San Luis Potosí Walks you Through Mexico’s History
By Ana Paola Davila Chalita
I was born and raised in San Luis Potosí, México, and would always cringe when Hollywood portrayed my country with unpaved roads, lots of tequila, and sombreros. A place where spring breakers go to get wasted and shootings happen in every corner.
While some of that is true, the country is rich in its culture, and history is often overlooked.
As time has passed, the stereotype is changing and people are slowly understanding that México has more to offer than just tacos, and San Luis Potosí has its place contributing to that change.
Located in central Mexico, San Luis is in between two well-known tourist destinations: San Miguel de Allende, named the “World’s Best City” by Conde Nast Traveller in 2021, and busy, modern, México City. Both are a few hours away from my hometown, making it not only a good place for a layover, but also a destination on its own.
This is a city where the sun always comes out, at least for a little while, and where there is never a day too cold to walk.
“Many travelers used the city of San Luis to rest before continuing their journey,” David Vázquez, the president of El Colegio de San Luis, said. Even Benito Juarez, a renowned Mexican president who played a crucial role in defending indigenous rights, found “everything he needed” in the city while fighting for constitutional reform, choosing to stay for several months.
San Luis Potosi played a significant role in Mexican history, serving as the birthplace of the country’s revolution. It is said that Francisco I. Madero began the movement in the city before he was arrested and later escaped to San Antonio, Texas, where he finished drafting the plan that would become known as El Plan de San Luis.
Vázquez explained how the city was founded by the Spanish, but was surrounded by seven different indigenous ethnicities, each with its own identity, which later integrated the urban complex and are, still to this day, called Los Siete Barrios, or the seven neighborhoods.
Los Siete Barrios are a staple in the city, each having their own architectural personality visible even in each of their parishes.
There are around 86 parishes in San Luis, all of them hidden gems which serve as a statement to the significant influence of religion in town, but the city’s cathedral is the most imposing one.
Its façade has carvings and details adorning every inch of its surface honoring its baroque style, and the outside’s maximalism prepares the eye for the majestic interiors.
As I was walking downtown towards the cathedral with the eyes of a tourist in my own town, I was lucky. Mass was held in the cathedral and I got to hear the bells and the chorus singing.
“I’ve always loved the cathedral, even if I look at it every day,” Sonia Perez, who works at a store next to it, said.
As you visit each of the seven neighborhoods and the city’s downtown, it is easy to recognize the change in architecture, each having its own personality, which reflect their founders indigenous ancestors building their roots so many years before.
There is even an artisanal local beer called 7 Barrios, named after the seven neighborhoods, which pairs well with one of the local mezcales, Laguna Seca and Júrame, both of which have a smoky finish and taste even better when adding orange slices and chili powder.
Anyone producing the agave-based spirit inside the state’s perimeters can legally label their product as mezcal, and so San Luis isa good place to try the spirit, but always doing so with moderation.
Following a tragic incident in Matamoros where four Americans were kidnapped and two of them lost their lives, The U.S. Department of State has issued warnings. It is advisable to read the experts safety recommendations for guidance in light of this event.
Avoid walking alone in the streets, especially at night, and don’t stay out after midnight.
Always search the address of the place where you are staying beforehand, so you make sure it is located in a safe, tourist area. A clue for it is to look for restaurants and shopping centers near by.
There are plenty of good hotels in the city with a wide range of prices. It is better to stay in a hotel with a name you recognize than in a short-term rental with an unknown location.
“In downtown, at any time, we have surveillance personnel,” Manolo Balderas said, the general director of the municipal guard in San Luis, and he invites tourists to visit and enjoy what the city’s got to offer, like the diverse exhibits happening in the theater.
El Teatro de la Paz is the city’s theater, and it has held numerous spectacles of all kinds. It witnessed the first Mexican intellectual congress in 1901, which shaped the era of the Mexican revolution to make evident all of Porfirio Diaz government’s shortcomings.
In front of El Teatro de la paz, there is the Museo Nacional de la Máscara, showcasing an extensive collection of masks from Mexico and around the world. Tickets cost $20 pesos, which is basically a dollar.
The masks are interesting, but the inside of the museum, the building by itself, is the most impressive part. One of the most astonishing ones in the city.
The building used to be a mansion, which took four years to construct, and it was originally owned by a prominent landowner and miner of Catalan origin.
In 1903, through acquisition, the building became property of the government of San Luis.
The museum is in front of El Teatro de la Paz and a 10-minute walk from the cathedral, so taking a stroll downtown is easy and accessible.
One of the things I enjoy the most when walking downtown is buying treats from street vendors, as well as from well-known establishments such as La Frontera, a local chocolate company with a 125-year history.
Their chocolate frappe is so good I actually ended up finishing the whole thing, making it a satisfying indulgence, especially when walking in the hot weather.
Other traditional treats are the classic Mexican candy, which are often tamarind based and spicy, or the famous esquites, a corn-based snack with mayonnaise, cream, and lime.
During the day, wandering around and exploring museums is like immersing oneself in history and soaking up all the visuals. And at night, tasting the flavors of that same history seems like a natural and obvious choice.
My go-to for a casual, fun, night is Mexico de Frida, a restaurant designed to resemble the famous Frida Kahlo Museum in México City.
The restaurant is known for its classic dishes and lengthy, magazine-like menu, which features the famous Levanta Muertos hangover cure (a michelada with a secret sauce and shrimp.) The appetizers, such as the Frida y Diego, are a personal favorite, with a toy truck filled with breaded mushrooms and oysters served in a shot glass with sauce.
For a more upscale experience, Akopa, is a restaurant housed in a restored old building from the 1920’s. Akopa comes from acopa, which means “from above” in Nahuatl, has its own chocolatier and bakery, and serves artisan bread with chocolate butter as a starter. Need I say more?
Personal favorites are the octopus, the Yezminas (mole), and the filet with chocolate sauce.
Before calling it a night, I always remember Vázquez’s most unforgettable suggestion to simply look up at the sky
As he explains, “Raise your eyes and you will see,” he said, “there is no sky like the one in San Luis.”
IF YOU GO
Museums: The Regional Museum, which showcases the history and culture of the region, and the National Mask Museum, which features an impressive collection of masks from around the world.
Parque Tangamanga: A large urban park known for its beautiful gardens, recreational activities, and cultural events.
Local cuisine: Including enchiladas Potosinas, zacahuil (a type of tamale), and cecina (dried meat).
The most important meal of the day
For breakfast
El Profeta: A Mexican-Lebanese fusion, a strong coffee and the best date cake in the city.
Conxa: The chef’s sweet pastries take the classics and reinvents them completely. Strongly recommend the conchas, and omelet.
Refugio Tierra: Their chilaquiles Potosinos are the best way of trying the traditional enchiladas, which are small red tortillas filled with cheese. They also have one of the best views in the city. Reservations are encouraged.
Café Corta’o: One of the classic breakfast restaurants in San Luis, located in the heart of downtown. Its dishers are vast and classic.
WHERE TO STAY
