The Missing Ingredient for Hill Country Wineries? Snot.
By Mason R. Wenzel
Wine can taste like a lot of things. Red wine might have flavors of cherry, oak, or cinnamon. White wine can taste fruity or floral.
But all good wine tastes a little snotty.
This kind of snot makes people think that because a bottle of wine has the word “California” on it, it must be worth the $50 price tag. This snot makes those same people think that because a bottle of wine has the word “Texas” on it, it must be good for…cooking?
It’s the flavor of elitism.
Snot has worked against Texas wineries for a long time. Early vineyards in the state got by with sweet grape varietals like muscat, which grew well in the Texas climate.
But sweet wine doesn’t have the snot we’re all craving. That comes from fine wine grape varietals like cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay, which grow well in California.
Those have trouble growing in Texas. So, winemakers and lawmakers in the state have had to get creative.
Their creativity comes to head on a stretch of Highway 290 between Johnson City and Fredericksburg.
This section of Highway 290, also known as the Texas Wine Road, is home to nearly 100 wineries, with many more along nearby roads. These wineries belong to the Texas Hill Country American Viticulture Area, a U.S. government-designated grape-growing region.
Highway 290’s road is smooth, and it meanders through the Texas hills with a wave-like rise and fall that can put you to sleep.
Trees with sprawling, luscious branches reach out over the road and cast a welcome blanket of shade.
On the edges of the asphalt, intentionally rustic signs made of wood and metal spell out “Winery” or “Vineyard” and coax you toward stone-walled tasting rooms and graveled parking lots.
Many notable wineries have planted their roots along the Texas Wine Road. William Chris Vineyards, the 56th best vineyard in the world according to a list from World’s Best Vineyards, resides on Highway 290. Messina Hoff, the largest wine producer in Texas, has a vineyard on Highway 290.
So does the Texas Wine Collective, a collaboration between three wineries: Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery, and McPherson Cellars.
In the grand scope of the Texas wine industry, vineyards on the Texas Wine Road make a small contribution. Eighty percent of the state’s grapes come from the High Plains near Lubbock, according to a 2020 USDA report. Less favorable weather conditions, like heat and humidity, prevent Hill Country wineries from mass production.
That’s why snot has become such a prevalent ingredient for them.
Hill Country wineries deal in quality, not quantity, and make themselves a destination for visitors. According to Eater Austin, nearly 1.75 million tourists visit the region each year.
“Texas wines are just as good as California wines,” said Preston Garcia, a brand ambassador for the Texas Wine Collective who hails from Napa Valley. “They just have different varietals and weather.”
Their snot is different, too.
“Napa has a sophisticated stigma,” said Garcia. “Why can’t Texas be snotty, too?”
Part of what makes Texas wine special is the creativity of the state’s winemakers and lawmakers.
According to Garcia, a latitudinal line through Europe matches the Texas climate. Draw a line from northern Spain, through the south coast of France and to Tuscany in Italy, and you’ve found it.
Grapes like sangiovese from Italy, tempranillo from Spain, and petit verdot from France grow well in Texas.
In those countries, winemaking adheres to strict rules and regulations. California is the same way.
But in Texas? To hell with regulations.
Want a wine with grapes native to three different countries? You got it. Texas is just about the only place in the world where that can happen.
“Napa would never do that,” said Garcia. “This is what makes Texas wine unique.”
And the wine is as good as it gets in some instances. At the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, 12 Texas wines were awarded best grape varietal from California judges over the best wines California had to offer.
Five of the 12 come from vineyards on Highway 290.
“Texas has always struggled with trying to find its identity,” said Ron Saikowski, a native Texan and writer for the blog Wine Walk. “But we’ve learned to concentrate the essence of our grapes into wine through smaller production. And we’re starting to produce some awesome grapes. You have to have awesome grapes to have awesome wine.”
Preston Garcia has seen many visitors try Texas wine for the first time.
“Texans are snotty with their palates,” said Garcia. “But not with their ambiance.”
Vineyards on the Texas Wine Road have fostered a welcoming atmosphere. You can come as you are. And the folks behind the bar, like Garcia, are friendly and knowledgeable.
Wine carries an elegant reputation. Some people embrace the experience of looking into a glass, sticking their nose past the rim, and jotting down random adjectives like nutty or medium-bodied. Others would rather take a sip and pass the time with good conversation.
Texas Wine Road vineyards blend the craftsmanship of winemaking with the friendliness of Texas hospitality to make an experience that’s both refined and easy-going.
And the next time you’re cooking, consider using some Texas wine for your glass instead of your pan.
If You Go
For those looking to maximize their visit to the Texas Wine Road, consider using the 290 Wine Shuttle. The shuttle operates on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Day passes cost $39.99. The shuttle leaves from downtown Fredericksburg and lets you visit as many wineries as you’d like. To find more information, visit 290wineshuttle.com.
For Austinites looking to get a sense of the quality of Hill Country wines, Q2 Stadium is hosting the Texas Hill Country Wineries Austin Road Show on April 17, 2023.
The event will feature 29 wineries and more than 80 wines, as well as winemakers and vineyard managers. Tasting tickets are $75 per person, and includes wine, charcuterie, and a wine glass for you to keep. More information can be found at texaswinetrail.com.
