KAYA’s Algorithmic Climbing Workouts
With Joseph Diaz
Training is a complicated subject and the internet is rife with information, workouts, and advice — good and bad. KAYA Workouts seek to simplify the process of training by algorithmically suggesting problems for each workout! Based on your recent climbing history, KAYA selects problems that are the correct intensity for each session and energy system.
By auto-selecting problems for each workout, KAYA Workouts removes the selection bias typically that normally accompanies any climbing workout. KAYA’s algorithm doesn’t care if you hate slopers and shy away from crimps — you’ll be encouraged to try problems of varying styles, hold types, and wall angles, making for strong, well-rounded climbers. These tools make self-guided coaching accessible for everyone.
We enlisted Joseph Diaz, a California climber and content creator, to be our guinea pig. He recorded his process and made a great video explaining the feature and his experience using it with KAYA’s Coach Jess. Read on to learn more about each of our training sessions and check out Joseph’s video to see what he gained from the process.
1. Endurance
Endurance climbing sessions are focused on increasing stamina by selecting a high volume of easy problems. The work to rest ratio is 1:1, meaning you’ll rest for as long as it took you to climb each problem. This is an easier session that helps increase overall stamina while honing technique.
Joseph climbed 25 problems graded V2.
Climbs: Easy
Rest: 1:1 work to rest ratio
Attempts: Up to 25
Workload Score: 600
2. Aerobic Capacity
The Aerobic Capacity session is a higher intensity version of the Endurance session. With both less rest and harder boulders than the endurance session, the goal of this session is to increase capacity to manage fatigue while establishing a substantial pump.
This session, Joseph climbed 15 V3’s, resting for half as long as he climbed.
Climbs: Moderate
Rest: 2:1 work to rest ratio
Attempts: Up to 30
Workload Score: 800
3. Anaerobic Capacity
The Anaerobic Capacity session should be completed on problems three grades below max and is designed to increase the number of quality attempts you can give on harder climbs.
Joesph climbed 12 V4s in a single session, resting at least 4 minutes between attempts.
Climbs: Moderate-Hard
Rest: 4 Min between attempts
Attempts: Up to 20
Workload Score: 1000
4. Strength
The Strength session will feel really familiar to most boulderers. These workouts are comprised of doable climbs near your top end grade. Everything from your hardest flash-go’s to your week long projects.
Joseph was working six problems in the V5-V7 range with 4 minutes of rest between attempts.
Climbs: Hard
Rest: 4 min between attempts
Attempts: Up to 15
Workload Score: 1000
5. Limit
The Limit session selects 4 climbs above your max grade.
This session focuses specifically on advancing your skills a climber, taxing your muscles and tendons to the max, and forcing new adaptations of maximum strength and power. The goal isn’t to send but to become more comfortable with difficult positions, and to string together more complex moves than you’re used to.
For Joseph, this session included problems in the V8–9 range.
Climbs: Limit
Rest: 4 Min between attempts
Attempts: Up to 8
Workload Score: 1000
6. Recovery Session
Not included in the video, Recovery sessions are meant to loosen muscles, promote blood flow, and mentally recharge. This session will be shorter and less taxing than the endurance workout.
Joseph completed these on climbs in the V0-V2 range.
Climbs: Easy
Rest: 1:1 work to rest ratio
Attempts: Up to 15
Workload Score: 600
Ultimately, Joseph found that KAYA Workouts provided structure to his sessions which he lacked previously. By taking out the guesswork and bias of selecting your own climbs, KAYA Workouts makes training simple and effective.
