WHERE IN THE WORLD IS THAT SLORR EP. 14
This is starting to feel like when Buffy the Vampire Slayer went through its whole series finale and then they were like, “JK, you get more, even though we killed her.”
I’m not even going to apologize for that spoiler alert because the show ended (for the second time) in 2003, and if you’re not caught up by now, I can’t help you.
Japan.
That’s where the series finale of Remote Year: Cousteau Lindsay slOrr ends.
I’ve wanted to go to Japan since I first lived in Asia in 2011. And also since I saw Lost In Translation for the first time. It seemed like this futuristic mecca where everything was just better, and it a lot of ways, I found that to be true.
But pro tip to all you Remotes, maybe don’t save a two week long sprint through a country you’ve dreamed of visiting for years at the end of your year long marathon. You will be too tired, and you will also be too forgiving of yourself. My last day in Tokyo I only got out of bed to get a burger and go to the airport.
Big props to my Cruise Director, Katie Clair. She did pretty much all of our trip planning, and we were able to cover a ton of ground in only 2 weeks.
First things first, get a JR Rail Pass. You can do Japan more cheaply by bus, but the Rail Pass is the most efficient way to get around the country, while still keeping your day to day flexible. It also includes things besides train rides (we got to ride a hop on/hop off bus in Hiroshima for free). You have to buy from a travel agent before you land in Japan and there’s a calculator available so you can see if you really need one, based on your itinerary.
Hakone: This is a really great place to see Mt Fuji from. Sad news: the visibility the day we were there was like 10 feet in front of us due to incredibly thick fog. I’d keep this as a flexible destination, definitely go if the forecast looks clear. We stayed in a ryokan here and enjoyed the experience.
Osaka: Osaka castle is nice to look at from the outside, but I didn’t enjoy the inner museum too much. Food in this town is incredible. My restaurant recommendations are going to be a bit different this time and broken down by cities.
DINING AJITO — it was an amazing izakaya (gastropub, think a more diverse menu) and one of my favorite meals in Japan.
AL’S KITCHEN — Good Pakistani food and if you’re looking to mix up your Japanese cuisines with some spice and flavor go here!
Nara: We did a day trip here and I’d definitely prioritize the Japanese gardens that are a little removed from the main shrine you can see. The walk through the enchanted forest was nice to.
WAKASA CURRY — Got the job done for some warm, spicy food on a very cold day.
Himeji Castle: We stopped here on our way from Osaka to Hiroshima and if you’ve got the time definitely make the pit stop, it’s a beautiful castle and the inside hasn’t been renovated to be a museum, like the Osaka castle.
Hiroshima: I wish we’d had more time here. The town has a cool vibe, with a lot of food and fun options. The Peace Park is incredible and definitely see the A-Dome.
ラクビア 三川町 — We went here for some beer. The owner was nice and spoke English and helped us order.
Miyajima: Cool gate in the water that’s supposed to mark the boundary between the physical and spiritual worlds. Very easy to get to from Hiroshima and you can use your JR Pass the whole way. Check the tides the day before you go so you know when the gate will be partially submerged or not.
Kyoto: Cool town that we didn’t explore as much as Osaka, in terms of area covered. We mainly stuck to the Nishiki Market Shopping Street area and the Gion District. I’d definitely recommend a Geisha walking tour of Gion. Though we didn’t see any geikos (then), it was really informative and fun.
RAMEN SEN NO KAZE — Delicious ramen with a long wait.
SOUR — Awesome sochi cocktails made with fresh fruits and juices around the corner.
SPEAKEASY — It’s on the third floor above Elefant Factory Coffee. I don’t know the name, but they’ll make delicious custom cocktails based on your preference of alcohol and flavor.
酒亭ばんから — Good Izakaya. No English menu but the staff was helpful when ordering.
And for the final chapter, Tokyo:
We stayed in the Ebisu neighborhood which was awesome as a JR Pass holder because we could use the Yamonote line to get to all the neighborhoods we wanted to check out. You’re close to Shibuya and Shinjuku but in a real neighborhood. I’d definitely recommend it as a place to stay.
TSUKIJI FISH MARKET — I didn’t do the 4am tour. We showed up near 10am when the market opens to the public. We then wandered into a random sushi restaurant and I got the most giant piece of eel I’ve ever seen.
YOYOGI PARK — Really cool sight seeing in Tokyo. You’ll forget you’re in the middle of a massive metropolitan city.
TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT BUILDING — Their observation deck is free!
SAKAEYA KIMONO SHOP — You can get made to order yukatas for $100 and sleeping yukatas for $30–40. You have to book an appointment, and if you want second hand kimonos, she needs a few days notice. Definitely go here she was super helpful and awesome.
CHICAGO — Good vintage store in Harajuku to get second hand kimonos.
ROBOT RESTAURANT — Tourist trap in Shinjuku. You should still do it. Go full and go drunk.
NAMIKBASHI NAKAMURA — Really delicious izakaya.
BITTER VALLEY GRILL — Cool pub across the street from Namikbashi that let me sort their movies into good and bad and changed it to one I picked.
AFURI — Delicious Ramen spot in Ebisu.
HARAJUKU GYOZA-RO — Great gyoza. There’s usually a line.
Get some wagyu beef. No matter the cost, it’s amazing.
