在日本買 bdk PARFUMS
日本香水專櫃 ノーズショップ
今年一月中疫情還沒爆發時去北海道滑雪，倒數第二天回到札幌市區，當然要到這個香水專櫃「ノーズショップ」（NOSESHOP）晃一下。日本櫃姐都跟天使一樣，聊天聊一聊現場也手癢買了 bdk （此時迷香人還未引進 bdk）。但因為去 Kiroro 滑雪噴太多錢，只敢買小 ml 數的。
東京、神奈川、大阪也有專櫃，每個專櫃販售的品牌也有一點些微的出入，據點跟品牌可以到官網查詢。以 NOSESHOP 新宿店為例，有販售的品牌如下，（）中表示我所知的台灣販售點（但我可能會有漏掉的…）。
取扱ブランド
LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO｜ラボラトリオ・オルファティーボ （席哈諾）
AGONIST｜アゴニスト（迷香人）
Abel｜アベル（ARTIFACTS）
kerzon｜ケルゾン（1010 Apothecary）
Son Venin｜ソン・ヴェーン
ANDREA MAACK｜アンドレア・マーク（Maison Noir）
Stora Skuggan｜ストラ スクガン（迷香人）
unum｜ウナム
extrait de musique｜エキストレドミュージック
NEBBIA｜ネビア
Histoires de Parfums｜イストワール ドゥ パルファン
MAD ET LEN｜マドエレン（誠品信義）
D.S.&DURGA｜ディーエスアンドダーガ（ARTIFACTS）
ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE｜エタ リーブル ド オランジェ（迷香人）
L’ORCHESTRE Parfum｜オーケストラパルファム
ZOOLOGIST｜ズーロジスト（迷香人）
NICOLAI｜ニコライ
ELISIRE｜エリザイア
NASOMATTO｜ナーゾマット（ART HAUS）
ORTO PARISI｜オルト パリージ
Maison Louis Marie｜メゾン ルイ マリー （ARTIFACTS）
bdk Parfums｜ビーディーケーパルファム（迷香人）
AETHER｜エーテル
CIRO｜シロ
Tauer Perfumes｜タウアー・パフューム
Room 1015｜ルーム・テン・フィフティーン
Maya Njie｜マイヤ・エンジャイ
專櫃上也有販售很多試管香水，而且會用各種顏色的標籤貼紙：如粉紅、黃、綠等色來標註該香水是屬於花香調、果香調、還是木質調等不同香調。如果你有特別喜歡的調性，有這樣的標註其實相當方便。
（我記得之前好像有試管香扭蛋，但2020年年初去時就撤掉了。）
專櫃上也會提供的各個品牌的的 flyer，讓你立即可以了解這品牌的故事以及各個香水的介紹：香調、ml 數、與價格等。雖然有點老派，但面對玲琅滿目的各種品牌，如果是第一次看到這個 niceh perfume 的品牌，也是可以讓顧客快速了解該品牌的風格跟價位、還有香水的調性是什麼。
日本有販售的 bdk 跟台灣好像也有一點不同，而且日本還有 10ml 的旅行香款式，以下簡單比較一下 bdk PARFUMS 在台灣跟日本販售的款式。
bdk PARFUMS 的故事
由年輕的調香師 David Benedek 在巴黎 Palais Royal 區所創立的獨立香水品牌。他堅持使用最高級天然原料的同時，基於「用香水說故事」的主題，他的香水作品的靈感均是被他所創作的故事中各個角色（例如角色本身的生動臉部表情或動作、以及輪廓等）所啟發。他的祖父母與父母經營一家高級香水店，出生於香水世家的他，在大學學習時裝和香水經營相關知識，又在一家全球最大的香氛品製造商工作之後，選擇了創業這條路。他熱愛著他的出生地巴黎，且在巴黎受到很多的啟發，因此非常自豪於能成為巴黎的品牌。香水的瓶蓋是由巴黎金匠手工製作，瓶身也是由諾曼地知名玻璃師傅全手工製作。他追求「真實」，目標為講究材料與製造方式的法式傳統製程。他所創造的香水，或許可被稱作是現代經典香水（Nouveau Classic）。
（NOSESHOP 官網：bdk 目前僅在新宿店、池袋店販售）
EDP 100ml ￥22,000 （Collection Parisienne）
EDP 100ml ￥25,000（Collection Matières）
P.S. 根據 bdk 官網：
- Collection Parisienne: BOUQUET DE HONGRIE, PAS CE SOIR, ROUGE SMOKING, GRIS CHARNEL, NUI DE SABLE
- Collection Matières: TUBÉREUSE IMPÉRIALE, WOOD JASMIN, OUD ABRAMAD, CRÉME DE CUIR
（以下香水中文翻譯有的參考迷香人）
Collection Parisienne
BOUQUET DE HONGRIE 狄米特花嫁
日本櫃姐表示，這款日本銷售第一：
這邊跟以下會直接放上 bdk 官網該香水的故事，原文意境比較清晰。
She’s getting ready. It’s a beautiful day. The sky is blue. She puts her naked foot on the floor and like a dancer, travels the distance of the mirrored hallway to the dressing table. It’s one of her favourite spots. She likes getting pretty there. There are only flowers from the garden, and both her hands, fresh and clean, which seem to spin around them. Her right hand, agile and light, grabs her powder, then a bottle of perfume. Her left hand clutches eye shadow and nude lipstick. She then moves on to the closet, where she picks a light dress and fixes a rebel strap. She slides on pair of heels and fastens a belt around her waist. Just like every morning, she walks towards her balcony full of flowers. It’s on the 4th floor and overlooks the gardens of Palais Royal. She is happy and thinks of her day ahead, smiling.
前調：西洋梨、黑醋栗、草莓
中調：土耳其玫瑰、沙巴茉莉、Lorenox（帶木質、琥珀、皮革感的分子）
後調：麝香、雪松、琥珀
PAS CE SOIR
（我一直很想翻「今晚先不要」，然後腦海中會浮現陳漢典ＸＤ）
根據櫃姐再次表示，這款日本銷售第二：
Just like every night, Madam is getting ready in her office. She won’t have time to go back home. She freshens up, touches her make-up: red velour lipstick sometimes Bordeaux depending on her mood. She brushes her hair and takes out her necklace from her purse. Her white shirt slightly open highlights her inviting curves. She adds a bit more black to her eyes. She slams the front door as her heels strides on the sidewalk. Just like every Thursdays, she’s going to the cabaret Place de la Concorde. Madam has high hopes like every night. She likes people; she loves life. She finds a stool at the bar and orders a whiskey with ice before lighting her cigarette. In the darkness, she makes out a silhouette in front of her. She turns to the side. It’s him. It’s always him. Their path often cross but they never speak. She smiles, gets up and goes dancing. Alone. Men line up for her attention, she politely replies. Madam is chic, she responds. Close to 2am while a dandy looking men catches her eyes and invites her to dance. She abides but only for a short period, she leans in says she has to go home. She likes him but the morning is soon approaching. She leaves after whispering these words in his ears… « Not tonight »
前調：黑胡椒、生薑、柑橘
中調：摩洛哥茉莉、木瓜酸辣醬、橙花（Orange blossom）
後調：開司米酮、廣藿香，琥珀木
＊Cashmeran 在 wiki 上的說明：Cashmeran (trade name; also known as musk indanone or indomuscone; chemical name 6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone or DPMI) is a chemical compound used in fragrances. 是調香中用到的化合物。
ROUGE SMOKING 紅磨坊煙波
At nightfall, the sky becomes misty letting the red light of the mill glimpsing through the window. The horns sound and the spirit of celebration comes to the city. In front of her mirror, she’s getting ready and doing her makeup. It’s time for beauty to go on stage. She goes toward her wardrobe, inspired by that tuxedo that will enhance her bodylines. It is the Parisian glam, she knows it well, the trends too. Her bohemian style and erotic energy leaves indelible footprints on the streets. She is Pigalle, beautiful and mysterious…
前調：義大利香檸檬、櫻桃、粉紅漿果（此處官網是 Pink berries 但日文是寫 ピンクローズ = pink rose，忠於官網囉）
中調：香草、天芥菜
後調：龍涎香醇自氧化產物、開司米酮、零陵香豆、勞丹脂、白麝香
NUIT DE SABLE 荒煙剪影
In this garden of the sumptuous Palais Royal, out of sight, the pages of a book are slowly turning. Intrigued, a silhouette advances to start the conversation. It is there, at the end of the afternoon, sitting on a bench in front of a sumptuous bed of roses with a scent mixed with sand, where they meet. Carefree of the time that passes, reality ends up catching them. The guard’s keys come to close the garden doors…
前調：瓜地馬拉小荳蔻、印尼肉豆蔻、孜然
中調：土耳其玫瑰原精、玫瑰醚、熱沙
後調：澳洲檀香、零陵香豆原精、龍涎香醇自氧化產物、麝香
GRIS CHARNEL 銀色の情欲
Quai Saint-Bernard, near the Jardin des Plantes, the first couples arrive at the Tino-Rossi garden. As the night falls, the number of dancers increases and the bleachers fill up. Under the silver moon and the lights of the tourist barges that criss-cross the quay a few metres away, the bodies mingle to the rhythm of the music. It is then that two glances cross paths. A discreet invitation brings them to the centre of the track. As if they were carried away, they dance in the heat of the night. From this hand-to-hand seduction punctuated by knowing smiles, they end up slipping away to give free flow to more carnal desires. In the early morning, the sheets give off a scent of sleepless nights, mischievous and lascivious embraces.
前調：無花果、紅茶、小荳蔻精油
中調：鳶尾花原精、波本岩蘭草
後調：印度檀香、零陵香豆原精
Collection Matières
TUBÉREUSE IMPÉRIALE 帝國晚香玉
Nonchalant, she walks with regular strides. Her headpiece and the swing of her hips are well rehearsed. She doesn’t want to seem to pretty in her white headdress. Sovereign, she faints ignorance while passer-by’s stares cover the light coloured turban that unfolds in a corolla. Her frail silhouette sways proudly under the weight of this crown of sunshine: the envy of all flowers.
前調：粉紅胡椒、埃及天竺葵
中調：印度晚香玉、葛摩伊蘭伊蘭、沙巴茉莉、鳶尾花、埃及茉莉
後調：開司米酮、檀香、索馬利亞焚香、馬達加斯加香草、新加坡廣藿香、蘇門答臘安息香、絲柏
WOOD JASMIN 茉莉淚
He walks along the long wooded pathway and a strange light shimmering with gold appears. Suddenly, the skies darkens, rainfall drops on his skin pushed by a slight breeze. Silhouettes form behind him and he realises he’s being followed. A sweet and melodious chant almost surreal emerges. Behind this wall of Jasmine flowers is a fairy. She is laying on the water, her golden hair caressing the stream. He is fascinated and approaches her to collect drops of this precious elixir. But before night falls, he must leave. These woods are as gorgeous as they are mysterious.
前調：李子、西洋梨
中調：埃及茉莉、沙巴茉莉、土耳其玫瑰、達瓦南
後調：索馬利亞焚香、馬達加斯加香草、印尼廣藿香、西班牙勞丹脂、印度莎草
OUD ABRAMAD 莎樂美的餘燼
At dawn, the doors close. The light coloured marble has kept the intoxicating heat of the day. It seems as if the lush garden is soothing, and the trees open their arms. The desert’s night creeps under the arcades and the garden seems circled by alcoves. Someone silently crosses the darkness. You can hear the subtle sound of fabric draping like a cloak over the discreet sound of the leather’s patina. The silhouette slow and haughty floats through the silenced garden. Maybe it’s Abramad… heavy door opens and a glimmer of light filters through. A proud shadow covers the stone in the trail of the golden light. She disappears. Lift your heard towards the seven windows of the palace opened like big black eyes. In the hushed obscurity, someone stands facing the desert.
前調：番紅花、生薑
中調：土耳其玫瑰、小茴香、
後調：沉香木、癒創木、岩薔薇、焚香、廣藿香、海貍香、Orcanox（龍涎香主要成分）
CRÈME DE CUIR 愛洛特之光
It’s the Indian summer, when the hot days are over and the sweet freshness of the evening begins to fall. A sensual elixir marked with white and beige hues, a pure representation of contemporary sensuality. The perfume evolves through the monochromatic style of Rothko where materials are dancing in circle one after another one. The leather is stripped down, dusted of any impurities, made it white and pure. The green notes embrace passionately while musk and bergamot push to the skies of Italy.
前調：柑橘、香檸檬、鳳梨
中調：粉紅漿果、白麂皮、檀香
後調：香草、樺木焦油、白麝香、Grey musk （查不到，但好像也不能直譯為灰麝香）
Collection Azur
（這系列迷香人好像沒有）
SEL D’ARGENT 銀鹽
Late afternoon on the rocks of the Isle of Beauty. The silver sea glimmers under the fading light. Our last swim was barely an hour ago and I can still taste the salt on my skin. The waves are subsiding little by little, and the moon, discreet, is rising in the sky as the red sun sets. On the way home, the scent of the fig trees perfumes the early evening and the fresh, clear sea air already signals the wistfulness of the end of summer.
前調：義大利香檸檬精油、葡萄柚、海鹽
中調：突尼西亞橙花原精（Orange Blossom）、馬達加斯加伊蘭伊蘭精油、伊朗 Galbanum 精油 （波斯植物中主要是阿魏和魯比阿魏種所產出的樹膠樹脂）
後調：龍涎香醇自氧化產物、開司米酮、Timbersilk（這被視為是升級版的龍涎酮 — Iso E Super，但組成不大一樣）
CITRUS RIVIERA 橙色海岸（對我亂翻ㄉ）
Leaving Paris, heading south, I reach the Cap d’Antibes. It’s here in this white house that I find those forgotten feelings again, of the breeze that freshens the veranda, of the warmth of the steps leading to the garden, and of the turquoise water gleaming in the pool. I lie down under the lemon trees, in the shade, and scan the blue sky, where a few clouds drift, lost. The song of the cicadas is slowly replaced by laughter. The sun’s rays stroke my face, and I am soothed; seduced by the sweetness of summer.
前調：摩洛哥橙花、義大利柑橘、義大利檸檬、無花果
中調：摩洛哥橙花原精（Orange Blossom）、茉莉、草莓、尤加利樹、永生花原精
後調：白麝香、印尼廣藿香、海地岩蘭草、零陵香豆原精
迷香人近期內好像要引進這款，屬於 Collection Exclusive
TABAC ROSE
A dense and potent elixir that pays tribute to the most famous of all flowers used in perfumery. David Benedek chose to work with rose in a different manner in order to unveil its atypical facets. Tabac Rose is a fragrance that expresses textures, highlighting oriental and mysterious sensuality depicted in layers of pink, purple and plum shades. Opulent addictive tobacco, boosted by delectable plum and chocolate join forces with the majestic Turkish rose. IFF perfumer Julien Rasquinet brought contrast by adding spicy notes of pink pepper and cinnamon. The sweet voluptuousness is prolonged thanks to the deep and mystical notes of patchouli and labdanum.
前調：馬達加斯加粉紅胡椒、李子、義大利檸檬
中調：土耳其玫瑰、馬達加斯加肉桂、巧克力
後調：巴爾幹菸草、印尼廣藿香、西班牙勞丹脂
光是查香材翻成中文就花不少時間，哪天我心血來潮我就會把英文故事給翻一翻ＸＤ。如果日本解禁可以飛去日本的話，有興趣的人可以去專櫃上晃晃，看看台灣目前買不到的品牌，櫃姐人都跟天使一樣歡樂～只是他們好像只能說日語（不過有的就算免稅後也賣得比台灣貴）。
