How War Influenced What We Wear
Daniel Nicholas Pakpahan for Le Citoyen on Sunday
Countless anti-war campaigns and literatures provided us with one reality: war is a grievous, despicable occurrence mankind has to suffer, all caused by their own sheer folly of having to resolve everything by means of violence and force. Yet we cannot regret the impact war has brought us, not only in the domain of technology and industry, but also how it reshaped pop culture in many ways such as in films, music, art, and of course, fashion. If you haven’t realized, the things we delight most in our wardrobes are actually products of warfare.
After seeing Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection showcased during Milan Fashion Week last January, I have to acknowledge one thing: military-influenced fashion is not going anywhere. It has proved to be a timeless style, stood through the test of time after many decades and still never showed any signs of fading away in the field of both menswear and womenswear. It is the synthesis of functionality and elegance, a perfect combination of being rugged but stylish. Have we ever wondered what will fashion become without the existence of war? Here are some items and styles you might or might not have known to be derived from the military.
White T-Shirt
That’s right, do not underestimate the value of a simple white T-shirt. This ageless and arguably the most important piece in your wardrobe has its military roots from 1913, employed as standard uniform for US Navy in both tropical terrain and also on deck. The classic short-sleeved cotton crewneck design helped soldiers bear the heat during duty.
But when the war was over, didn’t mean the style must cease to go on. Probably that was what James Dean thought.
Bomber Jacket
When Kanye donned the Alpha Industries MA-1 during his Yeezus tour back in 2015, the bomber jacket again received a massive surge in popularity. However this item is not a part of a trend, but a timeless piece possessing rich history in the military. It was actually born during World War I to protect pilots of bombardier airplanes (hence, bomber) from the freezing altitude in an open cockpit since enclosed cockpits weren’t introduced yet at the time. At first, The U.S. Army’s Aviation Clothing Board created thick leather and lined jackets and then in 1930’s the A-2 leather bomber jackets became the standard issue. The most iconic variant, the MA-1 that were made out of high-quality nylon outer and lining were issued between 1949 and 1950 to the U.S. Air Force and Navy pilots. Alpha Industries were the official military supplier of these jackets, with its first government contract was awarded in 1958 under the Dobbs Industries name. Now the bomber jacket has been a staple outerwear since the 20th century until present day.
Trench Coat
I bet whenever you heard the name ‘trench coat’ you must’ve associated it with Burberry. That is certainly a fact that early last century, Mr Thomas Burberry developed an officer’s water-repellent raincoat called the “Tielocken” and entered the design to the War Office in 1901. It came to be known as “trench coat” after being tested under the most extreme circumstances during the WWI trench wars by British Army officers. Although there’s another source confirming Aquascutum as the pioneer brand of these jackets, having made similar waterproof coats for officers in Crimean War back in 1853, the trench coat is almost synonymous to Burberry for its gabardine fabric, large lapels, convertible collar and epaulets, an embodiment of the British heritage.
Chinos
When summer comes, let’s bid farewell to jeans and say hello to chinos. This garment, crafted from pure twill cotton, is the middle ground of smart and casual. It first originated from khakis, the trousers worn by 1840s British troops in India as means of camouflage behind the yellowish earth tones (it was derived from the Persian word “khak,” which means earth, dust or ashes). Nowadays it came with all sorts of colour and cuts, but chinos are still an essential element you’ll need if you want to nail that look worth being featured in the Take Ivy.
Cardigan
This sophisticated piece when worn right has its name credited to the seventh Earl of Cardigan, James Thomas Burdenell. He was also a British Army Major General, who led the (rather hopeless) Charge of the Light Brigade at the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War and had these knits commissioned for the British soldiers. Early designs were sleeveless, almost resembling a waistcoat but then sleeved designs were created and became what we now wear outside during those cooler days. Sorry Nirvana fans, Kurt did not invent them.
Dr Martens
The Docs were created by Klaus Martens, a 25-year-old German doctor during World War II who realized that the hard leather soles in military boots are not only uncomfortable but also lack cushioning, making soldiers prone to ankle injuries. Although Doc Martens boots were not military footwear, it certainly took some inspirations from the army.
Camouflage
This pattern that you see a lot lately, most notably in hoodies by A Bathing Ape, is a pattern worn first by the French Army by painting them in all their military uniforms, weapons, and observation posts. It came from the the Parisian slang term camoufler (meaning “to disguise”) since it enabled them to blend into the jungle war scenes in World War I.
There’s still a lot more, but I guess these are enough to confirm that war has the biggest influence in the way we look and what we wear every day. So if you still chant “War, what is it good for? Absolutely nothin’!” Sincerely, I beg to differ (obviously you’re just not that fashion-conscious).
