BYE BYE BA
his past Sunday 5/1/16 we moved to La Paz, Bolivia. After four weeks living in Buenos Aires I survived, minus 1 iPhone 6S and Rhino Shield case, but with a new iPhone 6S and funky black mesh case.
tl;dr — don’t text in cabs.
(I was in the back of a cab and the window was open just enough that a motochoto ran up on foot, stuck his hand in, grabbed my phone while I was texting, and ran away. Ironically, it happened while Claire was on a plane to come to BA, with my BA roommate’s new phone (her’s was stolen the week before). Luckily, another Remote, Jackie, was in New Orleans that weekend and my hero Kevin was able to get his friend to go to the Apple store, buy me a new one, and deliver it to Jackie’s hotel; then, Jackie flew back to Argentina with it.)
It was an interesting difference coming from the “small” city of Córdoba to the metropolis that is BA. It’s almost like with infinite possibilities you always feel like you’re missing out on something, and you can’t fully get to know the city you’re in. A month is a short time, but it felt like enough in Córdoba. Even without any trips outside BA, I still feel like I missed out on parts of the Porteña experience. And BA is an amazing city. It’s got this incredible architecture that’s European, but its own. Someone described it to me as Paris in South America, and that fits.
Photo Cred: Derryl Carter — I don’t have any street shots of BA because I was being cautious with my phone (that worked out well) so I stole this one from Derryl so you’d get an idea of the sort of European flavor I was talking about. This is in the San Telmo barrio.
The vibe shifted among our Cousteau crew a little last month. For one, while it was warm in Córdoba, it was cold and rainy for most of our time in BA. The weather definitely put a damper on our activities and outings.
And in Córdoba, we were living in about 50 buildings across Nueva Córdoba, but all centered in Incutex, our one co-working space. In BA, we were in about 5 buildings but spread out since we had two La Maquinita co-working spaces (Villa Crespo and Palermo) and many opted to work from cafes around the city. It almost felt like we went from coworkers to roommates, an adjustment we’ll likely have to deal with month to month.
You heard about a decent amount of my activities in my last post, and the last one to update you on was another phenomenal farewell party organized by our Community Manager, Travis. Remote Year rented out a mansion in Palermo and we got to dance the night away with our friends. It involved team twerking, some clothing swaps, and a lot of Fernet and Coke (a favorite Argentinian adult beverage).
Cousteau Crew dancing up a storm in a drained out pool
Most of my time in BA was spent working and eating out. We had a very tiny kitchenette that I cooked in once. I knew BA was going to be full of delicious food and I treated myself. From closed door restaurants, to staple brunch spots I ate my way through Palermo. So, as I ended my time in Córdoba with a post about some of our favorite watering holes, I will do the same for BA. This will barely cover all there is to eat and drink in Palermo, but hopefully it’s a helpful start.
NININA — This is top of the list because you couldn’t walk in there at any time without seeing someone else from Cousteau in there. +50 white girl points to this all day brunch spot that had freshly pressed juices made with Kale.
LA MAR — Amazing Peruvian chain. They have one in San Francisco as well, and if you’re there run, don’t walk. It’s phenomenal seafood.
LAS CABRAS — Special shout out from me. It’s a delicious parilla that doesn’t break the bank.
OLSEN — An absolutely gorgeous restaurant, with a delicious weekend brunch special.
CRIZIA — If you’re craving oysters, this is an amazing spot to go to.
NICKY NY — A speak easy and sushi restaurant. Ask to eat in or see the wine cellar when you go.
NICETO CLUB — On Thursdays it turns into a gay party, Club 69, which was one of the most fun clubs I’ve ever been to. We went there on a non-Thursday night and it just wasn’t the same.
SUGAR — Sort of sports bar equipped with beer pong tables, two projectors, Game of Thrones viewing parties, and a Thursday night Ladies’ Night drink special that should make it any females’ number one priority stop.
FRANK’S — I only went there once but it was a very cool speakeasy, and you have to know the password for the phone booth before you get there to get in.
VICTORIA BROWN BAR — Another speak easy with excellent adult bevs.
NOLA — The most hipster place in all of BA, I’m convinced. Seriously it’s a wormhole back to Brooklyn. Excellent fried chicken and run by a well-known Closed Door chef.
LA CARNICERIA — Another Palermo parilla. More expensive, but their pre-dinner gin and tonics and amazingly cooked lamb make it worth it. Plus, they have a whole shelf dedicated to imported hot sauces, so if you’re craving spice, go here.
GRAN DABBANG — Asian fusion restaurant that’s delicious.
SORIA — An awesome outdoor/patio bar.
ZEN VEGAN BUFFET — A quick, vegetarian, Chinese spot right by our La Maquinita Villa Crespo work space. Good for a grab and go lunch, which is hard to find in BA.
MALVON — A very Gram-able brunch spot with an excellent weekend brunch deal.
