A day exploring San Antonio’s 300-year history
By Eduardo Meza-Roquebert
It takes just one stroll in downtown San Antonio to realize that everyone is there to see just one thing. The Alamo. The site of one of the most famous battles in United States history. Its gray walls stain all that is colorful on the creatively named Alamo Street. Inside, one giant room, and not much else.
One street down and a staircase away sits the River Walk, the second destination for most San Antonio tourists. Here, visitors can take in that distinct river smell as they push through hundreds of sweaty (and probably drunk) people while inches away from taking a dive.
Prepare for your dream day visiting the most popular spots in the city. The best of San Antonio awaits.
Or, don’t.
Not that there’s too much wrong with them. Any visitor to the Alamo City should take the time to see what all the fuss is about. But, there’s so much more of San Antonio to explore than just The Alamo.
The city has so much to offer to locals and tourists, so why not take a different route and explore the rich culture and real history that made San Antonio the city it is today.
Mission Concepción
One of the lesser-known missions, Mission Concepción is a great alternative to its more popular brother. Standing the test of time for over 250 years, the stone church once served as a religious center where missionaries convened with the indigenous population to create a new identity and culture. The limestone structure is lined with artwork from the era, carefully preserved and restored by the city.
According to the National Parks Service, only 1.1 million people visited the Missions Historic Park (a National Park that includes all Missions in San Antonio bar The Alamo) in 2023. Compare this to The Alamo, which gets nearly half-a-million more yearly visitors, it’s clear that the remaining four missions, including Mission Concepción, don’t get nearly as much love.
And there’s so much to take in at Mission Concepción. Sitting just south of downtown, the mission separates itself from the typical San Antonio vibe and offers a different kind of experience. In fact, that’s what makes the spot a favorite for some locals, like Gabriel Guardado.
“At the Alamo, there’s a ton of noise and it’s surrounded by city,” he says. “Here, the city isn’t all around you. You get to see the mission all by itself and take all of it in.”
La Villita
The oldest neighborhood in San Antonio, La Villita now serves as an arts district with shops owned by local artisans. The streets are chock full of history, dating back to the very early days of San Antonio. Since the 1700s, La Villita has been housing local artists with all sorts of talent.
With more than a dozen shops to visit, you can find just about anything. The River Art Group Gallery hosts hundreds of art pieces from more than 200 member artists, run by the sweetest ladies this side of the River Walk. The tight walls of Bird and Pear are full of home decor and games from all over, so long as you can squeeze through all the other patrons. There’s even a shop that just sells pieces made of copper, the Copper Gallery, with jewelry, vases, and even cooking supplies all made from the metal.
And everything is owned, created, and sold by local artists. Every cent spent is going right back into the community, which grows that distinct San Antonio culture.
San Fernando Cathedral
Just a 10 minute walk away from La Villita, San Fernando Cathedral is a great quick stop in San Antonio. This church, originally built nearly 300 years ago, served as a religious space for some of the first immigrants from Spain and was built to become the very heart of the city. Since then, it has served the people of San Antonio through mass, wedding and funeral services, and even events during Fiesta.
The main plaza where it sits is a great spot to just sit and take in its beauty while sipping on a drink from one of the many coffee stands surrounding. Once you’ve taken it all in, the chapel awaits.
The sanctuary itself is still in operation, with mass held every week and locals regularly use the space to pray. Statues of various religious figures are lined up along San Fernando’s pillars, all leading up to an amazing centerpiece depicting the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. Just remember to keep quiet, people are praying here.
Spanish Governor’s Palace
Right down the street is the Spanish Governor’s Palace, a building that once housed the multiple governors of Texas when it was still under Spanish and Mexican rule. This is where the settlement now known as the city of San Antonio first began. Once construction on the 300-year-old building was completed, 15 families immigrated from Spain and became the first residents of San Antonio, eventually growing and shaping the city into what it is today.
Visitors can walk through the rooms that the Spanish Governor lived in all those centuries ago. Each room is decorated with furnishings of the time, information about how they were used in the colonial era, and rather arrogant stamps of approval from architects that worked on the building.
A 20th century restoration has kept the palace intact and in great condition for everyone to enjoy.
Centro de Artes
Located in the Historic Market Square, the Centro de Artes is a museum dedicated to highlighting Hispanic artists in the area, with a focus on South Texas. The two-story artspace houses two rotating exhibits at a time, so every visit could be a fresh experience for everyone.
Right now, the first floor is dedicated to an exhibit titled “Millennial Loteria: The LatinXperience” by artists Mike Alfaro and Gerardo Guillén. The exhibit replaces some of the cards in the original game with modern jokes and renditions. Classics like El Catrin and La Pera are replaced with El Hipster and El NonGMO, a hilarious take on the original board game.
The second story features art from Efedefroy in an exhibit called “Permanencia Voluntaria,” which takes popular American pop culture figures and combines them with Mexican imagery and other familiar faces. You’d never think Latino superstars would fit so well onto Star Wars characters until you see this exhibit.
Historic Market Square
Originally gifted to the settlers of San Antonio by the King of Spain, the Historic Market Square has been used as an entertainment plaza for nearly three centuries. Today, hundreds of locals and tourists walk the streets every day, with so many shops to visit that you won’t have time to see it all.
Discover a wide range of souvenirs, from keychains that won’t have your name or traditional outfits hanging all around you. Or, take a breather at any of the restaurants located both in and outdoors.
Go at the right time and you might even get to hear some live music from a variety of local artists. Events are held every weekend from 10am-6pm, where you’ll also be able to enjoy snacks from local vendors and view artwork. Visiting the district is a great way to see firsthand how the culture in San Antonio has evolved over the past 300 years, from the early days of colonization to the people that inhabit the city today.
“I love how it’s very traditional,” says Dede Lopez, an employee at Los Arcos, a small shop in the Historic Market Square. “I honestly love the environment, the people that come and visit. I love meeting people from all over the world that come.”
But who am I to tell you where to go? The Alamo, Riverwalk, and the Botanical Gardens are all waiting for your visit just as much as these stops. Just, don’t blame me when you’re met with “the biggest disappointment in tourism history,” as a random man I overheard at The Alamo so eloquently put it.
So, next time you’re in town, skip the icons and take a deep dive into the history and culture of the city. You might just learn something new.
Except for the Spanish Governor’s Palace, admission to all of the above locations is free to the public. The Palace has an admission fee of $5 per person.
Mission Concepción is open from 9am — 5pm daily. Tours led by park rangers are available all day long.
While La Villita is free to walk through at all hours, shops are typically open from 10am-6pm daily.
The Spanish Governor’s Palace and San Fernando Cathedral are both open from 9am-5pm daily.
The Centro De Artes is open from 10:30am-5pm on weekdays and 12pm-5pm on weekends. The museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. To see what might be on display when you visit, click the link here.
