The Pandemic Has Been Good for Fashion, Here’s Why
A Look At Emerging Talent in NYFW Fall/Winter 2021
By Ali Khan | Instagram: @fashion_film_fetish
The recent edition of New York Fashion Week held amidst the pandemic and an apocalyptic retail scene that has decimated the playing field opened the way for new entrants as more and more members of the old guard were forced to vacate the spotlight.
Whether it was bankruptcies that shuttered some or bureaucracies of large corporations that slowed down an understanding to shifts in the cultural climate, spring cleaning of the fashion industry was overdue. This was vital for the long-term health of the industry.
Simultaneously, emerging designers seemed to have a natural inclination towards addressing social issues head-on. While older brands were busy denying the winds of change, new designers were embracing and integrating the beginnings of a movement; many times because these issues are high stakes and a matter of survival, such as police brutality or climate change. Unlike the old guard often at best offering only lip service under heavy pressure, new designers demonstrate a consistent commitment to addressing complex social issues season after season. As these problems come to the fore the competitive edge has shifted in their favor. Arguably this shift is not only vital to the long-term health of the fashion industry but society at large. We hope to introduce you to a sampling of the new generation of designers who have the potential for longevity.
Before we get to the reviews, let’s get one thing out of the way— digital fashion weeks are no substitutes for the real thing. The film format of the show continues to take focus and authenticity away from the clothes as the centerpiece.
Whether through production design or simply through the angles of the camera shot, fashion films impose another person’s perspective onto the collection forcing the viewer to sift through directorial choices rather than see the collection purely from their perspective (as one would in a live show). Manipulation flourishes if not handled with the essential goal of a fashion show in mind which is, at the end of the day, a presentation of goods for professional buyers and media critics’ appraisal. Hence, sole reliance on fashion films continues to chip away at the integrity of the fashions being presented.
Chelsea Grays | Instagram: @ __chelsea.g
One of the highlights among upcoming young brands was Chelsea Grays out of (surprise, surprise) Paris with a gender-fluid collection featuring enough skirts and quilts to make even Jeremy O. Harris envious (brand muse perhaps?).
During our live Tweet, we noted the show looked particularly inspired. The pandemic took an immense toll and designers were not immune. If they suffered loss, depression, and were isolated you saw it. But Gray’s work shined through the collective malaise without ignoring it. Perhaps her continuous commitment to self-reflection and integrating the happenings of the world (2018 Police Brutality Campaign, 2017 Government World Order Campaign) gave way to a collection that is full of life, a life that directly confronts the challenges to its flourishing. The title, “Homage to 2020” Fall/Winter 2021 speaks to this and encapsulates Gray’s emotions and intellect.
“To understand fashion I have to understand myself. My impact on the world, my passion for change and positive influence is expressed through creative design.” — Chelsea Gray website, `About’
There was a great play with fabrics, textures, prints, and colors which added to the collection’s feel of being inspired as well as eclectic. Harsh utilitarian details mixed with soft vintage knits, and upcycled jumpers layered with sharp tailoring, set around a story of muted colors that were reminiscent of old photographs.
The collection managed to touch on such social issues as police brutality and homelessness while still very much within the relevancy of current fashion moods — a no small feat in itself.
Complementing and showcasing the collection was a very well-done fashion film that stayed true to the runway presentation albeit in very lively settings in Paris.
Private Policy | Instagram: @privatepolicyny
Another young label Private Policy had a solid outing with a collection that was contemporary, utilitarian, and full of wardrobe staples that you would want in your closet this winter.
The invitation notes for the collection spoke of finding inspiration in the Chinese Immigrants who helped build the Transcontinental railway in the US and reiterated the brand’s commitment to highlighting social causes each season.
We appreciate the specificity of each collection’s issue (enslaved fisherman — SS17, human’s relationship with money — FW19, the dark side of American big pharma- FW20) since the very general and overused terms of sustainability and inclusiveness warrants some questions. Strong themes with historical references are ambitious and require a certain amount of deftness (Alexander McQueen’s Highland Rape). Without that, the collection risks becoming another example of shallow bait for issues that are truly disturbing (regardless of the intent).
For example, the parkas, coats, vests, and trousers with a crisp tailored silhouette featuring quilting and utilitarian pockets that formed the mainstay of the collection, gave an obvious nod to the Helmut Lang archives or, if you want to be more current, Alexander Wang, than it did to anything significantly historical from the mid-1800s. However, we acknowledge their dedication to the cause which is evident in their partnership with the Museum of Chinese in America and their financial contribution of 30% of all sales of their “We Remember You” t-shirt.
The color story revolved around black and other neutrals with accents of pink that gave an otherwise restraint collection a much-needed edge. All in all, a good commercial effort that elevates streetwear into something more professional wear. Evidently, a successful strategy when you see their stockists include Selfridges, Printemps.com, and Harvey Nichols HK.
Victori Li | Instagram: @victorli
Victor Li is a designer based in New York City offering an alternative to the dominant streetwear trend with “menswear-silhouette inspired” unisex collections. The Victor Li digital presentation was a treat for sore eyes and ears but showed a collection that was awkwardly brimming with cowboy references and tie-dye prints (a trend that was cycling just a year ago) making it a curious choice for inspiration.
The pieces themselves were equally repetitive — denim, fleece, and cotton treatments mixed with upcycling details that we’ve seen countless times on the runway before.
The choice to compliment these fabrics and textures with an oversized dollar bill, etc. that referenced ‘Americana’ invoked themes of the old vs. the new ‘west’. This hinted at the potential of a strong statement but with so few outfits in the collection, the point made was faint. The collection is undoubtedly visually appealing — it looks good but falls short of Li’s mission of “presenting cross-cultural ideas and techniques through design”.
KA WA KEY | Instagram: @kawakey
The London-based KA WA KEY continued to play on their ‘kawaii’ aesthetic referencing the designers’ Ka Wa Key Chow and Jarno Leppanen’s Asian and Scandinavian heritage. Key is a graduate of The Royal College of Art in London and a finalist at the H&M Design Award for his graduate collection showcased in “Double Je”, a contemporary art exhibition in Palais De Tokyo in Paris.
The collection and consequently the film took inspiration from characters such as Willy Wonka, Peter Pan, among others. The result was another bold, somewhat bohemian collection with an eclectic mix of stripes and plaids in bright colorways. Knitwear formed the foundation of the collection showing up in everything from pants, tops, jackets, and accessories.
Ka Wa Key’s visual narrative stands out, with Jarno Leppanen’s marrying of his cross-artistic background, helping to “translate Ka Wa Key’s unique designs into poetic visuals, films, and performance.”
Key Trends of the Fall/Winter 2021:
- A reimagining of the Western cowboy
- Gender fluid knitwear in bold colors and patterns
- Loose, oversized silhouettes
- Upcycling is here to stay, no longer a short-term or fringe trend
- 70's
Hope for The Future
As we go through another season of fashion weeks digitally, here’s hoping that the Spring/Summer ’22 edition will be back to an in-person affair and those who still opt out of putting on a fashion will truly only be the ones whose financial situation does not allow them to do so.
Le Fool’s mission is to inspire the public to think critically.
We embrace the limitations of an individual’s perspective and the power of its place in the collective.
By highlighting thought, action, and art that aspire to truth, our aim is to bring together those who want to exist with integrity in a pluralistic world.
