Live, Love and Western Colorado

I have lived in Denver, Colorado for over 2 years now yet have seen very little of the rest of my new state. As someone who enjoys travel, I have always felt that traveling in state “didn’t count” — you had to board a plane or it wasn’t really a trip. Enter 2020: COVID-19, the global pandemic, and travel bans; it was time for me to redefine what travel meant to me. It is now July 1st and I haven’t been in an airport or on a plane since March, which is unheard of for a person like myself who used to keep to a 2 trip a month minimum. And yet! I have taken some amazing trips this year and, oddly enough, I must say I have COVID to thank for that.

This year I have been to Aspen, Basalt, Telluride, Ouray, Paonia, and Glenwood Springs — all beautiful cities in western Colorado that I likely never would’ve otherwise visited if not for the pandemic. Waterfalls, reservoirs, gorgeous vistas from great heights, rivers, creeks, ponds, and mountains galore; I’ve even been camping this year, something I hadn’t done since 2013! It has truly been a sublime experience getting to finally explore so much of the state I now call home. I would love to make this a travel post and tell you which city I loved best, but I honestly can not pick a favorite nor recommend one above the other. Each spot was beautiful and perfect in its own way, with different flavors and characters to make it unique and a one of a kind experience. Let me take you through a little of my time in each place.

ASPEN, CO — an adorable little town, situated in the Elk Mountains range of the Rocky Mountains, where you can find beautiful hikes and shop for your next pair of Louboutin’s. We opted for the hiking pastime and found a wonderful spot called Hunter Creek Trail. Being in Denver, you sometimes find yourself missing things like creeks and springs, so this trail really hit the spot as you spend most of it walking next to rushing water. It was an easy to moderate trail that left us feeling accomplished, rejuvenated and famished. With the Hunter Creek trail head so close to town, we were able to leave the car behind and wander directly into Aspen to slake our thirst and satisfy our growling stomachs. Not one to leave my meals to chance, I had searched online towards the end of our hike and found a wine & cheese shop in town that was offering charcuterie boards to go — if we’ve ever met, you know I rarely meet a charcuterie board I don’t like. $60 later (did I mention Aspen is a touch on the expensive side?), we were seated with meats, cheeses, and two refreshing summer cocktails. Oh, and some amazing homemade jam which my friend proceeded to wear, insisting I had “jammed her”, but we know the truth. We wrapped up our day with a snack from Jing’s and beers to go from Aspen Brewing Company, with a desire to come back someday.

BASALT, CO — To say this was a small town is an understatement, but though small, Basalt did not lack for charm. Its one main street had everything you needed, from a French Bistro that served delicious breakfast to a rustic craft coffee shop, an old western town feel saloon that was the clear local watering hole, and a pie shop we just couldn’t quit. I did expect much out of Basalt when we first arrived but I got so much more out of our time there than I could’ve imagined. Despite COVID, most of the restaurants and bars were still open for takeout and some even allowed for dine in, which was a refreshing change from Denver. Our first stop was a riverside pub that sat us on their patio overlooking the river and a sense of peace settled over me that remained for the entire weekend; I guess Basalt and small town living can do that to a girl. We did dine in our hotel room the first night, cozied up with a memorable ropa vieja pie from down the block and a bottle of red from home, but a late night walk under the stars set us right back into feeling like we were truly in the mountains. It felt like there wasn’t a single star you couldn’t see, they all shone so brightly. Driving distance to Aspen, 20 mins from Ruedi Reservior, sitting pretty next to the Roaring Fork River, and chock full of charm, Basalt is the place you never knew you needed.

TELLURIDE, CO — Highly regarded, frequently mentioned, and most assuredly worth the 6 hour drive, Telluride did not disappoint. Similar to Aspen, this is a town for folks with deep pockets, but don’t let that scare you away. Nestled in the San Juan Mountains, there isn’t a bad view in sight as you stroll down Colorado Ave. and cross paths with at least 25 grinning pups while searching for food. Whatever you do, don’t skip out on Smuggler’s Union; a restaurant and a brewery, this lovely little pub had the brews, the booze, the grub, and the views that immediately made it on my favorites list. I would make the drive back just for this spot! We sampled their wings, elk bolognase, a divine white truffle blue cheese burger, and several of their craft beers and all of the above leave me with no doubt that everything on the menu would be delightful. For a fancy night, check out COSMOpolitan, located in the Hotel Columbia just off the gondola. A pretty penny was spent, but the memories made and the flavors tasted were priceless. Get an early start (okay, we may not have made it out of bed until 10 am) and hike up Bear Creek Trail for a smashing, and splashing, photo with Bear Creek Falls. If you go on a really hot day and/or are a dare devil, you can even walk into the falls to cool off in the feels-like-recently-melted-ice waters. My only other advice? Swing by Telluride Brewing Company on your way out of town.

OURAY, CO — Known as the “Switzerland of America”, this quaint little town will have you feeling very small in what feels like the basin of Sawatch Range. Hop, skip, and jump over to Cascade Falls, the lower of which can be reached in just a 15 min walk from the center of town. My friend and I holed up at the Matterhorn Inn, which by the by, 10 out of 10 would recommend. I didn’t personally taste much of what Ouray has to offer in the way of food, but I will say you need to stop by Ray’s Jerky and buy at least 6 bags. With the friendliest of shop owners, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by their locally made jerky which they make in 5–6 flavors and also offer turkey jerky and elk. Sample and purchase it all, plus an Amish caramel. Then pack it all in your Camelbak and take the Ouray Perimeter Trail because why go to a beautiful town in the mountains if not to hike and scope those views.

PAONIA, CO — Warning, jaw dropping views ahead! Unsuspecting little Paonia, just a blip on the map between Ouray and Glenwood Springs, blew my socks off with it’s views and honestly fantastic wine. With only time to check out two wineries while passing through, we chose Azura & Endless Endeavor. Azura, 13 years in the making, had a vista that had me asking if I could move in. On a hillside with a private pond, you come for the complimentary tasting but you stay for the VIEWS. I cannot express this enough, these views are beyond the drive; I am already planning my next trip back. Julie, the sweetest greeter and server, let us sample a bit of everything on the menu and it was all delectable. Due to the heat and time of day, we selected the bottle of Pinot Noir Rosé and meandered down to the Azura Yacht Club Pond. Posted up there with our bottle and a views, I aptly described my time there as a “perfect moment”. Something I wouldn’t have changed even if I could, so peaceful, so magnificent, so simply perfect, I couldn’t have dreamt it better if I tried. Our second stop, Endless Endeavor, was only 2 years old yet you wouldn’t have known as you looked out over their vines and heard the passion in the winemakers tales. I learned more about grapes here than I have at any other winery I’ve visited and I think it was due in part to the warmth and joy emanating from the owner of this vineyard. What clearly began as a small passion project, I have no doubt will grow into a booming endeavor. I cannot wait to return as both a repeat customer for Azure and Endless, but also as an explorer of what else Paonia has to offer.

GLENWOOD SPRINGS, CO — I was drawn here by its proximity to the Colorado River, but I stayed here because of the walkability! Glenwood Springs has deservedly won awards for being among America’s most walkable communities; there is even a pedestrian bridge over the Colorado River letting us peds flock to and fro. Hot springs on hot springs, breweries all around, friendly people, and so many local food options to choose from, you won’t want to leave. I know I didn’t, to the point where, after 2 (or 7) drinks, I re-booked our hotel so we could stay another day. Rivers Restaurant will serve you beef so perfectly cooked you barely need a knife, Native Son will let you imbibe long after most of the town has gone to sleep, and Casey’s Brewing will let you sip their suds while being that annoying person with a laptop who never.effing.leaves. Top that off with a 2.5 hour visit to Iron Mountain Hot Springs and I was sold. Only 2.5 hours from Denver, I’ve been twice and I know I’ll be back, if only to experience Slope & Hatch’s scrumptious tacos again, while sitting riverside to the Colorado.

Denver is amazing, don’t get me wrong, but Colorado has so much more to offer than I ever realized. Can’t wait to keep exploring this absolutely stunning state and keep oversharing with you all about it.