Ushuaia — Argentina

Located at the bottom tip of the earth, Ushuaia is considered the southern most city in the world. The surrounding region is named Tierra del Fuego — Land of Fire. When Magellan the explorer first discovered these native American lands he found a local population of tall people which he called the “Patagones” and thus it was dubbed Patagonia or “Land of the Big Feet”.

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After landing from a 3.5 hour flight from BA, covering the entire length of Australia from top to bottom; we decided to take the afternoon Beagle Channel tour to see the Penguins.

Left: The worlds southern most harbour is filled with huge vessels Right: Team Paddo enjoying the sunshine

As the boat travelled down the Beagle Channel, we passed several islands coated in Penguins and Sea Lions.

Sea Lions bask in the sunlight by the water as a giant waddle of Penguins congregate

Left: Sea Lions beached in the sun on a sharp outcrop of rock Right: The mountains stare down the scenery at the edge of the world

A Sea Lion fends off insurgents while a vulture lands with a watchful eye

Gulls soar above their flightless Penguin cousins as the sun recharges their sleek skin

To give us close access to the Penguins the boat beached on an island in the middle of the Beagle Channel. This island is normally home to two different types of Penguins; the Magellanic and Gentoo.

Penguins swimming at the waters edge and basking in the near-Antarctic sun

Left: A Magellanic Penguin waddles along the shore amongst the seaweed Right: A lost King Penguin steals the show

We were extremely lucky to see a rare King Penguin make an appearance while wondering the shore. While the beach was mostly dotted by Magellanic Penguins, with their striped chests and magenta eyes; the grasslands above were dominated by their bigger cousins the Gentoo Penguin.

Left: A mother feeds its young by regurgitating Right: A jealous twin spots the feeding

Gorgeous Gentoo twins chase their frenzied mother for the “catch of the day”

Left: The mother attempts a quick escape Right: The chase is on; the late-comer straggles behind

Just a regular work day for the Penguins at Faro del Fin del Mundo — Lighthouse of the End of the World

Left: Birds nest on the cliff edge Right: The sun shines over the cold stretches of Patagonia in summer

The next day we ventured out into the wilderness and hiked Laguna Esmeralda. Although we had originally planned on a different hike, I got the name wrong and we ended up at Esmeralda; however we were not disappointed.

Our first views of the stunning landscapes of southern most Patagonia would set the tone for the coming weeks of hiking and adventures.

Fangorn Forest desecrated by the Orc Horde in Lord of the Rings

Far over the misty mountains cold, through waters deep and bridges trolled

Upon a dam of beavers make, the rivers turned into a lake, leaving destruction in their wake

We were initially quite puzzled by the dam, seeing as we weren't aware of any Beavers in South America. A conservationist told us that some idiots imported Beavers to Patagonia hoping to start a lucrative fur trade. Instead they destroyed ancient forests by damming the rivers and flooding the trees’ roots. Sadly these types of trees cannot recover and the lake is surrounded by grey wooden skeletons. This is part of the reason why customs at the border between Chile and Argentina is so strict. To make things worse the proposed solution to the beaver problem was to import bears and create a bear problem. Fortunately that never happened and the beavers have since been wiped out.

Left: Davo rock hopping Right: A glacier in the distance, Laguna Esmeralda hidden behind the small hill

Left: A quiet moment of embrace Middle: The glacial waters flowing down stream Right: Pointing to the glacier beyond the lake

The view of the lake from the shoreline was nothing short of breath taking. I took my boots off and cooled my feet in the water. The temperature was ice cold but reduced the swelling of my feet quickly. We ate a packed lunch and soaked in the rays reflecting off the mirrored surface of the lake.

Laguna Esmeralda’s glassy waters sit beneath the snow capped mountains feeding the lush forest atit’s shores

A man masterfully juggles 7 balls while the clouds slowly drift by

We decided to see what was on the other side of the lagoon. We discovered a trail which lead through the forest that was not visible from the front side of the lake.

Left: Steams running through a mossy lush forest Right: The cascade gushing over rocks out into the valley

A triumphant Davo standing on a distant outcropping under the cliff face

Left: Part of the glacier which feeds the azure waters below Right: Embracing the open spaces with a sense of joy and peace

Two black faced ibis’ sitting in the ghostly wooded skeletons killed by the beavers

Left: The black faced ibis, relative of the Australian “Bin Chicken” Middle: Beaver teeth cut this tree with precision to dam up the river Right: Classic Paddo

Time to head home after a long day, the first Patagonian hike an epic success

The next day we hitch hiked to the Tierra del Fuego National Park. There are “shuttle buses” but all included they cost something like 40 EUR. As it was summer holidays we were told that many locals pick up hitch hikers on the way to the park. Sure enough after about 15 minutes we got a lift with some friendly locals. Despite our terrible pigeon Spanish they understood that we wanted to go the National Park and were nice enough to stop at the southern most train station so we could take some photos.

Left: Affectionately “The End of the World Train” the worlds southern most operating train Right: An antique engine on display

While waiting for our friends in a separate car we watched the bay and nearly got blown away by the ice cold summer winds

The shore lines at the National Park look like an alien planet

Left: Empty rocky beaches with bright green foliage Middle: The guys discussing our next move Right: Duckies! I love Duckies. Look at them!

A beautiful tree forks out in all directions claiming the summer sun with its rich green leaves

Left: Strange growths bulge out of the bark Right: Epiphytes covering the branch of a tree waver in the wind

Left: The rocks expose strange geological layers like the centre of an Oreo biscuit Right: Soft green hair-like strands of moss coat the rocky shore

Left: Scratching the Wanderlust itch Right: Davo loving legs day

A Chimango Caracara bird of prey searches the rocks for a meal

Left: I’m stumped for a caption Right: The walking continues

A bird just barely escapes the sensor

The National Park is home to a lot of beautiful bird species. At one point we heard a unique tapping sound and spotted some Magellanic Woodpeckers. The first sighting of a woodpecker is quite a thrilling experience.

Left: Two red headed male Woodpeckers and one female Right: The orange ring of the Woodpeckers eye pierces out across the forest floor

Left: A Rufous-collared Sparrow hunting in the grass Right: Caught mid-flight, their wings beat approximately 15 times per second

Left: A male Magellan Goose leads the chicks on a worm run Right: The elusive wifey bird trekking the Tierra del Fuego National Park

Left: A Southern Caracara soars in the air Middle: Another Southern Caracara waits on a log Right: Aptly named Black-necked swans fish the waters

At the end of the hike we came across this Southern Caracara sitting on a log. Eventually it stood up and showed his huge body. It was to be able to stand so close to the second largest falcon in the world.

The Southern Caracara stares down the camera lens with its superior falcon eyes

The next day we left Ushuaia heading for Punta Arenas in Chile; along our route to Torres del Paine. It was a full day trip by road, with only grasslands and Vicunas for scenery.

Left: Vicunas the prototypal Llama grazing on the grasslands Right: A calf drinks milk from its mother who glares a protective eye our way

Left: Old boats in the port of Porvenir Right: The ferry ready for boarding to Punta Arenas

Extras

Left: A single colour rendition of the Lighthouse of the End of the World Right: Penguins everywhere

Left: Down by the river Right: Hiking towards Mordor

Left: End of the world Right: A pirate map of Tierra del Fuego

Left: The Sea Lions basking in the sun Right: Emma photographing the wild life

Left: The island of Penguin Poop Right: Sea Lions warming on the rocks

Selfies with the Sea Lions

Left: Lighthouse of the end of the world Right: King Penguin walking amongst its smaller cousins

Up close and personal with the Penguins

Left: Excited hikers, the glacier in the distance Right: The amazing scenery at Laguna Esmeralda

Left: Beaver dam in the distance and dead trees strewn everywhere Right: Love birds

The beautiful glacial stream cutting through the landscape

The lads posing Right: Davo hugs the sky

Emma captures the steam

We made it, or so we thought; the hike to the glacier was many more hours ahead

Left: A note to the other guys when we thought they wouldn’t turn up Right: That feeling when you’re finally at the place you’ve been heading for a long time

Left: Davo explores the coast line Right: Shura leads the troupe

Left: Stalking the local wild life Middle: A Woodpecker hole Right: A tree that’s all pecked out

Left: Mossy wisps Middle: Hello Right: Baby geese!

The Southern Caracara waits for some prey

Left: Emma taking photos Right: Selfie time

Left: Beautiful Lupins are everywhere in Ushuaia Right: The sun rising on our way to Chile