On the Bicycle Through the Awesome Off-Roads
Vinnytsia region, Ukraine
I appreciate this day as one of my most successful trips in 2017, even though this year gave me three new foreign countries and beautiful places in Ukraine like Chernivtsi, Chortkiv, and Myhia. No matter that this happened long ago: the main delight of the trip was the nature around, and nature’s beauty is eternal.
I remember planning this journey at length, but it had improvisations despite everything. The bottleneck was to deliver my bike on the bus to Nemyriv (a small district center located 45 km from my home city), but all went well. Then I had to ride my bicycle to Tyvriv town through off-roads, mainly by the bank of Pivdennyi Buh (which I guess is the most beautiful river in Ukraine). The last part was a good road from Tyvriv back home. Now I’ll relive that day again and invite you to do the same. Wooden churches of godforsaken villages, broken roads, barely visible footpaths, and gorgeous rivers landscapes await you.
With my bike, I overcame 70 km that day. Therefore, I skipped visiting Nemyriv and left it for another day. A few minutes after I left the bus station, the town reminded me about itself only with afar huts in the morning mist.
The first village on my route was Mukhivtsi. I visited it because of the wooden church (1880). The church lost its “head” during the Soviet occupation.
From Mukhivtsi, I rode to Vorobiyivka, located on the Pivdennyi Buh bank. I got lost there, woke up all the dogs, and had to force a stream and nettle brushes to get back on my way. Finally, I got to the bank near a boat bridge (it leads to the next forgotten village, which wasn’t in my plans).
Some people were preparing for the rafting on catamarans, and I started to explore the banks. First, I went down the river. The cascades of river rapids stretched for almost 2 km in that direction.
And they are gorgeous:
But my main direction was against the tide. So I returned to the bridge and rode to Strilchyntsi village. To do it by car, I’d make a detour to the main road. But there is a footpath on the bank — some short adventure way… And I felt so great there. This part between two villages and far from any roads was the best part of my route.
River free itself of rapids or sinks in them in different areas.
The number of storks was considerable there.
My favorite place was the group of rapids not reaching a few hundred meters to Strilchyntsi. The places around are divinely beautiful, maybe the best in our region. I visited Pivdennyi Buh in different places, but it can surprise me again and again.
A bridge in Strilchintsi was visible from afar.
A footpath goes through a forest and by a steep rocky hill then. There I had to walk the bicycle to avoid falling into the water. The village isn’t visible from here and hidden behind the slopes.
Rapids in Strilchyntsi:
A lonely street is hiding on the opposite bank of the river. Here you can find an exotic building as a wooden mill.
Then I left the bank for some time to overcome an awful road and get to Kanava village.
“Kanava” literally means “ditch.” The village took such an unpresentable name because old-timers said, “I’m going to the ditch” when descending to the river. The village is located on both banks as well, but it doesn’t has a bridge but another exotic thing: a ferry.
If the previous villages are unknown even to most locals, Kanava positions itself as a famous green tourism center with appropriate infrastructure.
In fact, I didn’t notice any of this. Previously I saw some tourists or tents but nobody in Kanava. Only trash somewhere as a sign that people were here. But it doesn’t take away the stunning beauty of this place.
The rapids:
I left the village by street so silent and deserted as all there. Now its population is only about 100 people. “As you call the ship, so it will float.”
Then I made a heroic dash (+83 meters above sea level according to the map) to Dzvonykha through Koliukhiv. In Koliukhiv, I found one more headless wooden church (of 1898).
Roads inside these villages are tolerated but awful between them: broken cobblestones without roadside. The bicyclist’s ass will feel each pebble. The best transport here still is the following:
Dzvonykha was the most exciting village (in architectural terms) among all I saw that day. The local wooden Intercession Church (1888) is beautiful and well-saved. It’s also hard to find because it’s hidden in the village hinterland.
A couple of ancient buildings near the church are harmoniously composed of stones and bricks.
Dzvonykha belonged to the Jaroszynski family. They had a palace here, but nothing remained of it. But original stables remained. These robust and rude buildings look like castle strengthenings.
Some of them are almost ruined or vanished in green.
A family:
The next point on my way was Tyvriv. The road to it turned out to be good asphalt sloped downward: the excellent satisfaction after the previous paths. I visited Tyvriv a year before, so I skipped it this time.
I managed my lunch and rested directly on the edge of a pedestrian bridge. The views of Pivdennyi Buh are gorgeous there as well. After the rest, I had to ride 30 km back home. I got significant fatigue that day, but it disappeared quickly, and impressions of that trip remained with me for many years.
If you don’t want to miss out on my new stories, you can subscribe to updates on my blog. If you appreciate my photos or tellings, you can buy me a coffee.
While you’re reading this text, Ukrainian people are dying from russian attacks. You can support Ukraine defenders and save lives no matter where in the world you are.
