Nestled in the more secluded northeastern region of India are several unique tribal groups, each diverse and distinct in their own right. Every group faces immense challenges in maintaining their linguistic and cultural diversity, as globalization and external influences perpetually challenge and erode the age-old traditional practices and knowledge of the people in this region. Additionally, the unique biodiversity of the region is also at stake, as profit-minded entities continually attempt to dislodge the fragile environment in pursuit of “development” projects.
In an overtly entrenched patriarchal country, surprisingly, there exists in Northeast India a state that comprises three tribal groups who ardently continue to practice the matrilineal system. Meghalaya is a hill-station state where the Khasi, Jaiñtia, and Garo tribal groups reside. Since time immemorial, these groups have passed down family name, wealth, and land title from mother to daughter. The Khasi and Jaiñtia people are more similar to each other in characteristics and customs, so more often than not, they are considered of the same group, particularly by outsiders.
In an overtly entrenched patriarchal country, surprisingly, there exists in Northeast India a state that comprises three tribal groups who ardently continue to practice the matrilineal system.
Being home to one of the only thriving matrilineal groups in the world, the majority of members in the state are fiercely protective of this tradition. They have repeatedly shunned any efforts promoted by, comically enough, local male rights groups — akin to a feminist movement — to change the system. Small in number and popularly considered a shame to the society, members of such groups allege that their intention is a manifestation of the ever-increasing need to justify a man’s role in the tribes due to evolving changes. Given the overt modern and external influences seeping into the society, there have been latent and manifest challenges to the matrilineal society, mindset, and customs.
Although the majority of the population in the area has converted to Christianity following the proselytization activities of Welsh and other missionaries from the early nineteenth century, there are a number of people who still practice the traditional Indigenous belief, a form of animism. While various local customs and practices were banned by the Church to its members or adapted to be in line with the Church’s preaching or Western thought, traditional knowledge and ways have inadvertently survived the test of time — matrilineal practice being one of them. Furthermore, as local educated Christians realize the importance of preserving their distinctive customs and culture, they are now more willing to attend and participate in traditional ceremonies and festivals, which in previous times might have been in opposition to the Church’s directives.
Meghalaya, meaning “the abode of the clouds,” is a plateau state, aptly named as it lies directly in the path of the southwest monsoon traveling north from the Bay of Bengal to the Himalayas. When the moisture-laden clouds hit the plateau, it results in tremendous amounts of rainfall, such that two locations in the state, Sohra and Mawsynram, repeatedly vie for the title of “world’s wettest place.” An abundance of rain has also translated into a significant variety of flora and fauna thriving in the region, to the extent that Meghalaya is considered one of the world’s hotspots of biodiversity. Through years of interaction with their environment, the tribes have come to develop unique methods and practices to make use of the conditions and resources present in their surroundings. Meghalaya was chosen to host the International Terra Madre festival in 2015, an event that seeks to showcase and popularize the traditions, foods, and lifeways of Indigenous communities from around the world.
Through years of interaction with their environment, the tribes have come to develop unique methods and practices to make use of the conditions and resources present in their surroundings.
This photo essay is my small effort to give the spotlight to the little-known matrilineal system and its home in Meghalaya, India. With a rich culture and diverse environment, the people of Meghalaya continue to face challenges to preserve their unique culture and habitat. It is my hope that projects such as this one may empower us to be proud of our heritage and offer motivation to seek avenues that aim to support our biocultural diversity. The popular adage that a photo speaks louder than a thousand words might be true, but nothing can compare to the exhilarating experience of coming to visit and supporting a unique location such as Meghalaya!
Indigenous seed is passed down from mother to daughter in most traditional families, and this practice has promoted the maintenance of a biodiverse seed stock.
Sacred forests are sites that locals will respect, regardless of beliefs.
Meghalaya now has a very egalitarian structure, considering the prestige and respect that has been accorded to women traditionally.
Living bridges stand as a testament to the unique interaction between people and nature in Meghalaya.
Raynold Lyngdoh is a Khasi tribal from Meghalaya, India. As an EthnoRisk practitioner, sociologist, and someone socialized in multicultural environments, his faith lies in the concept of “unity in diversity.” He and his wife, an ethnobotanist from North Dakota, USA, saunter between India and the United States. Together, they champion Indigenous seed-saving practices.