The Czech Republic Wants You to Experience the Bohemian Spirit Through its Low-key Fare
With over 8.5 million inhabitants and the home of the U.N., New York City is the global diplomatic capital. The city houses 117 foreign diplomatic offices which seek to make their countries attractive to Americans by using food as a diplomatic tool. However, only the Czech Republic has a restaurant in the same building as their consular office. Fittingly named Bohemian Spirit, the restaurant’s presence reflects how much the country’s tumultuous past is embodied in its food and why Americans are receptive to eating it.
The country occupies the historic Bohemian National Hall in the Upper East Side. It was built in the 1890s as a Czech immigrant community center. Originally owned by a Czech literary group, the government purchased the building in 2001 and renovated it in 2008 in honor of 90 years of Czechoslovak independence. Bohemian Spirit opened in 2016 as the third restaurant in the space, and focuses on low-key, traditional Czech fare. Because the area is historically Czech, this cuisine is especially apt as a diplomatic tool.
The menu at Bohemian Spirit plays into classic favorites familiar to the area. Svíčková, a roasted beef dish with vegetable gravy and bread dumplings, and guláš, a thick beef stew, are the biggest items on the menu. Other Czech staples include smažený sýr (a square of fried cheese), řízek (chicken scnitzel), and knedlíky (bread dumpings). All pair well with a glass of famous Czech beer or Becherovka, a popular digestif. These dishes also remain relatively unchanged from the country itself, maintaining further cultural ties.
Craig Cravens explores how the country’s history created these foods in his book “Culture and Customs of the Czech Republic and Slovakia”. The area’s poor farming land created a diet with few vegetables and many animal cheap animal products. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, shifting borders meant that Czech dishes were often local interpretations of Germanic or Slavic foods. Then, the period of communism from 1948 to the 1980s largely froze the cuisine in place. Menus were standardized across the country. Low-quality Soviet imports didn’t improve the lack of vegetables. These factors created a straightforward modern cuisine that also reflects Czech cultural values.
Although Czech cuisine remained low-key, it still provided a stable means of identity. “Czech people have gone through a lot of trouble in their history as a country,” says Charlotte Sparacino, communications director of the state-sponsored cultural center also in the hall. “Czechs closely hold onto traditional dishes; traditional food was their one constant throughout history,” she continues.
Vit Stuchl, the owner of Bohemian Spirit, is keen to the role this food plays in diplomacy. “Czech food remains very popular in this neighborhood,” he says, “Americans come in having gone to Prague or an event here…they love eating the culture.” Vit also notes how the neighborhood history’s plays into this. “Czech, Austrian, and German customers still stop by and always say ‘oh, this reminds me of my grandma’s cooking’.” Although he’s only been in business for just over a year, he considers it a resounding success.
Success also stems from the cuisine’s attractiveness to Americans. Vit notes how Americans are always looking for a satisfying meal that doesn’t cost much and never turn down good quality alcohol. Charlotte shares similar thoughts. “You get presented with a plate of meat and potatoes and a beer,” she says, “Most Americans like no-fuss food; they’re going to see that Czechs are simple, stick-to-you-values people not looking to be flashy.”
With all this history behind it, Czech food truly embodies the Bohemian spirit. The Czech government has recognized the potential of food in conducting their diplomacy, and Americans continue to welcome their food with an open stomach.
