The Scotland Trip, Nov 2018. Part I
Trip Length: 5 days
Total photos taken: 831
Salvageable footage: approximately 200
It is a known fact that holidays to the Scottish Highlands aren’t best made in wintry late November. Autumn had abruptly ended just as soon as it began in late September, and the snowy highland winter isn’t anticipated for another month or two. All the same, we were as hyped as a pair of puppies readying for a walk.
Expectedly, budget restraints coupled with the fact that neither Craig nor I was qualified to drive, meant that the Highland trip would be pretty impossible on our own (I haven’t driven in 4 years under good weather conditions). But we always made it work. His parents were invited to join us mid-trip so we could all make a cosy road trip to the Highlands. Eileen and Michael are the loveliest people I know, and it was the best decision to have them come with us. Plus, they haven’t had a trip to the Highlands in ages, and wouldn’t have if it weren’t for us. So really, it was brilliant!
27.Nov.18. Edinburgh
Our journey took off really early, catching the 6:30 am Metro from Meadow Well to Newcastle Central Station. We arrived about 20 minutes early at Central Station, and got ourselves some nice Christmas hot drinks at Cafe Nero — I mean, you have to start the trip right, you know? From there, it was a 2 hour train ride to Edinburgh. Arriving at 9:30 am, it was terribly early to check into our AirBnb, so we decided to find a cafe to kill time for a while.
I think it’s worth mentioning that you should expect to hear me lamenting about the weather at tiresomely high frequency throughout this post. I will keep it to a minimum but definitely do not take it for granted.
Edinburgh was not welcoming in the same sense. I remember being utterly terrified and unprepared because I had geared up with all my winter essentials and it was freezing even though we had barely begun our journey north. I hardly remember how we managed to navigate our way to the cafe with my hand-carry and me trembling like a leaf. However, I am determined to walk down memory lane and recount it all — I mean that’s literally the point of my travel memoirs. So here goes.
Our short coffee stop took place at Rabbies’ Cafe. It was close by Waverley station and I had visited there briefly in 2017 when my friends and I took one of the Rabbies’ tour packages to the Isle of Skye — personal recommendation if you are looking for a tour package in Scotland, they were wonderful as far as tour packages go.
We took refuge from the harsh Edinburgh cold for nearly an hour, and eventually dared ourselves to venture out. Luckily for us, the weather became bearable after the sun had risen sufficiently. Still, we couldn’t wait to rid ourselves of our baggage, and so began to navigate towards the Airbnb. It took longer than we expected, the map does lie sometimes.
The apartment was just above Paradise Palms bar, which described itself as a “Funky destination for imaginative vegetarian dining with an on-site record store, bar & hangout”, so I quote from Google. In retrospect, when I stepped into the bar to find the Airbnb owner (I believe he is also the bar owner), indeed ‘funky’ was the word that had come to mind. As unsuspecting as the exterior was, it felt like an exclusive party meant for people who were way too hip for me. Mind you it was 11 am and they were barely setting up shop, but still it was a lot to take in. I felt oddly out of place, and yet the allure of it was undeniable, like a child wanting to be invited to the adults’ dinner party.
After we handed our baggage over, I reached out for the nearest cocktail menu which only made me squeal internally in excitement, and cried out to Craig that we must be there for drinks later. I can only imagine how the atmosphere must be in the evenings because regrettably, we did not make it back for drinks that night. But you bet it has made it on to our to-go list for the next time we have a stop in Edinburgh. I would suggest the same for you.
The rest of our afternoon was largely occupied with essential winter shopping. I did not bring many winter clothes from home and Craig needed a new pair of gloves, so we had factored in shopping into our itinerary. As always, the streets of Edinburgh were photogenic to say the least. Our shopping trip was speckled with plenty of photo-stops for the gram. I do wish we had ventured to the lesser travelled alleys of Edinburgh, but the truth is it was not an appealing idea when we were wrestling with multiple shopping bags in the cold.
Even then, there was plenty of walking to fill the day with. The Edinburgh Christmas market was open in full force with its convoluted trails of stalls stretching 3 levels in Princes Street Gardens. If you don’t already know, Edinburgh Christmas market is one of the biggest Christmas markets in the UK, and perhaps even in Europe. While it is usually overflowing with families over the weekends, we had ourselves plenty of personal space on a Tuesday afternoon.
After grabbing some bites at the market, we made our way towards the famous Victoria Street for photos and spent time browsing at the pretty boutiques that dotted the street. It was about 2 pm by the time we decided to head back to our apartment, but not before we sat for a pint each at The Wee Pub. Technically it wasn’t the Wee Pub itself, because the Wee Pub was just a small room attached to the bigger Biddy Mulligans. Nonetheless, it provided some respite from the cold outside and a break for our tired feet.
We had a lie-down in the apartment for an hour or two, and headed out again for pasta at The Vittoria on The Bridge. Our food was difficult to complain about as it was delicious, but I remember being rather annoyed that the wait for my food took about 45 mins despite there being very few patrons in the ristorante. I will stop it short here.
It was biting cold outside when we left the restaurant, but we felt it would be such a shame to go straight to bed. We were both unbelievably exhausted at the point, but still we dragged our feet towards the Black Medicine coffee house.
Without a doubt, we made the right decision in choosing a place. You know that feeling when you walk into a shop, and the new atmosphere engulfs you so unexpectedly, making you forget the last thought on your mind before stepping through the door? I would say it has a lot to do with timing — being in the right place at the right time. It was a simply decorated coffee house, but there was so much life in it that was infectious. In essence, it was a study hang out for students of Edinburgh, students from all ages and walks of life — professors, college students, graduates and perhaps high schoolers. There were books sprung open on most tables, everyone talking so excitedly but also you hear discussions of chemistry, mathematics, and some gossip from various corners. The coffee house was three storey big, bright, warm and welcoming. But more than anything else, it revived our weary mind if only for just another hour. I found a table on the basement level and ordered myself hot delicious tea and the usual espresso for Craig, really just what we needed while escaping from the wet and dreary Edinburgh evening in November.
By no means did we end the day on a high note, but it definitely concluded with good feelings, and sometimes that is enough.
