Top Things to Do in San Pedro de Atacama: An Inside Look
The closest you’ll get to visiting another planet
Picture this: the sun is setting in rosy hues, the terracotta mountains catch the light just right, the brightest stars you’ve ever seen are about to come out, and you’re by yourself — just the right level of isolated. It almost feels like you’re on a different planet altogether. This is it. The Atacama Desert is often spoken of with reverence, and with good reason, visiting it is entering a different world altogether.
Chile’s got it all, glaciers in Torres del Paine, a vibrant metropolis in Santiago, wine in Maipo Valley, and expanses of green in Patagonia. Yet, there are still some more off-the-beaten-path destinations in this South American country. Although popular with backpackers, it hasn’t quite reached the mainstream yet. Up north, east of Antofagasta, you’ll find your next landing place: San Pedro de Atacama.
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What’s Atacama?
To avoid any confusion: the Atacama Desert is a large expanse of beautiful barren landscapes in the El Loa Province, whilst San Pedro de Atacama is the name of the main city, within the desert.
West of the famous Andes Mountains, the Atacama Desert is the driest non-polar place on this planet. It stretches on and on for about a thousand kilometers. Fun fact: this is also the oldest desert on Earth. The region’s unique conditions have made it a favorite of scientists. The dry and arid climate has led to incredible organisms which scientists hope will open up a window of knowledge on what potential life might exist elsewhere, like Mars.
The city, San Pedro de Atacama, used to thrive on the mining of sulphur, salt and lithium. Nowadays, tourism has given mining a run for its money as the main economic resource of the region. The locals have found difficulties with both industries due to their invasive nature, so whatever you do, be respectful of this amazing place. This is pretty much your only home-base option for visiting the region and it is a desert after all, so there isn’t much in terms of tourist-friendly accommodations around (unless you’re looking for an extra luxurious stay in the middle of the desert, then stay at Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa). For the rest of us, good thing San Pedro de Atacama is an adorable small town with plenty to do and see!
What to Do in Atacama
Enjoy what the city has to offer
Obviously visiting San Pedro de Atacama, the place you’ll probably be staying at, is at the top of your to-do list. The city is often described as boho. It’s quite small and you can easily take a few hours to just walk around. Free walking tours are available as well if you want to sprinkle a bit of history into your trip. Everything here is old, the plaza, the church, the dirt roads and the adobe homes.
While in the city, take the time to eat your fill. Walking up and down Caracoles Street, the main drag, you’ll find plenty of tour operators, but also a bunch of tempting foods on offer. You can’t leave San Pedro de Atacama without having tried one of their ice creams made with local plants like chañar which tastes pretty caramel-y. When it comes to cold treats, Tierra del Sol and Babalu Heladería are your best bets. For something truly Chilean, Baltinache is the experience for you. The food here is inspired by the Mapuche (the natives of Chile) and it’s probably one of the most exciting gastronomic experiences you can have in San Pedro! Empanadas are also always a good choice in South America and you’re sure to find some at every corner. Let your nose guide you down Caracoles and you won’t be disappointed.
Enjoy the outdoors in daytime
There’s plenty to explore in the desert proper. Valle de la Luna which translates to Moon Valley is a place worth exploring. It takes its name from it’s satellite-like appearance — in black and white photos, pictures of the area looked as if they were taken of the Moon. When you’re there and you see it in color, you might think it looks a bit more like Mars — no matter, it’s still a sight to behold. Catching sunset over the valley is essential. A lot of tour companies end up on the same sand dune for the show, and while that view will still be breathtaking, it can get crowded. While shopping for the best tour on Caracoles Street, that’s something you might want to bring up with the operator to find something a bit more secluded. Tours usually include a short walk around the desert with some crawling in salt covered caves.
Valle de la Muerte or Death Valley is another must. One way to experience the large expanse of desert is on horseback. With the red sand all around, you’ll feel as if you were straight out of an old-time-y Western movie. You can also sand board in this valley! The name is self explanatory, it’s basically snowboarding on sand. Plenty of people get tours to partake in the activity, but you can also go alone by renting a sandboard and mountain bike. Speaking of, this is also a great place to bike around. Be sure to bring plenty of water, after all, it is the desert!
If you’re looking for a change of scenery after all that sand, go higher up in altitude to the El Tatio geysers. At 4,320 meters above sea level, these are the highest geysers in the world. Tours usually leave in the very, very early morning so you can catch sight of the sunset through the water mist being expelled everywhere. While the water is boiling hot, the surroundings are not, this is the place where you’ll want to bring all of your layers! This high up, there’s even snow! There also is a hot spring nearby, Puritama, so do pack your swimsuit as well. If you’re lucky, you might even catch sight of a vicuña, an adorable llama-like animal native to the Andes.
If you’re up for a 200 km roundtrip journey to a special place, you’ll be rewarded by the sights waiting for you at Los Flamencos National Reserve. At the Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons you’ll be able to catch sight of beautiful birds, experience delightful hot springs, and the pink cherry on top: stand in awe of a lake filled to the brim with flamingos. The waters of the lagunas altiplanicas are turquoise and picturesque. It’s also a great place to spot vicuñas! If you opt to stay quite a few days in Atacama, it’s well worth your time. The Chaxa Lagoon is part of the Los Flamencos park — it’s the best place to catch sight of the pink birds the reserve takes its name from! It is a little out of the way as it is right smack in the middle of the Salar de Atacama. It’s a true oasis in the desert and you won’t regret making the trek.
Enjoy nightlife in a different way
While the organisms that flourish in the desert have peaked scientists interest, another way to get your nerd on in Atacama is to look up at night. Stargazing is the top nighttime activity in the area. At more than 5,000 meters in elevation, the plateau that is the Atacama Desert is one of the best places on this planet to look to the stars and beyond. With very little precipitation, the lack of clouds makes it a sure shot when it comes to seeing stars. Atacama, being a desert, also has very little light pollution as the population is extremely limited due to the arid conditions. Amateur and pro astronomers alike are sure to catch a glimpse of something otherworldly through the clear skies. Just make sure to check your lunar calendar before booking this one, a full moon shines so bright that stars may get outshined.
There’s so much to see in Atacama, that it’s impossible to narrow it down! Walking up and down Caracoles Street is a great way to shop for experiences. If you’re thinking of adding Bolivia to your itinerary, heading to the Uyuni Salt Flats from here is more than doable.
Where to Stay in Atacama
Whether you go for an all-inclusive hotels, a boutique hotel, or a hostel, for convenience sake, try to get it as close as possible to Caracoles Street. This is where everything happens in San Pedro de Atacama — it’s the place to be.
If you’re on a budget, Tiny Hostel Atacama is a good pick. It’s a nice and clean place to rest your head. Bonus: it’s right in the center of town. It’s the perfect place to meet some fellow backpackers and plan adventures together! A bed in the dorm runs for about $15 USD and a private room, $45 USD per night.
Still in the hostel department is La Casa de Mathilde. The owners are warm and welcoming, and they’ll be more than happy to help you organize tours if the tour operators of Caracoles are a bit too daunting for you. A single bed in a dorm runs around $18 USD per night. They also have family private rooms for $95 USD a night.
As far as boutique hotels go, Poblado Kimal is a great place to stay. You don’t just get a room here, but your very own wood cabana. When in the desert, the added bonus of a pool is also always appreciated after a dusty day. They do offer excursions and an all-inclusive program which is worth looking into too. Rooms start at $199 USD per night with breakfast included.
For some serious luxury, head to Noi Casa Atacama. The architecture is modern and amazing. They offer excursions as well. You can also get your room bed & breakfast style, half board or full board! It might be a bit pricey, but you’re laying down on a bed by the pool — it will be worth it. With breakfast only, rooms start at $359 USD a night.
One of the only fully all-inclusive resorts in San Pedro de Atacama is Explora Atacama. It’s a bit further from Caracoles than other hotels, but the luxurious no-fuss approach outweighs the negatives. They offer plenty of amazing tours! For a 3-nights all-inclusive stay, you’re looking at $759 USD per night.
How long to stay
This really depends on the type of traveler you are. If you’re limited on time and cash, plenty of people only spend 3 to 4 days in Atacama. This will mean a quick-paced adventure, but you’ll still get to see plenty, not all, but plenty. A good week seems the consensus for ideal time in Atacama. It lets you take your time and check most of the boxes of “must-sees” in the region, whilst still having something new to do everyday. But there’s nothing stopping you from staying longer, no one would blame you!
When is the Best Time to Visit
Luckily, when visiting one of the driest spots on Earth, precipitation is not really something you have to worry about! Weather doesn’t vary much during the year, so you’re welcome to visit anytime. The hottest months however are between January and March, which coincidentally, is when Chileans take their vacations — if you want to avoid both crowds and stifling heat, you might want to steer clear of those times.
How to get there
The easiest way to get to Atacama is to fly into the Calama El Loa Airport. From there, you have an hour and a half of road ahead of you before arriving in San Pedro de Atacama. You can book a transfer ahead of time, or book one directly on arrival. It’s about 20,000 Chilean Pesos (US$30) per person. A few buses are also available, but scheduling might be less advantageous.
If you’re coming from the salt flats in Bolivia, plenty of tour companies also do the trek through the desert to get you to Atacama. Traditionally, the crossing is a three-day journey and you’ll be roughing it a little, but it’s quite the adventure! Plenty of backpackers do it every year! If you’d rather sacrifice sightseeing for comfort, you can do the journey in a day, crossing the desert in a hired jeep. Make sure to have some Bolivian cash on hand — if you pass through one of their national parks, fees will apply. If you’re willing to sacrifice comfort and sightseeing to save a little cash, you can just hop on a 10-hour bus that will stick to the main road and take you from the flats to Atacama or vice versa.
How to get around once you’ve made it
There are three main ways to experience Atacama.
The first is to stay in a fancy all-inclusive hotel that offers its own small and exclusive tours. It’s expensive, but well worth it as smaller tours give you more of the isolated vibe you’d be looking for in a place like the Atacama Desert.
The second option is to just freestyle it. Up and down the main road in San Pedro you’ll find a myriad of tour operators. You can easily shop around and book tours the day before or even the day of. This is more affordable, but can be a bit more crowded and unpredictable. If you’re willing to pay a bit more, you can easily find a private guide.
The third option is riskier, but you could rent a vehicle and roam around yourself. Although independent travel is tempting, you relinquish the benefit of having a knowledgeable guide with you. The roads can also be dangerous with plenty of bends and deep ravines. If you rent a vehicle, it will have to be a 4x4, as roads aren’t the smoothest. Keep in mind that this is a desert, and it can be easy to get turned around.
There’s also a bonus option: mix a bit of everything. For more adventurous and distant destinations, get a guide. For things closer to San Pedro, rent a bike, a quad, or even a horse! Valle de la Muerte is a great place to horse or bike around. There are designated areas where you can go wild on all-terrain vehicles as well. And of course you can walk anywhere within the small city of San Pedro de Atacama!
Cash is still king in San Pedro de Atacama, so make sure to have some on hand to pay for any and all things, especially transport. There is an ATM or two, but if you’re around during a particularly busy period, there’s no telling whether any cash will be left for you!
What to pack for your trip
The desert is, unsurprisingly, dry. Bring all the moisturizing things you can think of: lotion, chapstick, and most importantly of all, sunscreen. There isn’t much shade to be found in grand expanses of sand so sunburns are a real possibility here. Whatever you do, stay hydrated! Pack a reusable bottle with you, plenty of hotels and hostels have refill stations and it’s just the green thing to do. In the evening, or at high altitude (like at the geysers) temperatures can drop drastically, make sure to pack plenty of layers to plan for this. Freezing in the desert while hunting shooting stars takes some of the magic away.
Whether you embark on this adventure solo or with a partner, the Atacama Desert will take your breath away. This is the kind of place that has been left unchanged by time. There’s a reason so many comparisons have been made to the Moon and Mars, it’s out-of-this-world. While you and I might not get to step foot on another planet in our lifetime, this is as close as it gets — and it’s pretty amazing as is.
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