Seeking tranquility? Why not visit Japan’s Best-Kept Secret Spa Town?
Come with me to learn about the historic allure of Arima Onsen, Japan’s revered spa village
The less-traveled roads inevitably lure me, eschewing the well-worn grooves of consensus. Japan is a diverse country with lots of different landscapes and stories to discover. It’s like a puzzle made up of many pieces, each with its own unique tale. In my own country, I often prioritize peace over the locomotive speed of metropolitan life. So, while in Japan, what better destination to discuss than Kobe’s trésor caché, Arima Onsen.
Why Arima Onsen?
Arima Onsen — an unexpected discovery nestled within the serenity of Kobe’s surroundings — beckoned to me like a whispered secret waiting to be unraveled. I will admit, it was completely by happenstance. I was staying in Kobe, looking for something to do so I opened Google Maps and started randomly looking at nearby locations. And there it was, an idyllic image that dictated my attention — a red bridge, positioned delicately over the languid waters of the Arimagawa River. It looked so serene that I had to make the bus trip from Kobe.
Getting There
Let me give you the lowdown on getting to Arima Onsen: it’s a quick 25-minute bus ride from Kobe Sannomiya Bus Station. If you’re coming from Osaka, it’s a tad longer, about 45 minutes from Osaka-Umeda Station. Now, I won’t sugarcoat it — the roads were pretty congested that day and it ended up tacking on an extra 15 minutes to our journey, making it a solid 40-minute trek instead of the estimated 25. Also, my ride was pretty packed, and I ended up standing for much of the journey. But hey, that’s just part of the adventure, isn’t it? We squeezed in like sardines, but it added to the experience.
Expectations: Exceeded
A feeling of anticipation developed as the elegance of Kobe’s port and maritime past gave way to the delicate tranquility of Arima, signalling the beginning my impromptu excursion transition into an unknown area of Japan. Arima Onsen is situated at the base of the Momiji Valley in the northern Rokko Mountains and stretches into a mountain valley. Upon arriving and stepping off the bus, the scorching rays of the Hyōgo sun greeted me, prompting a regretful realization: why had I not packed more Pocari Sweat?
Hydration aside, the distinguishable outline of the Nene-bashi bridge (ねね橋) caught my attention right away. Peering down from the high vantage of the road above, I saw the water from the Arimagawa River traipsing around little rocks in a calming manner, identical to the picture I had seen on Google Maps an hour before.
As my visit to Arima coincided with Golden Week (ゴールデンウィーク), essentially Japanese spring holiday. The air was filled with the hum of families and it seemed to me that Arima had become a refuge for those seeking solace in the therapeutic waters of the onsen, craving a brief respite from the frenetic pace of city life amidst the tranquil ambience of its environs.
While exploring this Ghibli-esque onsen village, you realise that it lives up to the romantic images of pre-modern Japan found in the Kokinshū (古今和歌集). What’s more, it holds a distinguished place in Japanese history, its name immortalized in The Pillow Book (枕草子) from the Heian Era as one of Japan’s three revered onsens. Notably, Arima gained recognition as the premier hot spring retreat during the Edo Period, solidifying its cherished reputation. Today, Arima stands resolute, its heritage and prestige unyielding, firmly establishing itself as the best onsen in the Kansai region.
Situated at the heart of Arima Onsen, Yumemuri Square epitomizes the essence of the locale with an air of sophistication and allure. My eyes were drawn to a sight directly to the right: a sparkling waterfall, seemingly frozen in time, delicately descending with elegance, its ethereal mists engulfing the plaza. At its heart stands a sentinel of history — a statue immortalizing Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the indomitable Daimyo of the Sengoku period. With an aura of authority and stoicism, he looks over the square, a silent witness to the ebb and flow of time.
The Rich History of Arima’s Soothing Spring Waters
Arima Onsen boasts two distinct varieties of hot springs: gold and silver. The gold spring, a concoction of iron and salt, presents itself with a beguiling reddish-brown hue, its texture thick and reminiscent of primordial mud. It is revered by locals for its capacity to hold heat as well as for its purported ability to provide skin a radiant shine, which adds to the mystique surrounding traditional remedies.
After moving on from the golden spring, I followed the main route, passing by a lot of souvenir stores and izakayas. I barely made it through the lengthy bus ride earlier because it was so hot outside. Thankfully, I spotted the conventionally-named Arima Brewery on the right flank of the road and placed an order for a cold one, one of their own artisanal brews. Looking out the open windows, I could see a procession of happy families who had disembarked from the bus earlier making their way up the main road.
Now funnelling through the labyrinthine alleyways hemmed in by weathered Japanese houses, I ascended what it seemed like a endless amount of steep inclines and stairs until an old temple materialized before me. This specific temple dates to the Nara period and was built by the monk Gyoki (行基). I had my camera with me but photos were prohibited of the temple. I just took time to relax and take everything in before leaving.
Just as I was leaving the temple, I was dazed by the sudden appearance of a geisha, her porcelain countenance a stark contrast against the colourful flowers behind her. Instinctively, she averted her gaze upon spotting my camera however she had nothing to fear as I sympathise with the Geisha laws, but I understood her reaction. This was my first time seeing the snow white face of a Geisha, a figure relegated to the annals of legend in the Western orientalist imagination, yet ever-present in the sibylline annals of Japanese culture.
But what is the food like in an Onsen Village?
Let me take a bit of time to regale you with the food Arima has to offer. I admit, I did not eat much in Arima however, the dishes I did sample were truly exceptional. Firstly, I visited Japanese confectionery Kobo Arima (和菓子工坊), a wagashi shop and bought their karinto manju. It could best be described as a crunchy bun filled with red bean paste inside.
After climbing countless steps, my appetite led me to Grill Rokko, a quaint yet convivial eatery. Here, amidst the wooden ambiance, I tried a variant of omurice (オムライス) previously unexplored by my palate. This wasn’t your regular omelette, I assure you! Along with these tasty treats, I also grabbed some seasoning — which I still have some left. Complementary on nearly anything is this yuzu shichimi. If anything, I want to come back to Arima solely for its culinary treats!
Final Verdict: Arima Onsen Checks All the Boxes!
Towards the end of my journey, I was sauntering down the main road, past the lone Lawson and stumbled upon a quaint little souvenir shop bearing the name Yoshitaka Shop (吉高屋). Stepping inside, I was greeted by an array of beauty products, many of them infused with Arima Onsen’s carbonated spring water. Intrigued, I picked up a souvenir T-shirt, along with moisturizer and hand cream — encouraged by the zesty aroma of Yuzu. Intrigued by the vintage charm exuded by the shop’s old façade, I asked the owner a little about the store when checking out and they told me it dated back to 1868!
Arima Onsen, cherished across generations since ancient times, exudes a nostalgic charm with its quaint shops and delectable restaurants nestled within its historic mountainous hot spring town. Coincidentally, my Japanese teacher recently told me about her trip to Arima with her mother, which only made me want to go back and experience its stunning atmosphere even more. This is a location I wholeheartedly love! Undoubtedly, Arima is the gem of Hyōgo Prefecture.
All photos except the top image, have been taken by and are the property of the author.
