control at that doorstep and then enter their scared space.
This (Balinese)interior design went against my instinct of a living space. The landscape in front of me would become my living space only when I could lower my inhibitions.
As I roamed around during that first trip and a subsequent second one, I wondered often about this utmost reverence for nature. Hinduism may be dominant in Bali but it has taken a form that seems different than that in India. The temple architecture incorporates nature not only in its designs but also in its materials. It seems the temple fills up with a sacred presence not with the entrance of an idol and the start of rituals like in India but when years of humid weather slowly covers the rock with soft green moss. The designs of pillars do not force symmetry but celebrate nature with its asymmetries and imperfections — each column has a different animal, a refreshing flower, a distinctly posed rakshas with an even peculiar expression! Further, it seems much more focused on appeasing the gods and spirits for the mundane — for example, there were offerings placed at the entrance of the alleyway, in the kitchen, in the car, on the shelf, on the plates, in every nook and corner! An enquiry about these offerings and their corresponding deities revealed combinations of some popular and beloved Hindu gods like the Ganesha, Durga, Vishnu and the dearly departed. One name that was always in the mix was that of Mount Agung — place of residence of the gods of Bali! Why such reverence to this particular mountain?
The designs of pillars do not force symmetry but celebrate nature with its asymmetries and imperfections
Now some facts about Mount Agung. It towers over the rest of Bali with a monstrous height of 3031 metres. It is the highest peak in the mainland of Bali. Wikipedia informs us that around thirty thousand years ago, Bali was formed when the Indo-Australian plate slipped under the Eurasian plate causing the later to be deformed. This deformation led to the formation of a series of volcanic mountains — one of which is mount Agung. So you see, the very existence of the land of Bali is intertwined with mount Agung. Although the rest of the volcanic mountains in Bali had slowly cooled off before Bali was inhabited, Mount Agung has always been very much active and alive. Its volcanic activity has shaped the lives of the Balinese people and their culture. A volcanic eruption disrupts the lives of the people living in its vicinity. The land that gets covered by lava no longer holds the top soil necessary for agriculture and it takes many many years to regain the same. The ash clouds that drift across the neighboring lands reduce the quality of air. But when and wherever it settles, it makes the soil fertile. The ancient volcanoes have ensured the fertility of the soil promoting agriculture as a main occupation but the frequent eruptions from Agung reduce the land available for safe, stable, and reliable agriculture and habitation.
Man has conquered the oceans and the skies and the emptiness beyond but he stands powerless when Mount Agung awakens. The great temperamental mountain controls the land that one stands on, the air one breathes, and one’s source of livelihood. With is enormous size, Mount Agung feels like the ultimate personification of power. As I meandered around its feet, I could not help but hold it in awe and respect which bordered closely to fear. Recalling my less-than-graceful climb to the nearby much smaller Mount Batur, my fragility, my smallness, and the brevity of my existence sunk in and I found myself begging to the great mountain for nothing but peace and my safe passage. The mountain enforces humility and kindles spirituality.
The mountain (Agung) enforces humility and kindles spirituality.
I fell in love with Bali with this realization. A UNESCO-recognised example of this spirituality is the rice terraces built by the first settlers from China in the 8th century. The collective building and maintenance of these rice terraces itself is the most ancient art piece that you can view. Additionally, they are maintained by a unique irrigation system that is controlled by Bali’s water temples. The Balinese have managed to incorporate art, sustenance (food and water), and spirituality when provided with a rugged but fertile volcanic landscape.
The beauty of the deformations on the Eurasian plate where Mount Agung and the fields sit is celebrated and revered but there is more to it. When the Indo Australian plate slipped beneath the Eurasian plate, it also pushed parts of the Eurasian plate above the sea level. The beautiful treasures of the ocean lying low for millions of years were lifted up and revealed to the world in an extravaganza that are the Uluwatu Cliffs - the towering cliffs located at southernmost tips of Bali near the Insta-famous Uluwatu temple. Thanks to the Singapore strait, there is negligible marine traffic to the south of Bali and the sea is crystal clear. The sunsets of Uluwatu are dreamy with hues of pink, red, and orange splattered across the vast canvas. But do you know why the sun is putting out a spectacular performance on his canvas? Check out the limestone cliffs of Uluwatu that glow golden and red as if blushing in response! I imagine the sun fell in love with the cliffs when they peeped over the surface after being buried under the sea for millions of years. Since then, he has has been putting up a flirtatious performance for the cliffs!
The sun fell in love with the cliffs when they peeped over the surface after being buried under the sea for millions of years. Since then, he has has been putting up a flirtatious performance for them!
The ocean is not always the villain in Bali. It hides vast amounts of marine treasures. In addition to the clearly brilliant blue seas and the surf waves of the Indian Ocean in the south, the Java sea of the north hides away two gorgeous shipwrecks that are very much alive. It was my first dive, and just like my every step in Bali till then, the sea asked me to treat the task with respect and solemnity. During the training session in the indoor pool, I started realizing the severity of repercussions of my desire to dive. Till then it was a vacation mode activity that I had booked and from what I had read, it was an adventure of a lifetime.
You are a terrestrial animal intruding the aquatic habitat that is not yours by design. And like an intruder you have to be uncomfortable and alert.
Swimming at the surface and learning to float is absolutely in your control. But learning to breathe deep under water makes you realize that you are completely at the mercy of that tight mask and oxygen tank. That you are a terrestrial animal intruding the aquatic habitat that is not yours by design. And like an intruder you have to be uncomfortable and alert. The living beings down there don’t even need to attack you to kill you, their protector is the ocean! After some earnest training, the ocean welcomed me and how! Holding on tightly to my instructor for the longest time, I was looking down mesmerized by just the fraction of beauty that awaited me, and then as I looked up — all the life in me shrank into my heart of hearts and in that moment I was only a collection of rapid heart beats — when I saw the huge ship wall loom large before me.
All the life in me shrank into my heart of hearts and in that moment I was only a collection of rapid heart beats — when I saw the huge ship…
The sights my eyes witnessed that day were unparalleled. I was reference-less and just existing in an ocean of indescribable colors and shapes. It seemed like the ocean was just flaunting its creativity— living creatures of colors more vibrant than the last rolled past us. It was like a reverse-museum experience where we — the spectators are stationary and hanging on to dear life by a thread— where as the art is alive around us— mocking us with its ease of movement, unfazed by our presence, emboldened by our naivety.
The ocean had arranged for a visual symphony orchestra and we felt limited by our senses to perceive it justifiably!
The following video is not taken by me but the experience and visuals were more or less similar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpI4MWDB8JU
https://youtu.be/z2Gev9YrRQk?t=32https://youtu.be/z2Gev9YrRQk?t=32
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Bali
