Adventures in Copenhagen
36 Miles of Musings
Mile 28
The Little Mermaid enthralls literal bus- and boat-loads of tourists. Without a tour-guide or book, it’s lost upon me the significance of this particular diminutive sculpture, the second mermaid sculpture I’ve spotted in as many days. This particular mermaid is strongly associated as the symbol of Copenhagen though, so see it I must.
Mile 2
Still groggy from my airplane nap, my first stop in Copenhagen was the Round Tower or Rundetårn, an astronomical observatory whose height ought to give me the opportunity to see a 360 degree view to start off the trip.
On my way up the curved ramp, I stopped in to see the Museum of Broken Relationships. Opened only six weeks ago, the Danish arm of the Zagreb-originating exhibition was tastefully put together, and incredibly eerie. The headline piece is a pair of dismembered mannequin hands, posed together, yet incredibly apart. I left remembering my original mission, though wondering how the Museum chose their location.
By the time I made it to the top of the tower, the sun had risen. Or so I imagine — I couldn’t actually see it behind the misty haze over the city. A few cupolas and spires were visible (as were a few cranes as in any modern city), but even the harbor was shrouded. Indeed the escape from London I was looking for was literally overshadowed by London’s weather.
Mile 13
I followed the view of a corkscrew spire into Christianshavn and ended up at the Church of Our Saviour.
Despite being much smaller than the Cathedral, it was more elaborately furnished. A massive organ with elaborate wood carving and gilding symbolically held up by two carved elephants hung over the entrance. Opposite the organ stood an ornate altar in red and black marble depicting the Garden of Gethsemane. It was gorgeous, but the entire church was oddly unlit and had poor natural light — in deep contrast with the austere, white-washed, and very bright Cathedral.
Alas, the spire that drew me near was closed for the winter, and I could not ascend. Averted, I ventured back to the city.
Mile 23
The year’s first breakfast!
Mile 7
My last tourist stop for the day was the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (yes, that Carlsberg). Entering, I was immediately (after purchasing a ticket) drawn further in by a Winter Garden directly under the dome: palm trees, marble fountains, and all. It was an oasis in the cold city where — if not for my living 600 miles away — I could see myself frequenting just with a book and snacks on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
My eyes were immediately drawn to opposite sides of the garden, where two statues of Perseus and Medusa stood in rivaling collections. Sculpture collections (which I later found out is the literal definition of Glyptotek) are a favorite of mine, and this one would rival even that of the V&A: my favorite museum in London. Danish, French, and Roman statues and sculptures from antiquity to modernity were elegantly showcased around the museum. I particularly enjoyed that at the end of every section I was led once again to the Winter Garden, a few minutes of relaxation and reflection before I began the next section. The Imperial/Crown Prince and His Dog Nero jumped out at me — it being my favorite sculpture in the Musée d’Orsay and quite a shock to see in Copenhagen!
Mile 25
After the Memorial Anchor, I was confronted with a sign outlining the harbor’s walking tour, an 8-mile journey. Nearly instantaneously I decided against it, but commenced to walk along a small section which I henceforth mentally called the Inner Harbor in homage to Baltimore.
The Inner Harbor was full of tourists and runners, much like me eager for the sight of the gray skies over gray waters dotted with gray-speckled seagulls. Inadvertently, I mentally categorized the runners by those training for some pursuit such as Copenhagen’s May Marathon, and those who were starting up on New Year’s resolutions.
Mile 4
The rest of the first morning was spent at the National Museum of Denmark. They had a large portion dedicated to the early human history of Scandinavia, Jutland, and Zealand which was fantastically put together. Particularly fascinating was the influence of the coastal life and changing geography from the last Ice Age on the expansion of the Agricultural Revolution into the area.
I skimmed through the scenes of medieval and renaissance life and religious iconography typical of all European museums, lingering only on the sections about Vikings, Scandinavian wars, and fighting with England. After some more ambling, I headed out in search of lunch.
Mile 34
Mile 9
After a quick rest after Glyptotek, I made my way to BROR, a New Nordic restaurant where I adventurously asked for the tasting menu. With items like bull’s balls, cod head, beef lung ragu, and tuna tartare, I was able to sample a variety of Nordic foods in dishes small enough to brave. I left with tastebuds confused but stomach full, satisfied that I ventured away from gastropub cooking.
Other than a 3am serenading by locals at a nearby bar, I survived my first day in Copenhagen and made it to New Year’s Eve.
Mile 11
New Year’s Eve and it seemed that the whole city was closed down, though with the disgusting weather one could believe that everyone was just home huddled around fireplaces drinking some gløgg. At the Christiansborg Palace complex, most of the museums were closed, though the horses from the riding school still needed to be trotted. The Palace, Armory, Danish Jewish museum, stock exchange, and the nearby Royal Library were all shut down.
Mile 26
I walked into a garden running alongside the Inner Harbor out of curiosity. Relatively empty, I spotted a family still celebrating (or celebrating anew) the New Year with what resembled Jägermeister from tiny plastic shot glasses and a picnic.
Further along, I saw a family of five with garbage bags and construction gloves, cleaning up burned out boxes from fireworks, broken bottles, and plastic cups strewn across the garden’s fountain.
Mile 0
Shit, I was running late to the train, time to run.
Mile 0.7
Shit, my train got cancelled (thanks Thameslink). Would this trip even happen?
Mile 10
On the second morning I wandered looking for bakeries that were open, until I finally found one along my way to Christianborg Palace. I picked up a hearty roll crusted in poppy seeds, and smothered in butter and with a slice of thoroughly aged Gouda. I was told it was incredibly Danish — all I could contend for a fact though was that it was tasty and smelly.
Mile 15
Headed out towards Frederik’s Church, I was waylaid by the sound of a marching band. I followed the sound past the Royal Danish Theatre and caught up with the marching band which turned out to be the Danish Army’s Royal Life Guard. I followed alongside listening to the traditional Danish military tunes all the way to Amalienborg Palace, where a crowd waited for us. Despite my late arrival, my appearance together with the Guard somehow afforded me a great position in the crowd. As we settled in, I noticed that we were actually just a block away from Frederik’s Church! I couldn’t have asked for a better escort.
After about an hour of music and watching the changing of the guard (during which time I realized that clapping with gloved hands is incredibly underwhelming, even with a crowd over a thousand-strong), I ventured towards Frederik’s Church.
The church itself is huge, a large Danish marble (which was used instead of the better Norwegian marble due to budget cuts), a 31m copper dome — the biggest in Scandanavia — and plenty of gilding. Inside, the dome made for a feeling that the church was expansive as a cavern, though admittedly much better lit.
I found this a great place to relax after a few hours of standing. With the exception of my spontaneously and uncontrollably shushing an Italian couple who, after their son put up resistance for whatever they had planned, started bickering between themselves, I found the silence very comforting.
Mile 3
From the Round Tower, I went to The Church of Our Lady AKA the Copenhagen Cathedral, arriving just before the morning mass. I was pleasantly surprised by how bright and stoically the existing Cathedral had been decorated; the modern architecture had no side-chapels that I was accustomed to touring in most medieval churches and cathedrals, and no stained glass was to be seen. The lucent white gallery was adorned with equally white statues of the Apostles; the only color was in the form of two tall pines from the recently passed Christmas and the gilding from the altar.
Singing for the morning mass began and after listening to a single hymn (whether it was in Latin or in Danish I could not say), I left the Cathedral towards the museum district.
Mile 16
After Frederick’s Church I wandered north towards the Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK) and Rosenborg Castle. I heard the brief din of a bagpipe, but after the Royal Guard’s playing I couldn’t be bothered to investigate. Unceremoniously both the SMK and Rosenborg were closed, but I glimpsed upon their façades and mentally checked a box anyways — for the effort. I headed back to the apartment to prep for NYE.
Earplugs in. Nap.
Mile 6
After much back and forth between closed-for-the-holiday TripAdvisor recommendations, I found the Kanal Caféen. I ordered an open-faced sandwich prototypical of a Danish lunch; this one was with cured pork belly — also supposed to be traditionally Danish. In accompaniment, I had akvavit (a traditional Scandanavian spirit flavored with caraway). It went surprisingly well with the rye bread sandwich.
The decor was cramped but cozy, warm, and full despite the late (3pm) lunch. The walls were covered in pictures of ships and scenes of Copenhagen, most of which were crooked.
Mile 28
Alongside a small Anglican church built in the late nineteenth century, I walked through a small park dedicated to Churchill. Mostly a green space, I couldn’t help but to contemplate the overwhelming weight of imperialism that the Nazi regime exhibited in Europe and the undeniable influence that being a Nazi protectorate would have inevitably exhibited upon the Danish culture had it not been rescued from their later-occupation by the remaining Allied forces. In contrast to the grand memorials in the city, I was almost taken aback by this relatively-minor display, though I let solemnity possess me as I walked into Kastellet.
I walked Kastellet’s star-shaped water-facing ramparts from the King’s Gate on one end to Norway’s Gate on the other. There I dismounted towards the Princess’s Bastion. The accompanying placard described how the modern memorial was commemorated the efforts of the Danes in global peace-keeping missions since 1948.
Walking alongside the memorial’s granite walls and coming upon its Eternal Flame, it struck me that I hadn’t seen a Tomb of the Unknown Soldier or a World War memorial anywhere in the city. It perplexed me, but I trudged onwards regardless.
After my trip, upon examining my photos, I came across two photos. One was the (I later found out) large and beautiful Søfartsmonumentet for the fallen of the Danish Merchant Navy Seamen during World War I, in which Denmark was neutral. The second photo is above, of a statue commemorating the Danish and Allied servicemen and women who fell during World War II. I have yet to find the name of the statue, and it’s location near the King’s Gate is unmarked even on Google Maps.
Mile 18
After a disappointing late lunch (which is better memorialized in a bad Yelp review), I was off to Tivoli Gardens, the Christmas Market meets carnival which is the world’s oldest operating amusement park and that quickly became the highlight of the trip. After an hour or so of wandering around and exploring the expansive park, drinking in the lights and laughter, I jumped in.
Time melted away in the face of hour after hour of swing rides, drop towers, bumper cars (a LOT of bumper cars), and other attractions with only a quick stop for a giant cotton candy in between.
I finally broke for dinner late into the evening; it was perfect timing considering that many places hard started to close down. I welcomed the chance to warm up indoors though, knowing that it would still be a few chilly hours until midnight.
After dinner, I departed towards the lake to watch Tivoli’s evening fireworks, the capstone to their week-long Fireworks Festival. After over six hours in Tivoli, I left towards City Hall.
Mile 21
In the City Square I was greeted by a cacophony from endless amateur pyrotechnicians setting off an ceaseless litany of mail-order fireworks. Through the noise I couldn’t even tell when the New Year finally arrived, and a haze of smoke quickly settled upon the Square.
I meandered back towards the apartment, curiously eyeing and occasionally stopping to watch revelers the whole way.
Mile 36
Finally home. It’s raining in London also. Time for some tea.
