Reliving Indian Culture in Old Delhi

The heat was beating down hard as I made my way through the narrow gullies (lanes) of Old Delhi with Jama Masjid (largest mosque in India), watching over me like an old dear friend. I was walking towards one of the most famous eateries of Delhi, Karims. The quintessential foodie will definitely pay a visit to Karims when he/she visits the capital. This is not only due to its flavourful Mutton Stew and other mouth watering dishes but also the fact that it stands strong in a place of historical significance and represents a part of Indian culture. The same history and culture that now our political leaders want to erase.

Karims was the brainchild of Haji Karimuddin, son of Mohammed Aziz who was a cook in the royal kitchens of the Lal Quila. This was around the time when Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal Emperor was exiled by the British in the revolt of 1857.

Karims was born as Karimuddin wanted to bring the food of the Mughal kings to the people on the street. At the restaurant while you wait your turn to be seated, the aroma of freshly baked naan bread, marinated meat roasted to perfection is pure magic. In an attempt to control my hunger and greed, I looked around to occupy my mind. I felt a sense of pride at the richness of Indian culture and the role that was played by the Mughals in enriching it. As Indians we had learnt to coexist and adapt and this made us a fascinating and truly diverse people.

Jama Masjid was built by Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal Emperor who also built the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort. Today I can’t imagine Old Delhi without the awe inspiring mosque. Back then, people also felt the same. During the revolt of 1857, the British wanted to destroy the mosque and people opposed it. I am pretty sure that even today people will have the same reaction irrespective of their religious beliefs.

While I devoured the mutton burra kebab at Karims I looked around me, there were plenty of non Muslims who like me were enjoying food and the ambience that was very much part of India. Here at Karims no one seemed to say that we must replace this food from the royal Mughal kitchens with a vegetarian thali. Then why are so many Indians still carried away by the narrative created by the saffron brigade that anything Muslim is not Indian or against Hindu culture.

Why are so many of us allowing for such an integral part of Indian history to be forgotten like it never happened. For all those in denial, take a walk around Old Delhi and take in the sights and smells. You will relive a piece of history and culture that has India and Indian written all over it.